Alcohol Injection...
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 144
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From: minneapolis, MN, murka
hate to break this to you as well, but fuel injectors will not work with any sort of water mixture. they will rust solid in a matter of days. we've experimented with this on a number of other boards and we've gotten the same results each time..
as far as the washer pump, if you use 2 of them inline, you can get about 40psi out of them- which aactually is enough to provide decent atomization through an injector even with the boost pressure differential. problem is that a washer pump might not be compatible with hydrocarbon based fluids. my guess is that it would dissolve the impellers...
as far as the toluene/xylene idea, xylene has an octane of 117 so that would increse your effective octane the most.. i had though of using a dual chamber fuel rail, or joining 2 rails on the intake manifold with a valve between them thta dumps directly into the injectors. the valve would be controlled by a servo that uses the MAP signal as a reference. as boost pressure/MAP voltage goes up, the valve opens more giving you a higher concentration of whatever yuo're using as octane booster. i figured out that a 37% mix of toluene/gas is effectively 100 octane.
obviously, this would require a seperate fuel system, but that's no big deal. pumps can be had on ebay brand new for under $20.
the question is, though, do you need it? with proper AF control you most likely dont' need that sort of setup. i'm planning to use a water injection system for safety reasons as well, but the more complexity you add to the system, the bigger the chance for catastrophic failure.
i think water injection is probably the most effecitve anti-knock band-aid out there for the money..
as far as the washer pump, if you use 2 of them inline, you can get about 40psi out of them- which aactually is enough to provide decent atomization through an injector even with the boost pressure differential. problem is that a washer pump might not be compatible with hydrocarbon based fluids. my guess is that it would dissolve the impellers...
as far as the toluene/xylene idea, xylene has an octane of 117 so that would increse your effective octane the most.. i had though of using a dual chamber fuel rail, or joining 2 rails on the intake manifold with a valve between them thta dumps directly into the injectors. the valve would be controlled by a servo that uses the MAP signal as a reference. as boost pressure/MAP voltage goes up, the valve opens more giving you a higher concentration of whatever yuo're using as octane booster. i figured out that a 37% mix of toluene/gas is effectively 100 octane.
obviously, this would require a seperate fuel system, but that's no big deal. pumps can be had on ebay brand new for under $20.
the question is, though, do you need it? with proper AF control you most likely dont' need that sort of setup. i'm planning to use a water injection system for safety reasons as well, but the more complexity you add to the system, the bigger the chance for catastrophic failure.
i think water injection is probably the most effecitve anti-knock band-aid out there for the money..
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,116
Likes: 2
Re: (2.2Lcivic)
If you are truely interested in spraying alcohol make sure you go with ethyl alcohol. Its a grain alcohol. It has the highest energy per specific weight of any of the alcohol's. Not only will it cool the combustion chamber down tremendously, but you'll be making more power due to a higher pressure placed onto the piston by the alcohol burning.
As far as propane, its a compressed gas. All compressed gases are super cold. Inject it into the engine when you are boosting, your intake air density drops. Allowing for more power at the same psi level, and propane has an octane rating of around 110 I believe. I personally would just stick to home made race gas, the simplier the set-up on the street the less headaches in the end.
As far as propane, its a compressed gas. All compressed gases are super cold. Inject it into the engine when you are boosting, your intake air density drops. Allowing for more power at the same psi level, and propane has an octane rating of around 110 I believe. I personally would just stick to home made race gas, the simplier the set-up on the street the less headaches in the end.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,273
Likes: 0
From: Manchester, NH, USA
The misinformation in this thread is terrible.
Almost everything said here is wrong, except for what Filthy said (and not all of that was right).
1: The use of Alcohol/Water and Xylene/Toulene are totally different. Water injection is used with the sole intention of lowering the charge temperatures, in order to reduce the propensity for knock, which allows other changes (timing, A/F, boost) to be made in order to make more power. Xylene and Toulene are mixed with the fuel, in order to increase its octane rating. They are simply a poor man's race gas.
In order for a WI system to even begin to be effective, several conditions need to be satisfied. First, the mixture needs to be injected into the hot charge air, AFTER the turbo, and preferably after the intercooler. Second of all, the mixture has to be injected through specially designed nozzles, such that it is properly atomized. Third, the delta p across these nozzles has to be fairly large, you should try to keep it above 50 psi. That means that, at 15 psi of boost, you need at least 65 psi of water pressure, and more is always better.
You cannot use fuel injectors to inject water and alky, except for some select expensive ones that are designed with internals that will not rust.
