2nd try B18c1 on boost (what went wrong the first time?)
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2nd try B18c1 on boost (what went wrong the first time?) Help!
setup:
95 Civ H/B
long block:
-b18c1 block stock ITR pistons,rods,crank balanced (CP's and eagles now)
-b18c1 head .5mm oversized valves mild p&p rev valve springs/retainers
-ITR cams with cam gears
-cometic .74 head gasket est. 9.8:1 ratio
-endyn catch can
-stock modified GSR intake
-stock TB
turbo setup:
-Neukin A/C manifold, DP,dumptube
-Tial 44 WG
-Precision SC61 w/.70 s-cover and surge housing
-Tial 50mm BOV
-3inch charge piping
-Hallman MBC
-3inch exhaust all the way
drivetrain:
-B16 w/type-r LSD
-ACT clutch solid hub
-ACT pressure plate
fuel/ign:
-Aeromotive FPR on return side
-1000cc injectors
-honda resistor box
-walbro 255
-stock fuel rail
-crome pro w/p28
-3 bar map
On the dyno the car kept on going lean. The guy tuning the car said it was at 75% duty cycle. The car was only making 208whp at that point. Everyone at the dyno was saying that they think it is the wiring harness. I was using a GSR wire harness, they said I should be using a Civic harness. I found that hard to believe but I was not counting that idea out. My guess was that the calculation for the injector sizing was off in the program or the resistor and injectors were not working together properly. I want to hear some of the turbo Honda pro's opinion. I will be giving it a second try but with Cp 81.5mm pistons and Eagle rods on stock sleeves ( goal is 500whp+). I plan to change the injectors to new ones and I am also thinking about a better resistor box. The car did idle rough and I heard that resistor boxes like the FJO help alot with injector control. Want to get it right this time. Let me hear your suggestions.
Modified by VtecCarHauler at 1:25 PM 8/13/2006
Modified by VtecCarHauler at 1:35 PM 8/13/2006
Modified by VtecCarHauler at 1:36 PM 8/13/2006
95 Civ H/B
long block:
-b18c1 block stock ITR pistons,rods,crank balanced (CP's and eagles now)
-b18c1 head .5mm oversized valves mild p&p rev valve springs/retainers
-ITR cams with cam gears
-cometic .74 head gasket est. 9.8:1 ratio
-endyn catch can
-stock modified GSR intake
-stock TB
turbo setup:
-Neukin A/C manifold, DP,dumptube
-Tial 44 WG
-Precision SC61 w/.70 s-cover and surge housing
-Tial 50mm BOV
-3inch charge piping
-Hallman MBC
-3inch exhaust all the way
drivetrain:
-B16 w/type-r LSD
-ACT clutch solid hub
-ACT pressure plate
fuel/ign:
-Aeromotive FPR on return side
-1000cc injectors
-honda resistor box
-walbro 255
-stock fuel rail
-crome pro w/p28
-3 bar map
On the dyno the car kept on going lean. The guy tuning the car said it was at 75% duty cycle. The car was only making 208whp at that point. Everyone at the dyno was saying that they think it is the wiring harness. I was using a GSR wire harness, they said I should be using a Civic harness. I found that hard to believe but I was not counting that idea out. My guess was that the calculation for the injector sizing was off in the program or the resistor and injectors were not working together properly. I want to hear some of the turbo Honda pro's opinion. I will be giving it a second try but with Cp 81.5mm pistons and Eagle rods on stock sleeves ( goal is 500whp+). I plan to change the injectors to new ones and I am also thinking about a better resistor box. The car did idle rough and I heard that resistor boxes like the FJO help alot with injector control. Want to get it right this time. Let me hear your suggestions.
Modified by VtecCarHauler at 1:25 PM 8/13/2006
Modified by VtecCarHauler at 1:35 PM 8/13/2006
Modified by VtecCarHauler at 1:36 PM 8/13/2006
#2
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Re: 2nd try B18c1 on boost (VtecCarHauler)
am I reading this wrong or the guy told you that 1000cc injectors where running 75% duty cycle at only 208whp?
and about the GSR wire harness that total BS
and about the GSR wire harness that total BS
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Re: 2nd try B18c1 on boost (BoostedEG6)
The tuner has a good number of dyno graphs and cars under his belt. I cannot say he doesn't know how to tune I have seen results before on other set-ups. Problem solving might be a little weak although it is up to me to have a problem free set up. I always think that a street car should be street tuned with a wideband before it goes on the dyno. On the dyno it sucks to be trying to solve problems and it seems harder to solve them on the dyno versus the street.
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i disagree, usually you tune ont he dyno, THEN tune on the street to get the part throttle pegged down...
anyway sounds like a not so great tuner, do you have any dyno charts? That would help...if you said it kept goin lean maybe you have a fuel issue, what is your fuel pressure at WOT? Maybe one of the injectors is bad?
I use the DSM resistor box on my 780cc's and it works great, might wanna switch to that but your honda should be fine as well..
anyway sounds like a not so great tuner, do you have any dyno charts? That would help...if you said it kept goin lean maybe you have a fuel issue, what is your fuel pressure at WOT? Maybe one of the injectors is bad?
I use the DSM resistor box on my 780cc's and it works great, might wanna switch to that but your honda should be fine as well..
#7
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Re: 2nd try B18c1 on boost (VtecCarHauler)
if you say this guy knows how to tune maybe you should give your fuel system a check over. check the wiring and check the resistor box and injectors.
something is deffinatly not right there.
something is deffinatly not right there.
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#8
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Re: 2nd try B18c1 on boost (non-VTEC)
I had one fuel pressure issues on the dyno but I solved it quickly. I actually changed the fuel pump on the dyno with a new Walbro. This didn't change anything. Fuel pressure was holding fine in boost.
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Re: 2nd try B18c1 on boost (VtecCarHauler)
sounds like the tuner, but, i would get a fjo box, set the fuel pressure to 55 and possible getting a new rail and feed line.( 1000's are pulling alot of fuel checking the pressure on the dyno would tell you that)
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