uniquewheels08

Hi guy's this will be my first build on the car and I'm looking for some help on a few things. I have a 92' GS-R that spun a rod bearing about a year ago and I can now afford to start the rebuild and I figure I will do it right. I want to have a reliable daily driver/weekend warrior but the main thing is being able to keep the ac due to me living in Florida. I have decided instead of swap for another b series or ls-vtec I will build the original b-17. I know that I want to go turbo but i am not looking for insane numbers. My questions are what would be a good rod and piston setup, as well head work and my stock crank. I have been told before that integra type-r cams are great to run. Any help would be great. I know that I will probably be running hondata as well. let me know what you guys think.

CDecker0218

Ok, sorry to say, but the b17 block is one of the worst blocks to use IMO. The crank doesnt allow you to have many options for rods. Pretty much you will have to use Crowler rods. If I were you I would look at it this way.

1. If you don't want to make all that much power I would say just keep it stock block and get tuned for right around 300-350whp. Get a dual stage boost controller so you can switch between to different psi settings and have one set for say 300whp and have another one for your "higer boost" setting and use that for the track or if you come across someone on the highway. I had a stock block b17 last year and made 340whp and has no issues what so ever. So it can be done. 300+whp on the street is very fun.

2. If you plan to make more then 400+whp I would honestly take your b17 block out and hang it on your wall because its one of the rarest blocks you can find. Then try to find a bare b18c1 block and do a simple piston and rod motor. CP's Weisco, JE, are some great pistons. For rods there is Eagle, Pauter,and Manley (3 choices you DO NOT have for a b17a1 )

Some people are going to say just keep it but bottom line its up to YOU. Good luck and let us know what you deside on.

uniquewheels08

I would love to use the stock block, the reason for the build is I spun a rod bearing about a year ago and was going to start the rebuild. If i can keep it stock block and still be reliable then thats the way to go. Im working on pulling the motor now but kinda difficult with out any help so its going slow but once i get it out I will have to make sure the crank is not messed up from the rods as well as the cylinder walls. Thanks for the info and as the build continues i will post more as well as some pics.

Hybrid96EK

Interesting considering its the SAME BLOCK as a B16... Also, CrowLer doesn't make rods. Crower does however. They are by far superior in many ways to the common used Eagle rods also.

B17 is nothing more then a stroked B16. To say its not a good engine to use is just complete ignorance. It will make more power and more torque over a similar setup B16 and still have excellent durability as well. Invest in the better rods, get the same pistons you would need to for the B16 and have yourself a better all around setup.

BTW: The block isn't the "holy grail" this guy seems to think it is. The crank is what you want to protect. Those are not easy to come by. The block, you could just use any B16 block in its place.

CDecker0218

Thanks for the spell check. Didn't know you were Honda tech's teacher. For the power he is looking for I would think eagles would be better for his set up.

They may "be the same" but there not. If they were, it wouldn't be called a b17 now would it? its like saying a b17 is the same as a b18c1 because there both a "gsr motor"

And, Last time I checked there is just as many b17 blocks as cranks As I said before. ITS UP TO HIM. I myself would never use a b16 or b17 block. But hey this is not my car were talking about.....

uniquewheels08

I appreciate all the help, Im not looking for high hp just something that is a reliable yet has the power to go. This wont be my daily but would be nice to have that kind of feeling as to where if I wanted to I could.

rev-speed

you will use a b16 when u get smoke by one...........

slodel

CDecker0218

Thats fine. I know there are plently of people using b16's. I just chose to go with the strongest motor

Hybrid96EK

Thank you. Since I do like to help people learn as much as possible, I guess I am somewhat of a teacher. I've been doing this for a long time and I am sure some people could use the lessons I have had to learn the more difficult ways.

Last time you checked, there were just as many B17 cranks MANUFACTURED as blocks... But that doesn't mean that there are currently just as many cranks as blocks in existance. People spin rods and have general engine failures all the time. This changes the amount of parts in circulation considering the manufacture no longer produces them. Im sure you can understand this.

