sleepencivic

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wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I'll have to look into that then. IIRC the big plugs I'm looking at use solder pins. I think I found a suitable plug for all of the power wires. I want to run them all separate from the engine component harness to avoid any potential signal noise.

I also got the civic on jackstands and measured for tire size. Front and rear from the upright and coilover to the lip of the fender is 11". If you figure a conservative width of 10.5" I can easily run a 255 with the correct offset wheel. I put a wheel with a 235 that measured around 9" in widthmounted and had all sorts of room. I'm sure if I played around with modifying the fenders I could fit a 275. Fronts would obviously be easier than the rears although from what I'm reading running a larger tire up front doesn't seem to hurt handling at least not that the time attack guys are noticing. Although I doubt with 255s at all 4 corners I need to go wider, even with 450-500hp since I'll be running something like an R888 for street use and Hoosier R6 slicks for track days.

I have a 275 and 255 that came off of my s13 in storage. I'm gonna grab them and see how it works out.

I also found an oled touchscreen hd monitor I'm planning to use as a cluster. I'm going to run a carPC dedicated to the ecu and the software includes a real time user configurable dash. That would eliminate all but a couple of gauges and keep the interior clean. Plus you can have a variety of dash layouts accessible by just touching the screen. One for street, track, tuning, datalogging, etc when I put the obd2 ecu back in I just run an obd to usb cable to the ecu and then have a dash during emissions.

The guys I've seen do the same thing with the same ecu and software looks amazing and has no delay in refreshing the gauges. Might as well be oem. The monitor I found is edge less and fits perfectly where the oem cluster was and is dirt cheap. Plus it's a glare resistant display. I need to also get the dash out of storage so I can start measuring things.

So happy I'm back to the point where I can actually work on my cars. Been a long time coming lol.

Dallasb84

Right on man. Get it going!

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea I should have the garage 100% done this weekend assuming my marketing duties don't take precedent. Then I need to get accord in, get it apart, then get it gone so I can finish pulling some things off so mockup can start. Granted I can't get the mockup motor in until I find that stupid block mount. Literally can't find it anywhere.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Driving to work today, stopped at a red light next to a large box truck. Looked over at the exhaust, and it was all V banded. Every single ******* joint. downpipe to flex? V band. Flex to B pipe? V band. B pipe to cat? V band. Cat to mid pipe? V band. Mid pipe to second cat? V band.

SO MANY V BAND CLAMPS.

$amGD3

that's overkill lol, that's like $500 in vbands alone!!!!

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Vbands make life easy.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

That's what I thought. I guess when you're putting 100k on a vehicle in a year instead of the average 15k, and paying your own maintenance crew to maintain the trucks, all those clamps are bound to make exhaust work stupidly easy. I just wasn't expecting to see it, and now I'm curious how much further it goes. Turbo to downpipe? Inlet to turbo? Maybe intercooler piping, if the truck even has it? It was a major fleet, too, so I'm sure when they call and say "we need 10000 of each of these items, all with V band clamps", it gets a lot cheaper than what you or I would pay for a few of them for one car.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The commercial box trucks I rent typically only use vband clamps on the exhausts starting at the turbine outlet. Most use standard hose couplers for the intercooler piping. A few might use a vband at the compressor outlet but that's it. The larger compound motors will use vbands for the piping and all diesel applications use some form of charge cooler. A few of the compound turbo motors user an intercooler between each turbo to increase efficiency.

My intercooler piping will use my Hydraflow clamps. I only plan on having one flange in the exhaust system at the turbine outlet. Since I'm going to use oval piping for the exhaust and there aren't any oval clamps meaning the exhaust has to be one piece I'll use some sort of slip joint at the round to oval transition off the turbo. Only thing that sucks is the can't bend oval piping on the wide end so any vertical transition has to use pie cuts. 9 10 degree cuts will do the downpipe under the pan but I don't know if I want to use pie cuts to clear the rear suspension as that's a ton of material and work. I don't know if I'm going to run the exhaust all the way to the rear and if I do I might convert to round piping to get around the suspension. Might run a side exit through the skirt since I'll be using the 4" or 5" kiwi special projects side skirts.