Alcohol is certainly not an abrasive, and if this is used correctly, it will not cause internal damage. They only way it could would be if it washed all the oil from the cylinder walls, but if you have that great a volume of alcohol being injected as a liquid, then you have quite a few other things wrong. When injected in the proper ratio, with the right pump and nozzle(s), there will be no damage. In fact, when done right, this has a nice steam-cleaning effect. Note that this cleaning is due to the steam, not the dissolving properties of alcohol.
The proper ratio for injection is 1/4 of the total flow of the fuel injectors.
Water is much more effective than any alcohol, because it has four times the specific heat. Alcohol is used solely to keep the water from freezing, and occasionally to keep the system clean.
You cannot use windshield washer pumps, you cannot use any kind of cheap nozzle you cannot use fuel injectors.
I know I must have mised some things, just let me know what questions you have about material I did not cover, and I will do my best to answer them.
Almost everything said here is wrong, except for what Filthy said (and not all of that was right).
1: The use of Alcohol/Water and Xylene/Toulene are totally different. Water injection is used with the sole intention of lowering the charge temperatures, in order to reduce the propensity for knock, which allows other changes (timing, A/F, boost) to be made in order to make more power. Xylene and Toulene are mixed with the fuel, in order to increase its octane rating. They are simply a poor man's race gas.
In order for a WI system to even begin to be effective, several conditions need to be satisfied. First, the mixture needs to be injected into the hot charge air, AFTER the turbo, and preferably after the intercooler. Second of all, the mixture has to be injected through specially designed nozzles, such that it is properly atomized. Third, the delta p across these nozzles has to be fairly large, you should try to keep it above 50 psi. That means that, at 15 psi of boost, you need at least 65 psi of water pressure, and more is always better.
You cannot use fuel injectors to inject water and alky, except for some select expensive ones that are designed with internals that will not rust.
Alcohol is certainly not an abrasive, and if this is used correctly, it will not cause internal damage. They only way it could would be if it washed all the oil from the cylinder walls, but if you have that great a volume of alcohol being injected as a liquid, then you have quite a few other things wrong. When injected in the proper ratio, with the right pump and nozzle(s), there will be no damage. In fact, when done right, this has a nice steam-cleaning effect. Note that this cleaning is due to the steam, not the dissolving properties of alcohol.
The proper ratio for injection is 1/4 of the total flow of the fuel injectors.
Water is much more effective than any alcohol, because it has four times the specific heat. Alcohol is used solely to keep the water from freezing, and occasionally to keep the system clean.
You cannot use windshield washer pumps, you cannot use any kind of cheap nozzle you cannot use fuel injectors.
I know I must have mised some things, just let me know what questions you have about material I did not cover, and I will do my best to answer them.
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 922
Likes: 0
From: Lakeland, FL, U.S.
Re: (kpt4321)
I believe the ferio guys were the first to note that fuel injectors froze in about .2 seconds...
my alcoy/water injection kit uses a ford truck fuel pump, and general NOS type sprayer with .27 jet.
I bought the kit from my friend that ran 30psi on his stock block/head/cam buick that ran low/mid 11's on DRs. Funny b/c the resivor/tank thingy has a "turbo 6" or "jiffy lube" symbol on it, but I don't care, I'm getto like that..
My stock honda pump made like 75ish psi on the spary with my zex kit, I don't see why a ford truck fuel pump couldn't do it without any "water return line" like a fuel system has ( but of course its called a "fuel return system", not a "water return system" ).
It uses a hobbs switch.
Use the windsheild pump and wind sheild squirters to spray the IC.
my alcoy/water injection kit uses a ford truck fuel pump, and general NOS type sprayer with .27 jet.
I bought the kit from my friend that ran 30psi on his stock block/head/cam buick that ran low/mid 11's on DRs. Funny b/c the resivor/tank thingy has a "turbo 6" or "jiffy lube" symbol on it, but I don't care, I'm getto like that..
My stock honda pump made like 75ish psi on the spary with my zex kit, I don't see why a ford truck fuel pump couldn't do it without any "water return line" like a fuel system has ( but of course its called a "fuel return system", not a "water return system" ).
It uses a hobbs switch.
Use the windsheild pump and wind sheild squirters to spray the IC.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,178
Likes: 1
From: Portland, OR
Re: (kpt4321)
kpt4321...I agree with alot, but not all of that.
Fact of the matter is; You can place the water injection nozzle prior to the turbo. While it may not be as effective, this would allow you to use a ghetto-cheap pump. If you disagree and think it must be in the charge air, how can you explain this in terms of water injection on NA cars, since there is no charge air?
Also, ancient turbo systems (draw-through carbs) had the fuel injected prior to the turbo! and it seemed to work well enough to fly (literally) though obviously not optimal.
