2000jdmEX

Okay so I have a 2000 civic ex with a b16a2 froma 99-00 si with 12x,xxx miles and matching tranny but I have a jdm b16a head on it, just letting that be know before getting into questions. Btw e85 isn't easily available in my town

I've got a really handy "how to rebuild a bseries" book, has all pictures and step by step tearing down and reassembling motor, some have probably seen the book.so I'm planning to build it myself with some help of a local machine shop and have it tuned at maperformance.

My whp goals are low 400's but still reliable for a sometimes daily driver.
I know stock sleeves will be okay with 400 I've done lots of research but I'd like to clear some stuff I'm fuzzy on.

Im planning to have the head looked over by the machine shop and have it thoroughly cleaned. Just leaving the head stock to free up money as I have read head work is not needed for my goals. Also planning on leaving intake manifold stock

I'm planning to have the block bored to 81.50 (.020) over with cp pistons(9.8:1 cr) and eagle rods. Stock crank, maybe get micro polished, is it worth it?
Id1000 cc injectors
Aem fuel rail
Aem fpr
Wahlbro 255 LPH-hp
Dna(?)88-01civic bseries t3 turbo mani only 150 on protuninglab.com? Bad or what? Trying to free up money by finding a little cheaper items. Don't hate haha
Garrett T3/T04E Stage III 60 trim Turbo on himni-racing.com
All new gaskets throughout whole engine
Ssqv 2.5" flange bov
Yonaka Type 11 26x12x3" intercooler
Tial MV-S Wastegate 38mm w/ All Springs
Gsr cams and Aem tru time cam gears. Did research on them, before you hate, every problem has been cuz of someone not torquing the bolts right
Acl main bearings? Some say good some say crap
Arp headstuds
Chipped p28 on ?chrome? Hondata? Not really sure on stuff like that. I have the factory p2t ecu
Already has a good clutch in it from previous owner so I'm gonna leave that be
Do I need a nice radiator?
What am I missing? I need it reliable.
Ls tranny maybe? Worth it?
Not sure on what to do with oil catch can and tapping the valve cover and oil pan.
Do I need to convert it from obd2 to obd1?
What throttle body?
Just wanna be really sure of what I'm doing and make sure everything will work right when I'm done building it.

Thanks for any info you got. Let me know what I'm missing from my list. I'm making this at 2:30 am so I might be missing some key info.

$amGD3

For 400 whp, boring the block and going with pistons that low of compression really isnt necessary

HELL no on LS trans

skip that manifold and look for used cast iron manis or mini-rams

yes you need OBD1, search for a chipped P28 and I would run Hondata S300 if i were you

do you have a budget set aside?

This can be a $1500 to a $15,000 setup

that turbo is going to be pretty laggy on a b16, i would look for something in the GT28/30 range

2000jdmEX

Okay I was just thinking ls tranny cuz of the longer gears.

Is there a certain brand of cast iron manifold I should look for?

How do I exactly convert my obd2 to obd1?

I don't really have a budget cause I'm am just going to dump my paychecks and money from selling random stuff I don't need into it over time, but I'd like to keep it cheaper than 15k lol. I've added up most of the parts cost and I know it's gonna be around 3-5 thousand just to make it run drive right. Suspension/ brakes coming eventually.

Thanks so much for the input

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Longer gears = slower acceleration. I don't know why you would want that, unless you're bad at shifting. The Go Autoworks manifold is cheap, but it's kind of hard to **** up cast iron - anything cheap, with the right holes should do fine.

Some of your questions are EXTREMELY basic. You should give the FAQ sticky here, as well as in the tuning section a good, long read. Also, doing boost before doing brakes and suspension is stupid.

2000jdmEX

I'm not going to be racing it or anything after it's done right away and my brakes and suspension aren't exactly bad so they will do fine for the break in period.

Sorry Im just starting to use this site now and don't really know my way around it yet. Thanks for the input!

Pullig

ive got a spoolin tubular log I just listed on ebay// t3 flange with 3inch downpipe..

good deal since how it goes for 300 for manifold and 300 for dp.

search for spoolin turbo manifold top of the list


right now its at 200.00

DC_Legacy

OP he's right....even though my setup is mild being a boosted B16 in the 250WHP neighborhood presently, the B16 Y21 LSD trans i have is ideal for gearing......the LS with an aftermarket LSD I would consider on a larger displacement setup like an H2B on boost or B20 with a smaller quicker spooling GT28rs

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Regardless of displacement, staying in stock ratios, shorter is better. It's called torque multiplication, if you want to look it up.