Hello all, Just got a few questions, I have a 92 civic cx hatchback, B18B1 engine, JDM B16 cable trans, T25 turbo, 3 inch d-p to 2.5 inch HKS full cat back, test-pipe in place of cat, AEM wideband, AEM truboost, dsm bluetop injectors, blox FPR, HKS BOV and front mount inter cooler. Chipped P28 tuned to run everything necessary, Running 12psi strong no problems, was wondering if anyone knows a apx. HP rating, the nearest dyno is hours away and cost too much. also anyone played around with b20-v-tec turbo setup? because i can get a b20 bottom end and a b16 head for a great price, but i'm a bit skeptical.

 

Your hp depends on a lot of things...elevation, who tuned it or what basemap ur running...go to zealautowerks.com and they have a hp and compression calculator that is pretty rough but it'll give you a general number. I did it and it said at 1000ft. you're roughly around 235 to the wheels.

B20 blocks have thinner cylinder walls than the b18 blocks so they are more likely to crack if you run a lot of boost. If you do the b20, sleeve it and you'll have a beast for a block. Or just get a GSR block and do a poorman's type r and you won't have to worry about the sleeves.

 

Well thank you ryguy for that info, I wasn't aware of any site to calculate your hp like that. My car is also rust free seafoam green, florida car i picked up last year, it also has ARP head studs and a block guard, short shifter, brand new front rotors, pads and calipers, and will be getting a rear disc swap next weekend... i only say this is because it may be for sale shortly... anybody with intrest, PM me for pics n what not. and when i say the car is rust free, i mean rust free, no bondo, no b/s, car has never had bodywork or rust repairs... even behind the sideskirts is rust free, cleanest hatch i honestly have ever seen, thats why i picked it up. interior is also in great shape for a 92, and i also have a mint set of teg seats i am planning to install this weekend.

 

FYI the car is my daily driver in Binghamton NY

 

Did that answer all ur questions or did you have more?

 

pretty much answered them, the only other question i have is, i have a B18B1 head with "Manely" valve springs and retainers (actually have a smaller spring within the actual valve spring), and some type of upgrade valves (idk what brand or what material they are made from) but is it worth swapping the head onto my currently strong running B18? only to have the upgraded valves and springs? i love the car the way it is, but all my honda friends keep urging me to swap the heads. how much more durable and/or how much more power will this give me, enough to bare the 25 degree weather to swap them? because i lost the shop i was in when i built this car due to money problems... so i would be doing the swap in my driveway.

 

Swapping heads doesn't take much time, and it would be one less upgrade you would have to do down the road. Dual valve springs dont give your car more power. They just increase the spring constant of the total spring, making the spring stiffer. This would allow you to rev to higher rpms and help if you are gonna upgrade cams down the road when you have higher lift on ur cams. You don't want the valves to tay open too long so the stiffer springs will help them close faster. Here's a great discussion on all the technical parts of it.

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...g+Common+Topic


I would do the swap.