And also...you shouldn't tell people on here they can't do something, someone will prove you wrong
Fact of the matter is; You can place the water injection nozzle prior to the turbo. While it may not be as effective, this would allow you to use a ghetto-cheap pump. If you disagree and think it must be in the charge air, how can you explain this in terms of water injection on NA cars, since there is no charge air?
Also, ancient turbo systems (draw-through carbs) had the fuel injected prior to the turbo! and it seemed to work well enough to fly (literally) though obviously not optimal. And also...you shouldn't tell people on here they can't do something, someone will prove you wrong
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,720
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From: 90210, CA, usa
Re: (kpt4321)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kpt4321 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The misinformation in this thread is terrible.
Almost everything said here is wrong, except for what Filthy said
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Werd. I investigated running my old stockers for injecting alcohol/water, but quickly found out that it would not work on a street car. Actually there are some people that do it sucessfully, but they flush the system out with gasoline after every run to keep the injectors healthy. It would work ok in a dragster if you used it in this way. Eventually I just purchased some $3 brass jets, and a $45 shurflo 60psi pump. That's a price I can live with. The only difference with jets is theres no easy way to have progressive control.
Almost everything said here is wrong, except for what Filthy said
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Werd. I investigated running my old stockers for injecting alcohol/water, but quickly found out that it would not work on a street car. Actually there are some people that do it sucessfully, but they flush the system out with gasoline after every run to keep the injectors healthy. It would work ok in a dragster if you used it in this way. Eventually I just purchased some $3 brass jets, and a $45 shurflo 60psi pump. That's a price I can live with. The only difference with jets is theres no easy way to have progressive control.
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3
Likes: 1
From: banned NC
Re: (mos)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Werd. I investigated running my old stockers for injecting alcohol/water, but quickly found out that it would not work on a street car. Actually there are some people that do it sucessfully, but they flush the system out with gasoline after every run to keep the injectors healthy. It would work ok in a dragster if you used it in this way. Eventually I just purchased some $3 brass jets, and a $45 shurflo 60psi pump. That's a price I can live with. The only difference with jets is theres no easy way to have progressive control. </TD></TR></TABLE> a ghetto valve, lol
Werd. I investigated running my old stockers for injecting alcohol/water, but quickly found out that it would not work on a street car. Actually there are some people that do it sucessfully, but they flush the system out with gasoline after every run to keep the injectors healthy. It would work ok in a dragster if you used it in this way. Eventually I just purchased some $3 brass jets, and a $45 shurflo 60psi pump. That's a price I can live with. The only difference with jets is theres no easy way to have progressive control. </TD></TR></TABLE> a ghetto valve, lol
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,273
Likes: 0
From: Manchester, NH, USA
Re: (ion_four)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ion_four »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Fact of the matter is; You can place the water injection nozzle prior to the turbo. While it may not be as effective, this would allow you to use a ghetto-cheap pump. If you disagree and think it must be in the charge air, how can you explain this in terms of water injection on NA cars, since there is no charge air? Also, ancient turbo systems (draw-through carbs) had the fuel injected prior to the turbo! and it seemed to work well enough to fly (literally) though obviously not optimal.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, you can. However, I personally do not like to partake in ativites that are not optimal, I like to make things work the best they can.
If you inject the water prior to the turbo, then it will say in liquid form until after, and then it will vaporize. However, I do not like to have the water droplets beating on the compressor wheel (I have seen this cause damage) and I do not like to have the turbo wasting some of its energy trying to compress the water.
The injection of fuel and the injection of water are two VERY different concepts, so blow-through carbs and WI cannot be integrated into the same discussion. With such different intentions, what works ok for one, will not work as well for the other.
Also, note that even fuel was only injected (well, carb'd) before the turbo on very old setups. If injecting water before the turbo is good enough for you, then using a draw-through carb should be good enough too.
WI only works in some situations on NA cars. If a NA car was set up right, and drawing ambient air, the WI would be almost useless, except for perhaps a small amount of knock reduction within the chamber. Small. Very small.
What did I say people could not do? Obviously, they "can" do anything, but to do it successfully and actully have it WORK is a totally different proposition. To me, having something do what you wanted it to, and what it was supposed to do, is "doing" it. Just because you're squirting water out of a hole into the intake does not mean that you have a working WI system.
Fact of the matter is; You can place the water injection nozzle prior to the turbo. While it may not be as effective, this would allow you to use a ghetto-cheap pump. If you disagree and think it must be in the charge air, how can you explain this in terms of water injection on NA cars, since there is no charge air?
