donaldb128

ok this is my first built car i got it with alot of work already done to it the guy i got it from got it with work already done put some money in it then sold it to me so i worry about parts he says are in it not being true or him not knowing because he wasent given a complete parts list so he told me its a 96 civic with a b18b1 ls vtec fully built.. arp head studs, acl bearings, wiseco pistons, eagle h-beam rods,Supertech valve springs and retainers(not true chanced valve cover mechanic said its stock which i dont know how its still running good having a rev limit of 10.5k, CX Racing ball bearing anti-surge GT3076 turbo, 44mm wastegate 450cc injectors skunk 2 intake manifold, godspeed 3.5" FMIC, 3" turbo back exhaust, Walboro 255lph fuel pump, "The car made 401whp @ 15psi on 93 octane. Currently the boost is set at a conservative 13psi making 384. it can handle a lot more boost but I've always kept it toned down for reliability. Also the injectors that are currently on the car limit it to 400hp" these are his words from the car add.. so added a water methanol kit im about to install some B.C. stage 2 turbo vtec cams valve spring and retainers. and i got some R.C. 1000cc injectors that i will put on when i get it returned in the next 2 weeks. here is where im really scared he said its fully built but i did not see anything about sleeves being installed and my mechanic that helps me says we will be able to crank it up to 650 700hp if not more and im worried the block will explode from that ,much boost is there a way to look from pulling the oil pan or something or what can this motor handle i just need advice on this

Chance EG

Do an oil change. After you drain the oil, take off the pan and check the rods. See if they're stock or forged. Shine a flashlight and see if you can determine what the underside of the piston is. I'm willing to wager you got sold a bunch of BS.

Also RC technology is long outdated. ID/Bosch is what people should be using now.

Autoworks

^^

I also somehow doubt it is a sleeved block (going by the parts list). Also pull the valve cover, look at the head stud and springs.

donaldb128

well we put a camera in through the spark plug and could at least see that the pistons are aftermarket but as to what compression have no idea

2x0

Sounds a lot like what I got sold with my CRX.

Just be careful and check/confirm everything physically that you can. You do not need to take apart the engine to do this, but like Chance said you can check out the internals with the pan off.

I would run a compression and leakdown test, have injectors flowed, do a complete tune up etc. Make sure that everything is running right before you go trying to make more power. Check fuel pressure and timing.

I also would not go above 400whp with stock sleeves.

donaldb128

yes 2x0 thats about all ive done with this car since i got it some things were done good while some corners they cut really make me worry i put in 1320 solid mounts cus i had to much movement in the inovative ones it came with and they had welded the drivers side in b/c it didnt line up with the bolt holes b/c they tried to use the d series metal one that is between the mount and engine timing belt and i got a new gates racing timing belt water pump needed cam seals ive just been trying to make it right and safe i understand you only get 30k miles or so on built engines or they just dont last as long but i want to get every mile i can out of it before i have to rebuild it. i will take the oil pan off this weekend and see if i can get a decent look up in the block. another thing that worries me when i got it the guy had replaced alot of the engine seals, new piston rings, head gasket and new manifold and turbo with like 500mi on them the old one had the shaft go out and beat it all up..but im wondering why or what happened that made him do new rings b/c if it was high mileage why not do the main bearings ur already there and the other stuff to get it rebuilt for another 30k or so or i do get alot of fuel in the oil it turns 4k brown after 200 miles and you can smell the gas in it its real rich plugs are black. my mechanic says its because the injectors are maxed and the tune on it, and it will stop when i change them and re tune it right but my catch can is not working either that dosent help its situation much but at cold start idle its in the 70lbs driving puts it low 80s once its warmed up it takes about 20 sec for the idle to calm down fully at a light or stop but its say 900rpm and oil is around 17lbs cursing around its 30s and 40s depending on speed if i get into it and it spools up it will go right up into the 60s and i run that castrol syntec black bottle 10w 30 and for the compression and leakdown test what numbers should i look for. im sure the info is on here somewhere but being able to talk to honda guys about it helps me understand better i have head so much stuff i just dont get alot of it. plus i can tell my mechanic hes wrong we are at odds on the new tune im trying to tell him if its not sleeved and we crank it up to 30lbs you are going to blow my block apart but he says ive seen tons of stock blocks at 6 to 700 that lasted a long time hes had a few hondas nothing at my power he just finished his sti that will be over 700hp and i jus need advice so i can do my best to avoid blowing it up. i know this is a huge reply i just want to give the full picture so maybe someone will see something i missed or be able to tell me why its the way it is. dont get me wrong it runs great 98% of the time i put around negative to 0 on the boost gauge but when i get into it and race it takes off like a raped ape i call it the blue beast

93h2beg

There really is no way to say this with out sounding like a d!ck so I won't even try.

Please use some punctuation and spread out your words into sentences and paragraphs. I only say this because it is a bit hard to read all squished together like it is.

I worked 16 hours today and I cannot finish reading what you have written.