Advice needed: Cam Setup-- Engine builders chime in
Im just finishing up my ls/vtec build setup for nitrous. I originally had the engine setup with stock pistons for an all motor build, and used an oem 3 layer head gasket. I degreed the cams when I first put it together. Plans for the engine changed a little, decided to go to forged pistons, eagle rods and a big nitrous shot.
Now to get the compression I want, I used a 2 layer headgasket. I know this changes the cam timing a bit, but my issue is I borrowed the equiptment to degree the cams the first time. I just need the engine to be runable. Doesnt need to be driveable, I just need to get other **** done on the chassis, in the meantime, setup some wiring and electronics.
Right now, with the cams where they would be on TDC, the TDC mark on the crank is about 1/8" past the TDC line on the timing cover.
I think if I rotate the cams towards the front of the motor 1* at a time on both till they are close to having everything where it should be, that I can at least start the engine and finish everything else that needs to be done while I wait for the weather to turn so I can get the tools I need to do it right.
I already plan to take the cams back out to check the headstuds after a heatcycle on the motor. So I will degree the cams before I drive it or have it tuned at all.

Now to get the compression I want, I used a 2 layer headgasket. I know this changes the cam timing a bit, but my issue is I borrowed the equiptment to degree the cams the first time. I just need the engine to be runable. Doesnt need to be driveable, I just need to get other **** done on the chassis, in the meantime, setup some wiring and electronics.
Right now, with the cams where they would be on TDC, the TDC mark on the crank is about 1/8" past the TDC line on the timing cover.
I think if I rotate the cams towards the front of the motor 1* at a time on both till they are close to having everything where it should be, that I can at least start the engine and finish everything else that needs to be done while I wait for the weather to turn so I can get the tools I need to do it right.
I already plan to take the cams back out to check the headstuds after a heatcycle on the motor. So I will degree the cams before I drive it or have it tuned at all.

Last edited by wreckeddc4; Jan 17, 2012 at 05:44 PM. Reason: add pix
That looks out to me. Pull the harmonic damper off and check how its lined up against the oil pump and cams. You need to set the cambelt up correctly before anything.
First question I have is what cams are you running that would require you to degree them in? You'd have to remove .040" from the head before you'd need to correct cam timing 1 degree, you only removed .010" so no correction is needed. If your going to tune your cams on the dyno, you really don't need to worry about deferring unless you're running something like the pro series cams.
Trending Topics
First question I have is what cams are you running that would require you to degree them in? You'd have to remove .040" from the head before you'd need to correct cam timing 1 degree, you only removed .010" so no correction is needed. If your going to tune your cams on the dyno, you really don't need to worry about deferring unless you're running something like the pro series cams.
I'm using a blox tuner stg 2 cam, I know it's typically a drop in cam, but when I used them before, I degreed them to the specs they came with, and they made great power with my NA setup.
It's hard to see in the pic but they are both advanced. I forget the actual numbers off the top of my head. +6ex +3intake but I can confirm after I get home.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TegLK
Engine Machining & Assembly
4
Mar 7, 2018 07:30 PM
Listerofsmeg
Forced Induction
5
Jan 16, 2012 06:50 AM
PinkMaggit
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
6
Mar 18, 2006 11:34 PM