Also, ancient turbo systems (draw-through carbs) had the fuel injected prior to the turbo! and it seemed to work well enough to fly (literally) though obviously not optimal. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, you can. However, I personally do not like to partake in ativites that are not optimal, I like to make things work the best they can.
If you inject the water prior to the turbo, then it will say in liquid form until after, and then it will vaporize. However, I do not like to have the water droplets beating on the compressor wheel (I have seen this cause damage) and I do not like to have the turbo wasting some of its energy trying to compress the water.
The injection of fuel and the injection of water are two VERY different concepts, so blow-through carbs and WI cannot be integrated into the same discussion. With such different intentions, what works ok for one, will not work as well for the other.
Also, note that even fuel was only injected (well, carb'd) before the turbo on very old setups. If injecting water before the turbo is good enough for you, then using a draw-through carb should be good enough too.
WI only works in some situations on NA cars. If a NA car was set up right, and drawing ambient air, the WI would be almost useless, except for perhaps a small amount of knock reduction within the chamber. Small. Very small.
What did I say people could not do? Obviously, they "can" do anything, but to do it successfully and actully have it WORK is a totally different proposition. To me, having something do what you wanted it to, and what it was supposed to do, is "doing" it. Just because you're squirting water out of a hole into the intake does not mean that you have a working WI system.
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,966
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From: Todays date is, UK
Re: Alcohol Injection... (boosted hybrid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alcohol in general is abrasive liquid. Isopropyl alcohol is no exeption. Denatured ethanol, or methanol is a bit more abrasive. The guys that run alcohol for fuel are doing tear down/rebuilds all the time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not true. Methonal motors can live without needing to be rebuilt all the time.
Not true. Methonal motors can live without needing to be rebuilt all the time.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,810
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From: Yokohama, Japan, Japan
Re: Alcohol Injection... (boosted hybrid)
what kind of injectors are you guys using.....Are Lucas 440cc alright for this or it that too big? (sorry if this a stupid question)
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,273
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From: Manchester, NH, USA
Re: Alcohol Injection... (MiraiZ)
ARRRGGHHH!! Why did I post, if you were not going to read it!
There are 2 points that I ALREADY made:
1- You cannot use fuel injectors with water, unless you can find ones specificially designed for use with water, otherwise it will rust.
2- You want the water flow to equal 1/4 of the flow of fuel at WOT. That means that, if you have 4 fuel injectors, you want to inject as much water as one of those injectors injects fuel.
Grrr.
There are 2 points that I ALREADY made:
1- You cannot use fuel injectors with water, unless you can find ones specificially designed for use with water, otherwise it will rust.
2- You want the water flow to equal 1/4 of the flow of fuel at WOT. That means that, if you have 4 fuel injectors, you want to inject as much water as one of those injectors injects fuel.
Grrr.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX, USA
Re: Alcohol Injection... (kpt4321)
I'm not even going to act like I know much about this stuff. I do however know there are several MKIV Supra owners running meth injection kits. If anyone is interested in doing some more reading on these kits just follow the link.
http://www.supraforums.com/sho...29468
http://www.supraforums.com/sho...29468
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,799
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From: Suburbs, ILinoIS
Re: Alcohol Injection... (boosted hybrid)
i saw a guy last night at the dragstrip with a badass setup on his impala SS. He bought an aftermarket turbo kit and had the same turbo as me ( t3/t04b) . He was telling me about his alcohol injection setup. He pretty much just injected it straight into the intake to cool it off and he was saying that he can safely add 2 psi of boost out of it. He had a small resevoir bottle next to it , drilled a hole through the intake had a pressure gauge on it, and two other wires which im guessing were for ground and power to get a signal to turn it on from in the car 
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,720
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From: 90210, CA, usa
Re: (hybridvteceg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> a ghetto valve, lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ya ghetto I guess. Add a solenoid and a rpm/pressure activation, and its just as ghetto as spearco or aquamist, or some of the kit$ out there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">someone mentioned that Lucas can flow water....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Any injector can flow water, alcohol, methanol, ****, or kool aid. Just not for very long unless it is designed to resist corrosion. And corrosion resistant injectors are probably big bux yo.
If somebody has a source for some cheap ones, post it up yo. I'm all ears. IMO brass jets are just fabulous.
Ya ghetto I guess. Add a solenoid and a rpm/pressure activation, and its just as ghetto as spearco or aquamist, or some of the kit$ out there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">someone mentioned that Lucas can flow water....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Any injector can flow water, alcohol, methanol, ****, or kool aid. Just not for very long unless it is designed to resist corrosion. And corrosion resistant injectors are probably big bux yo.