Saying a B18C is the same as a B17 would NOT be correct, so you won't see me making that statement. Since the B17 and the B16 blocks share the EXACT same casting and all with a B16, minus the engine stamp "B17", it is not incorrect to state that they are the same. They are interchangeable in every way, the rods, pistons and crank are the differences in the lower ends.

Hybrid96EK

If you are going to put aftermarket rods/pistons in the two engines.... what makes a B18C "stronger" then a B16? Could you please explain this to me? Technically the B16 has less cylinder side wall loading due to a superior rod/stroke ratio... this would make it more "ideal" for high rpm use in terms of durability...

I could be mistaken, but you strike me as someone who walked into a shop, had them build you a setup and now thinks he knows all there is to know about Honda engine building.

sanman000719

"superior rod/stroke ratio"

I have heard this before as well. I was told the b16 is the best square motor for us to build due to this fact. This to me means there is less to go wrong making it more reliable am I correct in assuming this?????????

CDecker0218

the main gurdel from the c1. Never said I knew everything but I deff know what it takes to build a car right

Hybrid96EK

The GIRDLE is there on many of the high rpm engines with "inferior" rod/stroke ratios to help reduce flex in the main caps at higher rpm. Since these are smaller displacement engines, you need to wind the living **** out of them to see the higher HP output. The absence of the girlde in the B16 doesn't make it any weaker then your B18C1. You will notice the GIRDLE on the D16 engines is even more stout then that of your B18C1. Is that an stronger engine based on your statements/assumptions? Not by any means.

wolve

go check out an f23 girdle

it's for sure the strongest engine

spoolin turbo s

i think this is a great motor to boost in stock form, it has the lowest compression of the VTEC motors of 9.7.......has the best bore 81 and stroke 81.4 making it the closest to square by far.

the tranny is a little weird, but the b17 has the revability of a b16 with a little more bottom end

b16 is 1595cc
b17 is 1678cc
so its 83cc bigger and the rods are shorter so the are harder to bend and break in stock form IMO
one big plus is they are super cheap out of junkyards
i think a stock boosted b17 will last for a long time with a known tuner and a really good tune keeping the wtq below 300

tq kills stock motors not whp IMHO and the amount of boost you run is dependent on how much boost it takes to make the numbers you and your tuner are comfortable with could be 20-25psi on a gt28rs or 7-10psi on a 35r if the iat's are equal the amount of boost doesn't matter
id like to here some more good honest info on the b17 from people who know what they are talking about!!

Also if someone could explain what mph you will be at in each gear at 8000 and 8500 rpms. How does this tranny compare to the y21? from what i've seen they are almost the same ratio's except for 2nd gear, and the b17 2nd gear is SUPER short i would definitely want to change out that gear if i was opening the tranny up

K7-1Ktrevor

b17s are generally pretty damn hard to find parts for. just saying.

uniquewheels08

They are getting harder to find parts for but most companies to make parts that are compatible with the b-17. Im going to have the motor out in the next 2 weeks where I can see if there is and damage from the spun bearing, then I will take the next step as to see what setup I should go with either stock pistons/rods or some cp/eagle then figure out where to go next. The 2nd gear is really quick in the tranny its over befor it began..lol Now another question, i want to keep my ac and power steering due to it being a fun daily/weekend warrior , where do i go as far as the turbo? any thoughts as well as manifolds. i have been looking at the love-fab mini me. Let me know what you guys think.

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

and b17 tranny is right on par with a hydro b16 trans as far as gear ratios go. the only difference in a b17 and b16 is the compression due to different pistons, 81.4mm stroke vs 77mm stroke and the b17 has slightly shorter rods than a b16. so the only problem I see you running into is if you snap a rod and want to do a oem rebuild....

wolve

it's just the rods that are a huge pain in the *** to find

but if i recall correct, the b17 and b16 big ends are identical, so i'd just run a cheap b16 rod and a piston with a shorter compression height (right around 28mm)

all in all cheaper then expensive crowers, better RS ratio, no exotic parts, etc.

wolve

or even cheaper and run a .065 cometic headgasket and run a normal b16 rod/piston combo, piston to head should still be more then .04 if the head is not milled much (qeunch pads are quite deep )