100% stock b16a. bosch 1000cc inj. Garrett t3/t4 57trim. precision 600hp fmic. tial 38mm WG. greddy bov. drag cast mani. cc stage4 clutch and fly wheel. dss 3.9 axles. gsr trans, liberty handcuff, spool. aem boost solenoid. sunoco 116 fuel. Tuned on Neptune by Cortney Green. final #'s were at 22psi.







This is a car i built for my little brother.

 

Very good numbers, that 57 trim puts up some pretty impressive numbers on b16s

 

Lol Thanks. My jackass brother 1-2-1 shifted and killed that motor right after making his best pass, 11.7@121.

 

 

Hows the spool up of the 6262

 

^ Ill let you know in a few months when I get my built and sleeved top mount 6262 finished and tuned.

 

Just tuned yesterday to, honestly, pretty dissappointing numbers.

Setup:
Darton sleeved stock bore B16A block
Eagle rods
9:1 CP pistons
Stock head
GSR cams set at 0,0
Victor X
69 mm throttle body
1000cc Rochester injectors
Precision SC6169 (.63 AR exh, .70 comp)
Payn mini-ram
3" downpipe
open exhaust with turn down
2.5 charge piping
huge eBay intercooler (~30 x 18 x 3)

best run was 290 whp/194 tq @ 18 psi with a blown throttle body gasket that we didn't notice. Basically at 7500, the curve levelled out and stopped making power. If you follow the curve, I should be around ~350 whp.

 

i would be disappointed with those numbers as well. But I would imagine that blown throttle body gasket would create a huge boost leak.

 

I sure hope that's what it was. I guess it was actually 17 psi and my datalogs show 17 psi so I don't know. Not sure exactly what the problem is. I'm going to install my Profec spec II and maybe look for some cams+valvetrain and see what I can do with that.

 

Fix that leak and strap it back on and go from there dude.

 

Your sensors may be reading 17 psi but your turbo is spinning faster to produce that psi because of the boost leak creating a serious reduction in efficiency.

I think cams and valvetrain will help your peak number quite a bit but sealing up any/all boost leaks will really improve your numbers by making your turbo run at peak efficiency. If you need any help you can pm me and Ill do what I can to help you out.

 

This makes sense. I didn't think about it like that. I've helicoiled the intake manifold threads that were stripped, cut and installed a new gasket, and run it around a bit. It's definitely running better but it sure takes a long time to spool which I definitely don't like. I'm thinking opening up those valves a bit more, poooossibly stepping my cold side charge piping to 2.25, and rerouting my hot side piping through the frame rail instead of up and over will help (93 Integra).

 

Or I'll let you know now...

It's a bit laggy. Once it gets going though, it's hard to stop. Its good though, acts like a stock all motor car until 5500ish and then its all hell from there on out.

 

Whoever tuned your car failed to do a boost leak check. Had he done that, he would have found the leak and got if fixed before it got put on the dyno and make the pulls for nothing..... Sounds like you got more leaks than just that throttle gasket. Do a boost leak check, find your leaks, get it fixed, and come back with 350-400 hp numbers!

 

It actually had two bolts that were stripped and the throttle body became loose. I have no idea where else it could leak from.

 

Are you using worm gear clamps or t bolt clamps on your charge piping? And your charge piping is fine for you setup there is no reason to step up. If your using worm gear clamps I highly recommend switching to some nice t bolt clamps to help with boost leaks.

With that being said, if your throttle body was as loose as you say it was then that could possibly account for the 100hp you could be missing? Don't know if you mentioned it but what kind of dyno were you on?

 

Where else? Intercooler, intercooler piping, inter cooler couplings, wastegate and/or blowoff valve, crack in the exhaust manifold, crack on the intake manifold you might not see. Do a boost leak check and make sure you have no leaks before you take it to dyno. You want effiency out of that turbo. Like the previous person said, yeah your readings show 17-18 but the turbo is pushing more psi's. No need to make the turbo push more air than what it needs to.....

 

BigZeke is 100% correct, basically anything on the outside of the main engine assembly(i.e. block/head) can be a potential boost leak. You can even get a leak from old/damaged injector o-rings and spark plugs.

 

If you have an o-ring injector leak, can you say possible fire lol!

 

Haha yes you can, I actually had a very minor boost leak that accounted for about .25 psi from my injector o-rings on my previous SRT-4

 

here is my b16 turbo setup: https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/my-1-6-stock-bottom-end-turbo-integra-build-2986320/

it's basically a stock B16A motor but with GSR pistons and cams, ITR intake, blox log manifold with a t3/60-1 running 14 lbs on 93 octane pump gas maxing out denso 720's

went 11.9@117 in my 2650lb 96 integra (full interior with me driving)

 

Not to mention, if it has been tuned with a boost leak, and you fix that boost leak, now all your boost comp stuff will be off... bye-bye engine :/

Start the car, and put a piece of sheet metal, or something similar that cant be sucked into the turbo, over the inlet of the turbo, and see if it dies. If it stays running, start searching for boost leaks. Brake clean or carb clean come in handy. Spray it around. you'll know if there is a leak.

 

I recommend soapy water, you don't wanna suck in brake cleaner.

 

I'll give you guys an update when I have some spare time. Thanks!

 

^^ good idea never thought about that befor...