If somebody has a source for some cheap ones, post it up yo. I'm all ears. IMO brass jets are just fabulous.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,810
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From: Yokohama, Japan, Japan
Re: (mos)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ya ghetto I guess. Add a solenoid and a rpm/pressure activation, and its just as ghetto as spearco or aquamist, or some of the kit$ out there.
Any injector can flow water, alcohol, methanol, ****, or kool aid. Just not for very long unless it is designed to resist corrosion. And corrosion resistant injectors are probably big bux yo.
If somebody has a source for some cheap ones, post it up yo. I'm all ears. IMO brass jets are just fabulous. </TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly my point...someone mention that luucas can flow water regularly without corrosion...
Ya ghetto I guess. Add a solenoid and a rpm/pressure activation, and its just as ghetto as spearco or aquamist, or some of the kit$ out there.
Any injector can flow water, alcohol, methanol, ****, or kool aid. Just not for very long unless it is designed to resist corrosion. And corrosion resistant injectors are probably big bux yo.
If somebody has a source for some cheap ones, post it up yo. I'm all ears. IMO brass jets are just fabulous. </TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly my point...someone mention that luucas can flow water regularly without corrosion...
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Easley, SC, USA
Re: Alcohol Injection... (ion_four)
http://home.ccci.org/Key_Infor...n.htm
dont use something that sprays a thick straight line, you want a fine mist that is constant, and according to that 2 windshield washer pumps will work.
just need proper pressure switches... think of the gain of using that to lower temp and raise octane... even on N/A
I dont see why a 50/50 mix of alcohol and water wont work well.
edit: also u could add a strong injector cleaner like seafoam to clean the system out if the alcohol wont, but I wouldnt even use normal injectors, u can buy tips that will spray a mist
dont use something that sprays a thick straight line, you want a fine mist that is constant, and according to that 2 windshield washer pumps will work.
just need proper pressure switches... think of the gain of using that to lower temp and raise octane... even on N/A
I dont see why a 50/50 mix of alcohol and water wont work well.
edit: also u could add a strong injector cleaner like seafoam to clean the system out if the alcohol wont, but I wouldnt even use normal injectors, u can buy tips that will spray a mist
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,116
Likes: 2
Re: Alcohol Injection... (GraphiteAccord)
When i said abrasive I meant that the nature of oil and alcohol together tends to dry out the metal surface. The abrasive aspect only comes from the fact that oil is repelled from a metal to metal surface and wearing is started. This is the same situation with the pumps used in the alcohol injection kits, they are specifically made to have alcohol run through them since the internal parts dont contain the need to have lubrication. As far as engines are concerned please show me that alcohol engines can last a long time, alcohol degrades any rubber/oil surface it comes in contact with over a period of time.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,273
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From: Manchester, NH, USA
GRR!! Again, I have already covered this.
Straight water is much more beneficial than alcohol, because water has 4 times the specific heat of alcohol. That means it will remove 4 times as much heat energy from the air as alky would.
You can't use to WW pumps. At least, not if you want to have an effective, viable WI system.
The wories about alcohol and engine damage are a bit silly. For one, IF you have a WI system that works as it should, the mix should vaporise as soon is it in injected. At that point, it is not going to come into contact or accumulate on anything that it could damage.
Second of all, there are not many things that it could damage anyway. The TB and intake manifold gaskets, maybe, those are really the only rubber things in that area...
Lots of people run this on the street and do not have to rebuild.
You shooting a fine mist into your motor, not hot-tanking it.
Also, you seem to be forgetting that GASOLINE will disolve many things, it is actually a very strong solvent. You are injecting 4 times as much gasoline as you are water, and the gasoline also happens to be on ALL THE TIME. For some reason, I do not see people rebuilding motors all the time because they used gas.
Straight water is much more beneficial than alcohol, because water has 4 times the specific heat of alcohol. That means it will remove 4 times as much heat energy from the air as alky would.
You can't use to WW pumps. At least, not if you want to have an effective, viable WI system.
The wories about alcohol and engine damage are a bit silly. For one, IF you have a WI system that works as it should, the mix should vaporise as soon is it in injected. At that point, it is not going to come into contact or accumulate on anything that it could damage.
Second of all, there are not many things that it could damage anyway. The TB and intake manifold gaskets, maybe, those are really the only rubber things in that area...
Lots of people run this on the street and do not have to rebuild.
You shooting a fine mist into your motor, not hot-tanking it.
Also, you seem to be forgetting that GASOLINE will disolve many things, it is actually a very strong solvent. You are injecting 4 times as much gasoline as you are water, and the gasoline also happens to be on ALL THE TIME. For some reason, I do not see people rebuilding motors all the time because they used gas.