IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,
its a long story am replacing my head gasket because of a leak and dont want to boost until i fix this problem....trying to figure things out! just let me know an alternative lube other than arp moly lube and 30w engine oil! the last time i used engine oil (20w) on my studs the gasket leaked at idle! so i wanted to know if i can use this lube instead: sorry guys i dont have it next me right now and cant remember its name (but thats exactly what i used during my engine assembly....apprently am overseas and chemicals/lubricants cant be shipped via plane)....can i use that same assembly lube on that picture on my stud thread/washer and nut to install my engine head? all i remember that it does say anti sieze and graphite on it as i remember!
what you guys think?

i even know a shop locally that sells Permatex products and would like recomendations on a lube from them or anyone else who makes good ones! and yea what should i torque my studs to with the lube recommened? 75 ft/lbs?

Tippyman

Use the moly lube that comes with the studs, and torque it to the specs given.

They don't recommend using motor oil, but if you do they have a different torque spec.

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

am trying to find an alternative for moly lube cause i dont have ANY and i did mention i cant ship this tuff via plane....i did my research on this long time ago and if i used moly lube i have to torque it to 70 ft/lbs (for my spec) and if i used 30w engine oil it woule be 80-85 ft/lbs, so since i dont have that lube NEITHER i can get it am looking for recommened brand moly lubes out there that i can look for locally!

any help guys?

EARLdaSQUIRREL

just soak the nuts in oil and tq to specs and you should be fine, also dont forget to redo the torque 500 miles later

SOHCD16y8

You can get 30W from any gas station. Also you live in CA, it cant be hard to find some ARP moly.

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

i have moved overseas now! what you guys think about the red Permatex grease? its thick from what i heard!


Modified by IntegraTypeR at 11:15 PM 3/27/2007

SOHCD16y8

Hmmm, I would just try and find some oil locally and soak in that.

IntegraTypeR

iTrader: (1)

ok am back after a while....here is what i did:

1- replaced my leaky gasket to a new OEM overbored gasket
2- bought some Moly lube from a known British company called Moly Slip and this lube is same looking lube used by ARP...this lube is used especially for head studs
3- cleaned the block and head with paint remover
4- checked surface of both head and block using a snap on straight edge and both were dead flat
5- removed head studs to make cleaning easier and put them back on hand tight
6-put the dowel pins back on and torque that thing in steps 23,45,65,80

the reason why i didnt torque it to 72 cause i wasnt using ARP special moly lube(since i dont have any and shipping chemical by plane is not allowed) so i decided to torque it 8ft/lbs more....anyway i start the car and the engine pulls 22 in/Hg (which great) and after 10 heat cycles i see no leak at the VTEC soleniod anymore, BUT am getting a hair line leak at my timing belt area
now am fed up from this leak and this is like my 2nd head gasket....all of this is at idle and i cant drive this car without knowing its leak free! what do you guys recommend me doing now? any hints? copper spray?

as an extra note: i did a compression test and i got:
1 = 180
2= 176
3= 185
4= 184

this is a fresh built engine and does the compression numbers look good? is there any chance a good compression engine would have a bad leak down test? i did try leak down test, but the shop i have my car at doesnt provide any more than 55psi of air pressure!