The other problem is there aren't any oval mufflers so passing the sound limit test at the track will be an issue. So that's something else I have to consider with the exhaust. I bet I could come up with a design for a compact oval muffler that my fabrication buddies could weld up.

Trying to build a somewhat competitive track day car/still street drivable car is hard, too much planning lol.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Also you don't realize how far your fenders are pulled until you put a stock fender back on. Hopefully my pull gives me enough room for wide rubber, it should if my measurements and assumptions are correct.



Based on the stock fender vs my pulled fenders I should have tons of room lol.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Why the actual **** are you wanting to use oval exhaust piping?

Considering I'll be running 20-25 PSI when I get all my **** in order, I don't know if I should start looking at clamping ALL THE THINGS.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Ground clearance, also I'll likely be flat bottoming the car and that doesn't work if the exhaust sits very fast below the chassis.

Remember we aren't taking about 4x4 ground clearance here. Only around 3" or so static depending on how much the car squats at speed from downforce.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Harness done

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I was in new york last week so it kinda slowed me down lol

I forgot to take a pic before i ran it through the firewall

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

basically... what loom is that?

also, each one of those breakouts would benefit from a ziptie around it for added strain relief.

and I was finally able to confirm that a 255/50/16 toyo R888 has an inflated width of 10.6" so with 11" of room I should be fine. maybe. Of course that's measured on a 9" wide wheel. If need be I could go up to a 10 to put a tiny bit of stretch into the tire to cheat on the width a tad.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

this one McMaster-Carr the fray resistant


I don't know where you mean to add a zip tie


post a pic

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Every place a wire breaks out. Helps to support the harness from its own weight and stuff, like pushing/pulling to connect/disconnect things.

Dallasb84

Looks well done! Good job!

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Doesn't look half bad, hatchy. Room for improvement, but for your first time, a solid result.

Ah, doing this crazyness for the vette?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Lol

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Wait, was that not your first time making a harness? The way you were talking about it, I figured it was your first go...

Awake entirely too early, eyeballing a Go Autoworks kit. Ugh. $3220 for a turbo kit. This is why I need to piece together my own kit.

phaphon

I spent more piecing my kit together but I bought everything new. I guess it's okay since you don't get everything you need for that kit right ?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

My second go round.

What would you have done different? And not spend 2 years doing it either :p

I have a tial 38mm waste gate if you need one

Schister66

Who buys a "turbo kit" anymore...? Definitely better to piece it together on your own IMO.

Also, I have a pile of random, new-in-box turbo parts if you're looking for a deal on stuff...S2 68mm TB, Bosch 1000ccs with clips, HKS SSQV, oil lines, Walbro 255, built Z6 longblock and a bunch of D series crap, etc...

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Far as I can tell, everything except the injectors (already have Bosch 1600's sitting in the garage) and a tune (duh). GT3076, tubular manifold, downpipe, intercooler and piping, WG (Tial, I think) and BOV (SSQV, because why the hell not be obnoxious about my boost?). Pop the kit on, disconnect the charge pipe, drive up to the tuner, swap injectors, reconnect charge pipe, and let him do his thing.

Ah, werd. The main thing was the gaps in the junctions, which looks unfilled and unprotected, but maybe (hopefully) you have something in there as well. Also, zip tie those damn junctions or something

I might take you up on the Tial. 38mm should do it's job for a 3076 @ 20-25 PSI, right?

and you have the BOV...damnit, man! I won't run Junk2, already have the injectors, and I don't know that the 255 will feed enough (considering a 340, or maybe the pump that I got a little excited about back in my fuel pump thread), but I definitely might have to hit you up as well. Between you and hatch, that covers a decent chunk of it. I'd just have to source a manifold that isn't ****, piping/intercooler, and the turbo itself...just have to look into the pricing of a 3076. Shodan sent me a PM a while back, I'll have to go digging through to find it.