ARP head stud torque spec+steps
Finally dropped my head on and im ready to torque down the ARP head studs in sequence and steps. I go the sequence from Honda, whats the torque spec on a GSR motor?
Im thinking step1: 20ft-lbs
step2: 40 ft-lbs
step 3: 65 ft-lbs
Im thinking step1: 20ft-lbs
step2: 40 ft-lbs
step 3: 65 ft-lbs
Your arp studs should have come with instructions, I know mine did.... however I dont recall what the specs were and I am at work so I cant go look for my paper work. I think its on there website thou, ill look
I used 65ft lbs on mine (b18c1 block/b18c5 head - oem gasket)
I used probably at least 5 steps
1.) hand tight
2.) 15ftlbs
3.) 40ftlbs
4.) 65ftlbs
5.) check to make sure all click at 65 ftlbs.
No problems as of yet, I've been driving the car for a few months with no leaks.
I used probably at least 5 steps
1.) hand tight
2.) 15ftlbs
3.) 40ftlbs
4.) 65ftlbs
5.) check to make sure all click at 65 ftlbs.
No problems as of yet, I've been driving the car for a few months with no leaks.
Actually you might want to make your first step basically hand tight. You also may want to take that 65 ft. lbs and actually make it about 75 ft. lbs if you are boosted. 65 ft. lbs is basically stock, and I have seen motors in the past under boost lift the head.
But deffinately try to do it in like 2 steps if you can. As you start to get more ft. lbs on there, everytime you stop and start again that puts a lot of stress on the head studs. If you can get it going in one nice turning/tightening movement that is much better.
Jason
But deffinately try to do it in like 2 steps if you can. As you start to get more ft. lbs on there, everytime you stop and start again that puts a lot of stress on the head studs. If you can get it going in one nice turning/tightening movement that is much better.
Jason
Sean at ERL has told me 65ft. lbs for ARP studs when I called and asked (since they built the motor). He also told me that they use 70 ft. lbs. on their race car.
I had them torqued at 65 for about a year on 17psi and no problems at all. I know have them torqued at 70 for about 2 months and no problems again. It's your call...all it is is an educated guess after reviewing what others do.
I had them torqued at 65 for about a year on 17psi and no problems at all. I know have them torqued at 70 for about 2 months and no problems again. It's your call...all it is is an educated guess after reviewing what others do.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rtype11 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">choice of lube makes a huge difference, 10w30 vs ARP lube ARP told me to add 10lbs for using motor oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>
anyone using 10w30 with the ARP's is a retard. It comes with plenty of Moly lube and its there for a reason. I called ARP just to make sure I use it on both ends of the stud and the tech agreed.
anyone using 10w30 with the ARP's is a retard. It comes with plenty of Moly lube and its there for a reason. I called ARP just to make sure I use it on both ends of the stud and the tech agreed.
The studs come with at least 10 times as much lube as you need, if not more.
I did mine yesterday:
B18A1 block, B16A1 head, OEM LS Headgasket
20, 40, 58, 68 - ft-lb
All with my shitty click torque wrench.
I did mine yesterday:
B18A1 block, B16A1 head, OEM LS Headgasket
20, 40, 58, 68 - ft-lb
All with my shitty click torque wrench.
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