The absolute only reason for a break in period is if you installed a new clutch. The motor does not need a break in "period".
Top off the oil. Start it. Check for leaks. Set timing. Go out and make a couple runs jup to about 4000 rpm and let off gas by engine braking...do this a couple times. Then make a couple runs to 7k and repeat engine braking. Then make a WOT pass under whatever amount of boost the car is tuned safely for. Thanks it.

 

I'd wait for at least 1,000 as well. I did 1,500 for the hell of it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93LSivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The absolute only reason for a break in period is if you installed a new clutch.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not always true. I have a Clutch Net stage 2 six puck didnt not need a brake in.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93LSivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Top off the oil. Start it. Check for leaks. Set timing. Go out and make a couple runs jup to about 4000 rpm and let off gas by engine braking...do this a couple times. Then make a couple runs to 7k and repeat engine braking. Then make a WOT pass under whatever amount of boost the car is tuned safely for. Thanks it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I did 500 then put the turbo in and I haven't had any problems

 

i am runnign reguolar 5w-30 oil for break in... would you guys reccommend switching to 10w-30 full synthetic at 1000 miles when i am finished with break in or just staying with 5w-30 full synthetic??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nextelbuddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am running regular 5w-30 oil for break in... would you guys recommend switching to 10w-30 full synthetic at 1000 miles when i am finished with break in or just staying with 5w-30 full synthetic??</TD></TR></TABLE>

No you absolutely do not want to use regular engine oil for break-in. I always use a non-detergent oil, usually in a straight 30 or 50 weight. Our local supply store has the Kendall brand and I have used it successfully in every engine I built.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 631 Teggy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Boost helps rings seal </TD></TR></TABLE>

True...
Im am in betweener, Pressure does seat the rings
But i think its not a bad idea to put some miles on it to let the bearings get used to themselves.
Id say 300-500 is what im comfortable with.

 

Bearings dont get broken in either. If you need to break in bearings, than the motor isnt assembled properly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93LSivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No you absolutely do not want to use regular engine oil for break-in. I always use a non-detergent oil, usually in a straight 30 or 50 weight. Our local supply store has the Kendall brand and I have used it successfully in every engine I built.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well its too late for that. too many people have said regular non synthetic was fine for break in as long as it wasnt synthetic. (conventional oil) the motor is running fine. no one ever said to use non detergent oil when i first asked.

 

Yea, you'll be fine... I've never heard of anyone besides 93LSivic use a "non-detergent" oil, every motor we build gets broken in with the cheapest 10W30 we can find and we've never had a problem...

 

Ive always used non-detergent oil for break in. I guess I derived it from my domestic background.
Has a lot to do with the oil not having any type of bonding synthetics. Basically it will not fill the "rough" finish of a newly honed cylinder wall and gives the rings greater ability to seat with less time and less chance of glazing.
This is break-in oil. Dont use it after the engine is broken in of course.

 

i just let them sit in the driveway at 3000rpm to 3500rpm for an hour or so....... has worked everytime so far...... with any kind of motor..... just did a blown 383, let it sit for an hour....... took it out ran great...... a properly built motor is key, but even more so are the tolerances......... especially conerning bearings........ so how good is your machine shop?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tHIS oNE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

True...
Im am in betweener, Pressure does seat the rings
But i think its not a bad idea to put some miles on it to let the bearings get used to themselves.
Id say 300-500 is what im comfortable with.
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so you think 500 miles is an ok number as well?

 

Dont baby the motor because there was one guy on H-T a few months back that did that. Then when he tryed to get on it he had oil blow by. Because the rings didnt seal properly.