Saifskyline

iTrader: (1)

I am going to purchase a go-autoworks turbo kit, its the 62mm pro kit. Ramhorn manifold etc

I am boosting a stock b16a in my jdm eg6, only want 300bhp at this stage...

Which turbo would be best to use:
Precision 6262
Precision 6266
Precision 5858
Precision 5557

I will in future forge the internals of the b16 so will want more power but at this time i want to aim for 300.


Has any one used those turbos? What was spool like etc.. And which turbo would you reccomend

rich7777

Go for the smallest possible turbo that will reach your end goal. I'd personally recommend a Garrett unit over Precision ...

rich7777

Also you don't need a ramhorn...

OneBadTurboCRV

Haha, in the future? Why don't you save your pennies kid, because forged rods and pistons are only around $800 more. Between trying to complete the partial turbo kit and other things like EMS, fueling, ect, $800 is nothing. 300 BHP is NOTHING, and that is a lot of money to spend on that type of kit for that power level. Lag will in fact be your friend. What are your end goals so we can actually help you, because right now it's looking pretty silly.

Also, Greg is extremely helpful, so why don't you just e-mail him with your questions or give him a call???

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

^^
+1

greg will be your best friend on getting the goals you want.

Saifskyline

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the replys, end goal is 400 bhp on the b16a with forged internals. Right now i only want to get it to 300. It's either top mount or the ramhorn, with the precision 5858 or 5557.
What you think, its going to be mainly street use, some use at strip

OneBadTurboCRV

Either way, just get his "Street Kit" with the Garrett GT2860RS upgrade and call it a day. This will support your power goals and have the most usable powerband. You can easily and safely do all of this on a completely stock engine aside from the added insurance of head studs. For those power levels a top mount and ramhorn are completely unecessary. Educate yourself.

da_dude

5557 get my vote.

vtechjunkie

iTrader: (2)

Maybe he wants the looks of a top mount manifold, but the power goals of a log. Woopty doo! Does that make him stupid, or " uneducated"? I think not, but use the smallest turbo necessary, correct. Be an *** about answering, dick-ish.

ef92b

Here's one motor I tuned way back Feb. this year on 95 pump.

B16
Supertech valve springs, retainers, GSR cams
PR3 IM *sucked at top end
stock throttle body
sleeved block, 81mm
CP 9:1
PTE 5557, .63
Neptune



turbo went capoooot after 4 months/ 9k miles. cruising at 3k rpms and there was a sudden wining sound coming from the engine bay. as usual, PTE's reasoning, oil supply issues we had replaced it since and the motor still runs healthy since day one till to date.

I would take N3va3vaSatisfi3d's and rich7777's advices by heart. my customer's just been nuts and skimps his money when I advised him earlier the same, to go with a Garret unit instead. Now that's double his time fixing things that should have been in place previously.

Saifskyline

iTrader: (1)

I prefer the looks and performance of the top mount/ ramhorn.

Yes i have heard about the issues with precision, but the soloution is to use an 'oil restrictor'.

Also precision units have the 'V band' exhaust outlet.. Where garrett 57 trim etc have 4 bolt, now here in the uk most turbo tuners have advised me to go for vband since its a more reliable and looks neater.


Which garrett turbo would you suggest which is t3, has a v band outlet and rated to 400-500hp.

I want to build something which is reliable, and have a turbo which isn't being pushed to its limits.

rich7777

The failures are a bit more in-depth than that. A oil restrictor is there just to ensure the turbo isn't seeing excessive oil pressure as Honda's tend to run quite high oil pressure compared to other platforms.

Don't listen to that "V band" BS. I have a bolted downpipe on mine and I'm more than happy with it. It may take a little longer to fit the downpipe but who cares really...

Saifskyline

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Rich, are you on civiclife?

rich7777

Yeah I am but I'm it's not my favorite forum to be honest. I got really put off after "Eg-greeny" had his car stolen. I even ended up ditching my build thread on there. It's annoying that people are starting to nick modified car's and break them over here in the UK.

shawty22

If its between those two turbos, i would go with the 5858 over the 5557. Ive done a lot of reading up and what ive seen is that the 5858 spools practically the same (mybe a teeny tiny bit more laggy) than the 5557. Plus with the 5858 youll have room to grow once you get the boost bug. I personally have the 5858 and i love it. Its on my 84mm gsr, making 560whp and 405ft at 20psi making full boost at 5k. Next year maxing that baby out But in the end its your decison.

Saifskyline

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I have made a decision and will be going with the 5858. Do you use an oil restrictor on yours?

OneBadTurboCRV

Oil restrictor size is determined by type of CHRA and engine oil pressure...

shawty22

Yes i do have an oil restrictor. -3 oil feed to .065 oil restrictor with a -10 return. Havent had a problem. Oil pressure at start up is 75.

Saifskyline

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the help guys, I have decided to go with the 62mm pro kit and 5858 turbo.

I will boost it to 300 for now. Then i will upgrade pistons, rods etc and go for 450+ hp.

I hope the boost bug doesnt get me too early lol

rich7777

What manifold ? You're waiting you money if its a "ramhorn". A log or mini ram would work much better for what you're after...

nealnanoHX

I was going to say the same thing rich777. LOL.

silverstreek81

Just out of curiousity.... why?

Later on he wants to be in the 400-500hp range, wouldn't it be more cost effective to buy now? And wouldn't a ramhorn be better for wastegate positioning?
I've got basically the same goal and setup, went with Garrett t3/t4 50 trim .63 a/r stg 3 wheel myself. I researched for months, maybe I didn't research enough or didn't quite understand what the compressor map was showing me (then again, I wasn't sure I even got the correct one seeing as I couldn't find one for a t3/t4 50 trim).
And I wouldn't try a miniram, too many people it seemed having issues with return line positioning. I sent my miniram back to Greg and got a ramhorn.

shawty22

It really depends on what he's going for. If its for street use, a mini ram would work out best for him. Short straight runners for a little quicker spool plus it'd be cheaper. It really all depends on what use it's going to be for.

OneBadTurboCRV

Problem with drain line position? I would call that installer error. Too many peopld bad mouth things on the Internet that they can't figure out or shouldn't even be touching in the first place. For every 100 that say something doesn't work, typically only 5-10 of them have even tried it. Too many mocking birds.

silverstreek81

I never said it didn't work, I said " I wouldn't try a miniram, too many people it seemed having issues with return line positioning."

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/another-mini-ram-shorty-sls-oil-retun-line-problem-help-greatly-appreciated-2188389/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/sls-mini-ram-sohc-users-please-help-2134230/
http://www.d-series.org/forums/force...n-problem.html

Shall i continue?
All I was getting at is that it seems to be a pain in the *** sometimes and that it might not be something the OP would want to deal with. I sure as hell didn't. Could I have made it work properly, sure. Have others made it work, i'm sure they have. Is it an installer error when the thing sits really low already or is that just the way it is and it's up to whomever to figure it out? If i'm wrong, please educate me.. I insist.

And now we're way off topic, sorry OP. I was just perched on a fence post ready to mock the other birds around here with my false information.