Vladglad

ill start off by saying my power goals and what i want to run on this y8 i wuild say 270-300whp i think that will be ideal for the y8 if any other suggestion i would love to hear them out
The block ive done some reading around here and on diffrent forums and threads and ive found this combo set up
http://realstreetperformance.com/Sho...nda-D16Y8.html
will this be a good bottom end set up ? if any one has anything else to say please dont hodld back lol
The head ive read some one said that the stock y8 head cand handle 300hp dont quote me on this just putting it out there
while reading diffrent build threads they usally keep the stock crank with the oil pump but i read that the oil pumps on the y8s are bad and tend to make you spin rods oh also the bearings
http://realstreetperformance.com/Sho...D16Y-D16Z.html
if anyone has a better place to buy them or anything else to run and now the trubo i was looking at
http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gostkit.html
thats the trubo set up i was looking at if anyone has a better choice please say so or cheaper and then the engine mangemnet ive read but cant get to understand they say get a p28 ecu and run y8 baser maps with a obdII to obdI conversion wiring harness and then get hondata s100 for the tune up he eh sorry if i sound so noob like and for the fuel walbro 255 fuel pump ?? not sure and some dsm 450 cc injectors ive read ima have to do soemthing to make them work well this is all i have i want to hear your thoughs and opinoins

chasis is a 1997 honda civic ex 2 door

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Alright, from the top.

That is a great piston and rod combo. Looking at it myself. There are some vendors in the marketplace here offering discounted prices on the same. Check that out. Also, someone may be selling those second hand but brand new in box (BNIB) so keep an eye out.

I think you should be good on the stock sleeves at that power level. Don't quote me.

I think you're head should be alright. You can't go wrong with a cam upgrade of some sort, I have no SOHC experience so look to someone else for advice on this.

The oil pumps or something down there is crap on the Y8 and Y7. The Z6 block is better IIRC. And that's the same as the A6 block. Maybe you can source a different block? I mean, you are replacing some of the bottom end so you could definitely get away with building a seperate block. Get some ARP rod bolts too. Always a good choice.

The go-autoworks kits are always great. Not sure on the turbo you had selected, which one did you have in mind? There are several options. The Shodan is a pro with turbo suggestions. But with 300 hp in mind, definitely get something that will be efficient at that power. Not too big or too small.

As far as the ECU goes, I suggest getting an OBD1 VTEC ECU. The P28 is one of those ECUs. Then get a OBD2 to OBD1 jumper harness, $40 on eBay for a generic one and it works perfectly. I'm using a OBD0 to OBD1 one right now. I would not suggest S100. That's old, right? I'd say go with NepTune. It's $400 or so, probably a couple bucks lower, and it's amazing. You can run a stock Y8 map on it.

For the fuel, a Walbro 255lp would be a great choice. $79 shipped in the market place all day. Easy replacement. For injectors the 450cc may work? I'm not sure, even at 300 whp I had at least 550cc injectors in mind. You'll be at the top of the 450cc range iirc.

You haven't mentioned the MAP sensor, so I will. Probably need to get a new one since the stock 1.5 bar map (11 PSI or so) won't really work if you are pushing a turbo towards the top of it's efficiency range. Motorolla, GM, ect all make 2 bar+ map sensors. .

You may need a new rad fan too. Depending how the kit is routed and such. I'd say get a slim fan with higher than stock flow rates. Brand of your choice.

There is a good article stickied at the top of the page, it will outline what else you need before you boost. I am probably forgetting everything needed.

Do you have a tuner in mind? I know a lot of people don't run Widebands on their cars, but I like to be able to visually see the AFRs because I'm paranoid. May be a worth while investment for you.

Vladglad

Oops forgot to mention the 3 bar map sensor.
The turbo specs are: turbotonics T3 super 60 .63 a/r
So the stock y8 head can handle 270ish Hp ?
I'm soorry but I have no clue about the Diffrent systems ex Neptune chrome hondata is lt like a speraye computer type of thing ? If you have any where that I can read up on it just give me the link or tell me where to look.
Also about the block you're saying get a z6 block with they y8 head ?
And like you siad get some 550 cc injectors ?would I need a block guard ? Also stage 2 clutch forgot to mention that. And is it worth getting the Lite fly wheel ?or it's not worth it.
If I missed some other important things please tell me! Thnx !

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Not sure about the Y8 head. Ask some of the SOHC guys.
NepTune is a good computer system. Check HRTuning's website. Just google NepTune RTP.
I was just suggesting something based off what I remember. I think the oiling if different. You could only need a crank. I don't really know.
550cc Injectors would be the minimum I'd use for 300 HP.
Block guards are usually worthless iirc
No need for a light flywheel on a boosted car.
I wouldn't get focused on the 'stage' of the clutch. Just check the torque rating and make sure it is above your goal.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

it isn't the oil pump so much as it's the crank

the y8 crank has only one oiling hole per journal as opposed to every other Honda crank (basically) that has two oiling holes per journal. this makes them notorious for killing bearings (my 100% stock y8 spun every bearing on high end synthetic 10w30)

getting a whole different block isn't needed, you can simply source a z6 crank that's in good condition, they are identical to the y8 crank except it has 2 oiling holes per journal.

you can't use a z6 pump because on the y8 the dipstick is on the pump, on the z6 it's in the block in the common Honda location.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

^Yes. That's what I meant. I knew there was something. Ignore my previous spit balling and just get a Z6 crank. I also 'forgot' about the dipstick crap. I've seen motors with 2 dipsticks before... what a headache.

I've seen several Y7/8 spin bearings in stock form. Also had a friend spin one at about 160 whp with his turbo build.

92cxyd

Yeah, I use a y8 block with a A6 crank and a ported (not shimmed) y8 oil pump in my Twincharge build, and it work flawlessly.

Vladglad

Ah yes I Remeber now about the dip sticks the z6 has it rigth in the middle of the block and as for the y8 it's of by the cam gears area.
Okay so your say throw that y8 crank away go get a z6 crank.
Becouse they are similar and the wiesco and the h eagle rods combo should be a good Combo with the z6 crank and y8 block.so would I have to use z6 rod bearings or y8 or they are the same due to it being similar. And would that complete the bottom end build or I missed something

Vladglad

Yes man I would know I spun a rod bearing in my y8 and I went and bougth a another healthy y8 78k miles of a 99 civic ex so that's why I'm asking about the build want to rehon it polish it and build it up for a turbo

Vladglad

You would recomand to port the y8 pump

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

A6 and Z6 blocks are identical. I know zip on the bearings though. I'd guess they are the same though since the cranks are the same minus the oiling upgrade. So your rods should be fine. Just make sure you use ARP rod bolts but the bottom end should be fine.

Vladglad

Alrigth sounds good ARP rod bolts I'll add that to the list

92cxyd

If you use a A6 crank make sure you get a 89 and up with the same pulley snout size, the older ones are 1mm smaller and you would have to use the older pulley.

Vladglad

okay gotcha so what i can get either a z6 or a6 isnt the a6 of the EFs SIs ??

92cxyd

Yes