I'm installing ARP head studs this weekend in my d16z6 and was wondering what method you guys used. Some people say follow arp's specifications while some say otherwise. Any tips are greatly appreaciated as I want to do this right the first time.
Thanks.

 

Anyway, use ARP's spec's for torque, and try to use a stretch gauge if possible.

 

Make sure you use the x pattern when torqing.

 

I dont know about anyone else but i roll with 75 ft. lbs. After the engine heat cycles and i check for leaks i go back in for 80. High power d's have a problem with headgaskets, people say its the head lifting but i belive its the sleeves shifting so who knows.

 

I just searched earlier today for this info - there's seriously a shitload of threads on it.

Basicly it comes down to the fact ARP Specs are about 75% of their max yeild. Due to variances, dirt, smaller studs on z6's - I would *not* go above 75ft. lbs. (arp moly lube & one short extension). FYI Earl on here says to go to 70, and not to retorque them higher or lower after heat cycling. Only to check them after the 1st cycle if you feel like it.

 

You do what ever you want to do... Ill do what has worked for me There is more than one way to skin a cat. But i know im not the only one that torques to 80 or so...

 

70lbs with moly lube with ARP's is probably equivalent to 80 lbs on oem head bolts lubed with oil.
You can always torque more but you risk warping your head. Do you really think that a head gasket will blow at 70 but not 75lbs? More isn't always better and in some cases, more could cause the head gasket TO blow.

 

I torqued mine to 70 with the ARP lube, and I managed to crack a cylinder by detonating without blowing the head gasket.