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Can a mod move this to the Engine/Tuning forum please, thanks.
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Setup is:

EJ8
Bone stock B18C with ARP head studs and a block guard
Garrett T3/t04e 60/.63
2.5" charge pipes
Tial 38mm
HKS SSQ bov
precision 350 hp FMIC
AEM fuel pressure regulator
Chipped P28 on Crome
full-race 3" DP to 2.5" exhaust
Vibrant flat black 2.5" muffler
Precision 1000 cc injectors
Current manifold: Peakboost ramhorn (cracking, warped headflange)
Upcoming manifold: Go-autoworks mini-ram (for better spool time with minimal power loss)
NGK plug wires
NGK platinum 7's gapped at 0.028

I currently have the ignition timing retarded by 1 degree. I run 93 octane at 10 PSI all day.

Even before the manifold started having issues, the car has never idled properly. I never had that issue when I was NA. I have seen people run similar injectors, and bigger injectors, who were able to get a stable idle and no detonation. From what I've searched, a timing retard of 1 degree is optimal for my setup, though I've never really been 100% positive? The car has been running very well, aside from leaning out due to recent manifold leaks which will be fixed within the next couple weeks (whenever the weather warms up a bit for a couple days).

My question is this; Is the only way to really find optimal and most reliable ignition timing application specific (meaning, should I just be adjusting and tuning as I adjust), or is it pretty much a universal spec per engine model and boost level?

I just want to get rid of the rough idle and minor detonation associated with it, as much as possible. I have seen many other turbo'd Hondas with similar setups that idle perfectly normal.

Sorry if my questions are noobish, but I'm not an expert.

 

you might want to have this moved to the Engine/Tuning forum

 

its hard to say without really tuning the car on the dyno...

id say from my past experience you should be somewhere around 20 degrees total timing give or take a little from the info you have stated

 

make sure u calibrate the dist to ecu timing
since your runing 10psi does boost cut work at 11psi?

 

I've never had that happen under normal driving conditions, as this setup has never exceeded 10 PSI. No boost creep at all. So I guess I don't really know if boost cut works.

Again, forgive the noobishness, but I am still learning myself after 3 years of building and driving a turbo'd Honda.

 

pulling 1 deg per psi will have nothing to do with your idle problems, it does not start to pull timing until you hit boost. Did you get the car tuned or are you on a basemap? Whats your afr at idle?

 

a lot of times with crome, i've noticed that the afr's at idle need to be in the 12:1 range to get it to idle properly. I'm not sure if this applies to your situation or not but just figured i'd toss it out there.

 

i've always found with 750cc+ injectors (minus the bosch units) you need to have it richer than stoic to idle properly.

 

I've been told that my rough idle is caused by my injectors pulsing to create a healthy idle considering my injectors are technically way bigger than what my setup requires. I don't know if that's true.

My AFRs, I don't know off the top of my head. It's been a while since I've looked at the data logs from the last tune I got. Once that new manifold goes on I'm getting another tune done anyway, I'll post the new numbers and updates when that happens to see if it changes anything.

The car was tuned about 1 hour on the dyno and another hour on the street, over three years ago.

 

Howzit man... Did you come ryt with that timing???

 

Zombie thread!

 

were your injectors unsat. or sat.?
i know this it kinda out of no where so don't bash on me.