B17 turbo
It does complicate things a bit, but its the route i'd go. I guarantee i can find an LS block with LS/VTEC kit and Eagle rods for $500 or less, but to each their own. Furthermore, there's no need for aftermarket springs/retainers IMO. If you're preaching about being less complicated, that doesn't seem to fit the bill...
It does complicate things a bit, but its the route i'd go. I guarantee i can find an LS block with LS/VTEC kit and Eagle rods for $500 or less, but to each their own. Furthermore, there's no need for aftermarket springs/retainers IMO. If you're preaching about being less complicated, that doesn't seem to fit the bill...
GE ls/vtec kit= $250 (there are cheaper brands, but I personally wouldn't use them)
Thats $580 plus a good block, you will end up at or above $700, and it just complicates the build IMO.
You are correct that the stock springs and retainers will do.
IMO if you have the motor apart and you have the extra $300 to get springs and retainers, it is a good investment. Even if your not reving past 8500 rpm, they are stronger than stock and will ensure there is no valve float with higher hp numbers, but indeed the motor does not NEED them.
I guess i'm using prices that i've found in past setups and in setups for friends. I tend to not buy "new" parts, but rather scavenge still-new parts from failed setups that never reached fruition. Check the marketplace...you might stumble upon a deal. Earlier this year i bought an entire turbo setup (complete with GT35r, IC, injectors, bov, wg) and a GSR block, head, tranny, CP pistons and eagle rods, arp studs...the lot. All told, i spent $1500 for what should have cost over $4,000. It doesn't happen every day, but to me it was worth searching for.
Not to get too far off topic, but OP, you have options
Not to get too far off topic, but OP, you have options
ya the whole motor is getting pulled out right now, im about half way to getting this thing out, weather has been crappy here lots of rain and im working in my driveway atm. once the motor is out i can bring it in the shop at school. i will change springs and retainers while its all apart, its cheap enough and good insurance. its stupid not to change them kinda like doing a timing belt and not the waterpump
i want to keep the b17, if i was going to go to all the trouble of getting a new block and rods to do ls/v i would just as soon buy the crower stroker kit. another option is to just put in a b16 crank rods and pistons in my 17 block.
I disagree with going LS vtec, keep your B17 block, going LS vtec wont be any cheaper than the $700 rods, it will just complicate things more.
A set of forged pistons: $450
Forged rods: $700
Springs and retainers: $400
Stock GSR cams: $150
Go-autoworks or spoolin performance ramhorn manifold: $600
Precision entry line 3431 or 6031 turbo: $625
A set of forged pistons: $450
Forged rods: $700
Springs and retainers: $400
Stock GSR cams: $150
Go-autoworks or spoolin performance ramhorn manifold: $600
Precision entry line 3431 or 6031 turbo: $625
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From: colorado springs, co, albania
I have a a b17 block that I did the whole b16 switch to and it was pretty easy
B16 crank.. Traded parts for a whole b16 block and crank
B17 block
eagle rods (new but on failed build) 150
Supertech pistons (with rings) on sale 300
Just rebuilt the head with oem parts, milled... 200 ish
Theres also things like seals, headgasket, ARP head studs things of that nature that add up too, I just dont remember how much.
Under boost A b16 will out preform a C1 at 400whp.. Less stuff breaks too.. Unless your dead set on doing a b17 I would just go with the B16, price wise and avaliblity of parts.
Also Just stick with some OEM B18C1 cams, they are good till about 600whp
B16 crank.. Traded parts for a whole b16 block and crank
B17 block
eagle rods (new but on failed build) 150
Supertech pistons (with rings) on sale 300
Just rebuilt the head with oem parts, milled... 200 ish
Theres also things like seals, headgasket, ARP head studs things of that nature that add up too, I just dont remember how much.
Under boost A b16 will out preform a C1 at 400whp.. Less stuff breaks too.. Unless your dead set on doing a b17 I would just go with the B16, price wise and avaliblity of parts.
Also Just stick with some OEM B18C1 cams, they are good till about 600whp
as far as the rods go, what kind of power can i make on a stock rod? ( stock with arp hardware)? i may just run a stock rod and lower my hp goal, that way i can just run my 18g and not have to worry about getting a new one, even if i use the 18g is it worth building the head? that way i can push the rpm higher. the trans is an ls so revving high is probably not a bad thing, i do have an exedy clutch and fidanza flywheel
as far as the rods go, what kind of power can i make on a stock rod? ( stock with arp hardware)? i may just run a stock rod and lower my hp goal, that way i can just run my 18g and not have to worry about getting a new one, even if i use the 18g is it worth building the head? that way i can push the rpm higher. the trans is an ls so revving high is probably not a bad thing, i do have an exedy clutch and fidanza flywheel
Sounds like that's what I'm going to end up doing. I"ll get new pistons though so I can change the cr. while everything is apart I may as well change the bolts to arp and upgrade the valve train. Still might make it high compression and run water meth.
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From: colorado springs, co, albania
I heard something about shell gas stations will start carrying e85 sp it might not be a bad idea .
Also I might be putting my itr cams on if so i can sell you my00 Gsr cams for 100
Also I might be putting my itr cams on if so i can sell you my00 Gsr cams for 100
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tonyboosted
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Dec 21, 2009 03:45 AM






