eggsxr

So i picked up a b16a2 for 350$ kid said it was running but had a skip to it when he pulled it out so w.e im rebuilding and plan on boosting it. Nothing crazy looking for 300-350whp but id like to build it to handle more if i decide i want more.

Few questions...

Do i need go plane the head, deck the block, and hone the cylinders? Or is it only needed if theres an issue?

Putting a forged bottom end in wiseco pistons, eagle rods, and prolly oem bearings (unless otherwise suggested) and maybe micro polish the crank while shes already out. Of what ive seen with the pistons they do not make one with the same CR as oem and im trying to keep the engine around there due to its gonna be a dd in the summer and in not boosting it till next winter. So should i hone it and get as close to 10:1 as possible?

Head work what should i use besides arp headstuds? Plan on putting titanium valve springs and such in i just need info on brands and parts i should get. And what brand head gasket?

Any other pointers and tips would be helpful and appreciated also any parts/brands you guys suggest,

Thanks!

ninesecrx

Since the engine is the bore will most likely be out of round. Since you are going to the effort to build it right with new parts I would hone the block to 81.5 and that way you can insure Its a 100% new block. You can still use the oem head gasket, they work great. As for your head parts many people have their own take on brands. We have been using and selling the Supertech brand for years but there are other good ones out there as well. Good luck with your build.

Schister66

Only plane the head/block if there is reason to (overheated typically). If they are flat, don't bother machining them down, but its worth having it checked out.

OEM bearings would be preferable, but ACLs are alright.

Compression - keep it around 10:1 or above. If you're running e85, you can bump that up even further.

Headwork - find a set of ITR cams and Supertech or Ferrera valvesprings/steel retainers. OEM Headgasket


Having said all that, for your power goal, building the engine is not necessary. A healthy B series will make 300-350whp all day long without issue, as long as its tuned and maintained properly.

eggsxr

Im building it so i know it will handle that and possibly even more if i decide to go that route later on dont want to pull and rebuild it again just to see 400whp lol. Thanks for the info though i started to pull it apart today to get started in a shopping list and ive seen to have found my self worried. I was taking the alternator off and noticed these cracks behind it on the block im thinking there just imperfections in the casting but i just want to make sure, i won't be tearing it bottom end apart until tomorrow hopefully (dont have bolts to put it on my engine stand -_-). But except for extreme carbon build up on the top of the pistons and bottom of the valves everything seems to be going good so far.

If i get ITR cams will i need it to be tuned to drive with them this summer before i boost it?

accordturb96

those arent cracks but cast marks like you say.

eggsxr

Sweet i was so worried, just my luck to pick a motor up for 350 and it be cracked or something lol

eggsxr

Just out of curiosity should i replace my valves or just clean them up and reuse them?

Should i go with supertech steel or titanium valve springs? I know above stated steel but its like 20$ more for titanium if there better ill go with those.

Will my motor need to be tunes to run the itr cams?

accordturb96

I never hurts to get new oem valves and have the seats cut. Bisimoto said you can run oem into the 500whp range. They even stopped selling the titanium valves. I used their springs in my F22.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

If you have the money sleeve it now and find the best tuner in your area and that block will last years

Me personally wouldve went ls vtec or gsr with ls crank for the tq

Stock valves are fine

Oem head gasket till 81.5mm is fine

eggsxr

Does it even need to be sleeved? The most id ever wanna push out of it is probably like 500whp

Are the engine gasket kits u find everywhere good? Could i just buy those and use a oem head gasket? Or should i get all oem?

Also how do i know if i should replace my oil pump? Or should i just do it anyways? If so oem or (insert brand here)?

Thanks a lot guys hopefully i can have everything im looking at within the next 3 months

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Take the pump off pop off the cover and check the gears( i forget the actual name) i usually check for wear on the flat sides from touching the housing then theres a specific specs between the teeth of the gear that it needs to be within. If that all looks fine pop off the check valve plug remove the spring and if that looks good and isn't broken or worn it should be good to go. Takes all of 30-60 minutes with the right tools

If you dont want to do any of that spend the 120 bucks on a new one. I usually check the ones off used motors and if they check out good i use them.

Order oem gaskets if you dont wana deal with chasing leaks.

As for sleeving its all about piece of mind. I myself havent sleeved a motor yet because i like to rebuild them and see what i can get away with. If i wanted to build a motor and drive it everyday and know i wont need to open it up for 20k miles then ill sleeve a motor.

Look into a css block guard its a few hundred cheaper than actual sleeves but they have an excellent success rate

eggsxr

Any suggestions on where to get it sleeved at? Going to look at prices and seeing if i want to get it done. Maybe ill build this block with stock sleeves get another and sleeve it if i want more and just swap my bottom end assembly over when i get there just replace bearings and rings, not to sure....

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

laskey racing is near me in ca


I have no idea where u live

eggsxr

I live in NY ill ship the block out if need be just have to figure costs and benefits lol, maybe with all this work ill just go with more than 300-350 lol

Schister66

Sleeving is going to cost $12-1500 roughly. CSS is ~$400 IIRC.

Either way gives you peace of mind, but obviously sleeving is the better way to go (albeit, the more expensive route)

With new iron ductile sleeves, you can choose the bore size (between 81-85mm) whereas CSS only supports the sleeve and utilizes the stock bore

eggsxr

Well i got her all torn apart and everything appears to be good. Cylinder walls seem good except the build up at the top, probably keep the stock 81mm bore and put new internals in.

Should i replace the journal bearings for the crank or just leave it alone?

How do i get the motor clean? It is covered in years of oil and gunk.

Heres some pics of what im working with

accordturb96

take it to a machine shop and have them hot tank it or use the parts washer

eggsxr

Do i have to remove the crank for them to do that?

m4xwellmurd3r

Yes, and you need to replace the main beaeings

eggsxr

Thanks.

Do i take one of those little honers you hook to a drill and scuff the walls up before i replace the pistons or do i just put them in? Ive seen it done that way just not sure if its the right way.

blackeg

someone needs to, whether it be you or a machine shop if you arent comfortable with doing it. before that and maybe before you get the pistons you need to check the bore to make sure its still circular and not ovaled. i also notice a small vertical scuff in the close up cylinder pic. its about halfway down and looks to be a centimeter long. if it catches your fingernail which it may it needs to be honed out.

have the machine shop check the deck surface make sure its not warped. if its all good it can be cleaned up with some grey scotchbrite pads then a white pad to smooth it over even more.

eggsxr

About to just have it honed to 81.5mm and call it a day

m4xwellmurd3r

You dont hone it to 81.5, you have a machine shop bore it, and you give them your 81.5mm pistons so they can hone it properly

Schister66

Quoted because this is important. Bring the pistons with you to the machine shop. That will ensure the proper P2W clearance

eggsxr

Yea i see that. Currently waiting on my gpa to talk to his friend to tell me the best place in my area to get it done at. They're machinists and the one guy builds drag cars so im assuming hed know if he doesnt already do it himself.

I should have the money to order pistons/rods (noticed a lot of places combo them for cheaper) mid January, hopefully that is...