<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg:R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what size intercooler piping are everyone running? what will be a good size for 350+hp? will it be better to run the intercooler piping from the t/b to the factor hole where the stock intake box goes or by the tranny like 94+integra do. this will be on a eg. </TD></TR></TABLE>im using 2.25in piping from turbo to intercooler and 2.5in from intercooler up to throttlebody.its also going by tranny not the airbox hole.

 

Just saw this thread...anyway my set-up is as follows:

Stock B16
GE Head Studs/OEM HG
BLOX Intake Manifold
Spoolin Performance Log Mani/2.5" DP/Dumptube
JRC 8" IC
Garrett 57 Trim T3/To4E .63 a/r
Spoolin Performance 2.5" IC Piping
Tial 38mm WG
Greddy Type RS BOV
RC 750's/Walbro 255/3 Bar Map/NepTune

Tuning date is Nov. 17th...can't wait!

I'm aiming for 300-325 WHP


Edit: The above set-up was SOLD in favor of a Full-Race Stage 1 kit...aiming for 400+ on semi-built 81.5mm B16 in the spring




Modified by JDM_EH2 at 10:28 PM 10/6/2005

 

you should hit that if you go over 10psi, i hit 290 and 200 tq at 9.5 psi with the stock intake manifold if you click the link i posted above

 

Thanks guys theres some great setups in here.

 

B16A2, sleeved, Eagle Rods, 8.5:1 pistons, lovefab SST, GT3071R, '99 Civic Si Coupe, full interior, A/C, DD

 

1988 Crx HF
B16a
Garrett T3/T04E 60 trim
One-Fab 3in downpipe
Walboro 255
stock injectors
12:1 FMU
Clutchmasters FX300
G-force TA Drag radials
MSD Digital SCI

no dyno or times yet. 1/4 mile times this weekend.


Modified by 88crxhfb16 at 5:16 AM 1/24/2006

 

what mani is that? i can't figure out what mani will fit in the ef bay with little fab'ing...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LoSt is BlaCk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what mani is that? i can't figure out what mani will fit in the ef bay with little fab'ing...</TD></TR></TABLE>who?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crxhfb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Turbo manifold. mani = manifold.

 

It looks like an Inline Pro manifold. I used to have one, it's a nice manifold.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Turbo manifold. mani = manifold. </TD></TR></TABLE> I meant who are U talkin to?

Its an Inline Pro. and it requires a half-sized radiator. and losing the stock hood latch. and probably cutting your crossmember(im running a Place Racing).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crxhfb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1988 Crx HF
B16a
Garrett T3/T04E 60 trim
One-Fab 3in downpipe
Walboro 255
stock injectors
12:1 FMU
Clutchmasters FX300
G-force TA Drag radials
MSD Digital SCI

no dyno or times yet. 1/4 mile times this weekend. do you think it will hit 12's?</TD></TR></TABLE>

FMU with no inline pump is a bad idea. You will run lean and it will hurt your motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

FMU with no inline pump is a bad idea. You will run lean and it will hurt your motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>its no where near running lean. its running way to rich right now. I got about 150 miles on the last tank of gas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crxhfb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its no where near running lean. its running way to rich right now. I got about 150 miles on the last tank of gas.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ouch! Thats like under 11 miles a gallon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by orangerex04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ouch! Thats like under 11 miles a gallon
</TD></TR></TABLE>need tuning really bad, is it possible to chip an odb0 ecu and run something like Chrome or Uber. and how hard is it to do????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crxhfb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">need tuning really bad, is it possible to chip an odb0 ecu and run something like Chrome or Uber. and how hard is it to do????</TD></TR></TABLE>

Crome and Uber are for OBD1. Turboedit is for OBD0. It's not hard to chip an ECU if you have any training and experience doing component-level work on PCB's.

http://www.turboedit.org/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crxhfb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who? </TD></TR></TABLE>

you...

thanks for the info

 

b16a darton sleeved, 81.5 bore,720cc injectors,crower rods, srp pistons, comp valve job, bigger valves, full race stage two 18 psi. 60-1 turbo 70-.63, bad spool up. 18 psi at 6500rpm. 720cc running 80% duty cycle, warlboro pump, jg intake 68 tb, hondata all in a carbon fiber 1988 crx.

 

Made 273whp 214tq at 12psi (No boost controller on dyno day)
same psi went 13.2 @109 2.1 60ft w/ BFG drag radials and no lsd

Turbo Setup:
Garrett T3/T4 60-trim
Home-made ramhorn style manifold
Johny Racecar Intercooler
Precision 880cc Inj
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
2" hot side ic piping 2.5"cold side
2 1/4 downpipe (going asap was laying around shop)
2 1/4 thermal catback (also going asap)
Tial 38mm
DSM BOV

Engine Setup:
B16a
CP 9:1 pistons
Eagle H-Beam rods
GSR Cams
Omni Power Titan. Ret. w/Dual springs
ARP Headstuds
Hondata S100

I'm going for 375-400whp on this setup w/ race gas + 20-22psi. I am switching to a 3" downpipe back setup and a JG edelbrock intake manifold. As well as a Quaife LSD
I killed my peg-leg.

 

Hows the reliability of a boosted B16

 

As long as tuning is right they are great. Mine is really good with Hondata. They have no stroke so they love the boost!

 

Yeah cuz i'm in school right now and I can't afford to have a down car. I just want 220 to 200whp daily driven and may be 250whp at the track. I know **** happens but I plan on doing everthing possible to keep it from happing using Hondizzy

 

Yeah that would be really reliable. You could easily just run a stock motor and be fine. You might want to do a thick headgasket just to be a little safe with some arp rod bolts and headstuds.


Modified by bootlegcivic at 6:17 PM 9/21/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bootlegcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah that would be really reliable. You could easily just run a stock motor and be fine. You might want to do a thick headgasket just to be a little safe with some arp rod bolts and headstuds.


Modified by bootlegcivic at 6:17 PM 9/21/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

i wouldnt worry to much about tearing apart the motor to just do a thicker head gasket and some rod bolts, maybe the head gasket; but plenty of people run high milage motors with stock head gaskets and boost them and have no problem. granted the rods and pistons are obviously the weakest part of the motor i dont think it would be worth the time to rip into the motor just to replace rod bolts, unless u have a few days when you have nothing better to do. or you could just wait till you have money and throw in rods and pistons later down the road. seems like a waste of time just to replace rod bolts expecially when you give youself the chance of over or under tightening the bolts and spinning a bearing down the road. JMO

 

Yeah I thought about doing rods and piston but funds just don't premit it.