Hi turbo engine builders! My question is addressed to people who are actually in the engine assembly
My car EG-hatch, I want to make him a fast car with the ability to take part in races on the 1 \ 4 mile
At the moment, bought a lot of parts to build the motor and swap H22, in the term plan to buy a 35-40R or a similar analysis and use this to pressure of 28psi
Now for me it is important to build the engine and transmission to fix it
Would love to hear your opinion on crankshaft bearing clearance for the engine to 700 + hp and whether ACL calico if my goal 8000 rpm? What good Calico?
setup 95x89
darton mid
f22 crank-0.25mm : Испуганный:
crank bearing ??
SGI H-beam rods : Испуганный:
CP pistons CR 9.5:1
ARP studs
Cometic 0.030
head p13
hand porting
guides ferrea
valve oem
springs & riteiners Sk2
Sk2 pro1 cams

Appreciate your feedback on the rods ebay and crankshaft repair ?
manufacturer promised 1000 hp, 9000rpm, ARP 2000 bolts,4340 steel.
I decided to take a chance to check them at high power, some of you uses the rods? or am I crazy one


Thank you for your attention!

 

I am leary on the rods... however I have wanted to gain knowledge on them and how they are. 1000 hp just not true on there part. I would say 500 hp maybe. I am skeptical on anything more then that or comparing them to the 800 hp proven Eagles. Both H23V Turbo builds I have done been with Crower Rods.

Your oversize non Standard Crank worrys me too... would find a standard. Last build used just regular ACL bearings, This one was forced to use ACL Race which work... proven to 600hp H22. The coatings I wouldn't worry about.

Unless you have custom pistons your H22 pistons will be sticking out of the hole 20K. Not a big deal. This is how I can my last turbo H23V setup. 9-1 JE pistons. 500 hp 15 psi sc61. However you must get a 60K thick Cometic MLS Head Gasket for proper V2P clearance. Competic Part # C4252-060

Your final compression with 9.5-1 pistons will be 10-1 with piston sticking out of hole 20k. Which might be too much for you would go down to 9-1 or 8.5-1

Skunk2 pro series cam gears!

 

I understand that the test is not proven rods on the engine with the stroke is dangerous, but the rods are bought, if the steel quality, they have to work, to judge by this manufacturer katolog they produce a lot of products for different car, I think that it makes no sense for them to save on The material

I know of one example where h22 was 35,000 km, knee 0,25 510Nm & 470whp.then cranked rod bearing, the reasons unknown to me
Who can use the crankshaft 0.25? I want to understand what crankshaft bearing clearance works best at high loads, the OEM or larger, and how it depends on the engine oil?rods 141.75mm, custom pistons, combustion chamber brought 55сс, gasket 0.030, - this is the actual 9,5-1 cr
I will fathom v2p сlay, I just need to know "what should be the minimal distance?"I want to make 14psi on 98 octane, 28psi on C16

 

It is easier and cheaper to have piston stick out rather then custom rods and pistons. I would say 30k be proper distance to keep in mind. If you go the custom pistons route make sure you get a beefier wrist pin. I personally wouldn't mess with a non standard crank. That is me.

 

last time I talked to Castillos crankshaft, He was sayin the nitride on the cranks was only .004-.007" thick. removing anymore material than that will need to be renitrided. my 2.4l h is using h22 length rods with custom piston with pin location moved up.

 

Def. True

I am not a wiz but using h22 rod with wrist pin moved up that is quite a lot of amount and strength would concern me for turbo not NA

 

If I understand correctly, you want to say that there is a crankshaft nitride coating?
in the groove, it is deleted and must be sprayed again?
To be honestly, I've always believed that it is a myth

 

No one would say the view of crankshaft bearing clearance?, Or no one wants to take responsibility? Polutov really wanted this information, I simply take note of it, and will not be seen as the truth of last resort
i can check this from the manufacturers of bearings, but I think it would be better to hear by this particular crankshaft user

 

Yes the cranks are nitrided. Castillos can renitride it. I think it was "around" $130 if I remember correctly. Oil clearances for bearings, You could run .002" range and use brad penn 10w40 or 20w50 oil. P.s. If you don't get another crank, or renitride your crank, you're gonna be spinning bearings......

 

I have always been interested in the crank nitride thing, I understand its a hardened layer on the surface. The crank should not be touching the bearing at all, if it does there is a problem that no coating will stop. Nitride is not sprayed on the crank it is a process where the cranks are first put into a furnace for heating, at a determined temperature, amonia and nitrogen gas is introduced into the chamber and circulated all around the cranks and chamber. This heated gas reacts with the carbon on the surface of the crank making the surface hard.

Generally costs $200

 

Guys help me make the right choice for my purposes turbine 700 + whp street-drag!! Turbine market is huge, because of its inexperience I can `t decide, though most tend to buy Borg Warner s400 67mm,, if I'm not mistaken this is one of the few twin-scroll turbo
I think it will work perfectly on the dredge, but for me it is important how it works on the street "journal bearing"
Maybe I'm moving in the wrong direction and I need to take into consideration the smaller Precission turbo
Also I want to make with their hands turbo manifold, it is possible to use the blank with an internal diameter of 38 and 42mm, which one do you think would be best and how to use the length of the pipe? 2x38mm westgates?

 

No one can use 700+ for street/strip car. Too uncontrollable. I'd definaitely go smaller as you were saying with GT35R, GT3540S Journal bearing, Turbonetics GTK550, etc.

GET RID OF THAT CRANK PULLEY FROM OBX. Please just use the OEM one. That's too important to not use OEM on that component.