jwoo_woodard

wow, this thread has crazy information for the masses, and the feed back you guys give is great. so for my question for my build i dont have all the details worked out yet but have a good idea, and willing to spend some decent money on a great set up like noswizards but not sure if i have the coin to get down with his kit, I am wanting to building a G23 build want to do a NA N2O set up with ITB's any suggestions want to run 12.5 CR also will be H2b kit in a eg the only other person i seen trying N2O with ITBs was ghostofnyc, could you please gave any insight to this, if i dont go g23 it will be a h22, I do have some experience with N2O but after reading this i am at wow... and now i am not going to put just anything on my build. please help

cibao2ner

hey im new to nitrous..but i recently got a great deal on a nitrous express nxl kit the one with the fuel rail...for less than a single nozzle wet kit..new!! so does anyone have anything good/bad to say about this kit? its rated at 40-60-90 whp but i was wondering if it can go higher or the solenoids wont be able to go higher...also im going to install using a window switch to go on at 5500 and cut out at 8000 is this good? any suggestions..all this is going into a b18c1 stock internals with every bolt on...if i go with a 90 shot should i retard the dissy 4 deg btdc or 3? i read 80% of this tread but most of the questions are "is it safe to run a xxx shot on xxx compression....?" nothing about hooking it up safely..i plan to also use the wot switch inline with the msd window switch..i was looking into progressive controllers but i hear they bust ur solenoids so i forgot about that...any info any tips welcome...

I CRX I

ok quick questions fellas, i just finished supercharging my car and was looking for that extra kick...i have a NOS wet kit but ive read the fuel from a wet kit can eat through the protective coating on the SC rotors. so my question is, could i run the wet kit as a dry?? no fuel connected. im planning on running just a 20-35 shot for a little extra and to help aid in keeping the IAT's down during back to back runs...

01DC4

iTrader: (3)

bump for a badass thread with great info

Garage 808 Hatch

Wow, there is some horrible NOOBness in the thread lately, reminds me of why I left. People so overcomplicate these setups its crazy. ricer no.7 hope to see you get that going, even how it is, that kit will work great.
I'm by no means a nitrous guru, but have been faster than most the people here giving horrible knowledge with such simple setups. ****, the zex single fogger wet kit gets talked down about so much, it makes me laugh. Its a very basic design and works well. I went 11.13@122.5 with one. I went 11.43@118 on a stock block B16 with one. I cant help but laugh at some of the posts, sorry/end rant

Ricer no 7

yeah i'm just sticking with the your kit garage 808. Just going to run the 125 shot for now on 100 octane

Car is tuned on all motor right now just having problems here and there that are being cleared up. My shop and tuner have just been taking forever should be done very soon.

Then track times.

Set up is:
(O this motor is set up for turbo but i don't have the funds yet so using nitrous)

1994 Integra sedan rs

Short block:
83mm rs sleeved
9:1 comp arias piston
crower rods
acl race bearing
ls micro polished crank

Head:
b16 head stock port
supertech valvetrain

other goodies:
zex direct port wet kit
victor x mani (ported by garage 808)
65 mm throttle body (need a bigger one)
tri y knock off header
2.5 inch mandrel bent exhuast with a stock muffler (gotten multiple state ref tickets keep it looking sleeper
2.5 inch e cut out (right after the header)

225 50 15 drag radials mounted on work rsr e wing rims
rear tire are 170 65 15 ghetto drag skinnies

missing some stuff i think you get the idea

tuned on hondata s300 by redzone performance

all motor I wasn't expecting much since the component are set up for boost
low compression and victor x to big for my set up all motor etc.

I hit 165 whp 125 torque (tuned with cut out closed for the streets stock muffler)

Hoping to hit around 270 whp hopefully 300 whp

Ricer no 7

Hopefully i'll make you proud garage 808 lol

Props wolve for being a student tuner

I'm a student to took me years of figuring out and saving to finally be getting close to my goals. Except now i'm broke again and need to start saving for the turbo build. It okay with summer i can work full time hours again.

Ready for a student vs student honda-tech battle see whose times are better.

Question whats wrong with your 60ft they look good to me your on street tires right? 2.0 60fts are fine i think lol.

Your prob gonna win. I have a heavy four door and a 125 shot and low compression lol. I'm probably put down about 30 whp less than you. My nitrous goals are lower than yours. But I'm just going boost plus nitrous in the future.

Post up as soon as i get tuned and track times

wolve

ricer no7, would love a honda tech battle

you having the heavier coupe, i'm stuck with the crap track in holland

i'm aiming for high 11's in holland. maybe heading back for santa pod for a 11.6-11.7 end of this season. as a student you know how money comes slow.

next year i'll hopefully be done with school and have a decent job.
goals for next year are tens with a semibuilt block (200+whp) and 200-250 shot direct port dry. the heavy coupe is holding me back a bit as i would be hitting mid-low 11's with this setup in a light body.

but that's the reason i did not went turbo...i don't like easy challenges

i'm very curious for your times tough, wish you the best of luck

I CRX I

Ricer no 7

You just might make me up the shot to 200

My motor can handle it just didn't want to mess anything up before the turbo.

With the 125 shot i was hoping for around a 13.00 ish but know it first for me using nitrous at the track prob 13.5 (this would be my second time to the track ever. Need some more seat time its different from the streets)

I'll keep you posted if i change my mind to go with the 150 shot or 200 shot(sooo tempting)

Garage 808 Hatch

oh ya, my single fogger was a 125shot it made 281/220 on a b16 with 11.5:1 comp on a very safe tune

rico91stang

iTrader: (1)

NIce to see this thread is still around.

wolve

any DirectPort will work with itb´s, you can spray pre- or postTB, wichever you prefer.
just get it running, start small and learn on the way

no use in building a setup for years and years trying to perfect it, build it, run it, change things you don't like and run it again

i don't like the whole nitrous rail thing, just seems another expansion chamber for nitrous to become gaseous before it hits the jet. i'd atleast get a good dist.block and plumb some hardlines to the nozzles for the nitrous side.

if you stay between the factory recommendations of 40-90whp the rail wil probably be fine, but you'll soon want more. just keep checking your plugs if every cilinder gets the same mixture and heat when tuning.

wot switch and window switch are always a good thing when spraying as you do not want to hit the stock fuel cut limiter on spray and run lean
run them inline

progressive is awesome, only most solenoids wear out very quickly because there not meant to be pulsed. be ready to change out seals frequently or buy some pulsoids

offcourse you can! you'll just have to provide for the fuel another way (trough the injectors by the ecu for example)

i'm no nitrous guru either, i just like to help people with the little knowledge and logical thinking i have.

nitrous will always do it's job, even if you ziptie the main feedline in your intake and control the amount of nitrous by turning open the bottle.

i always try to do the things right the first time. people are putting thousands of dollars into their engine for 40whp allmotor, and they cheap out on a well designed dist.block, run 2 cil lean and 2 cil rich because their wideband tells them the overall picture is 12:1, run 90% of what they should be running and eventually blow their top dollar motor.

when choosing components for your nitrous setup it takes little effort/money to find the well designed units and run more horsepower more reliable.

i have that affect on people

i demand 12's with a 150shot
my mates car with a I/H/E gsr with cams (193whp) with a 60whp shot (254whp) i tuned ran a mid 12 on street tires (hit a mystery 1.9sec60ft on a perfect run)

nitrous is addicting

nice numbers, pump gas?

The Up Garage

just ran 14.01 on the quarter, with my stockas setup...
-70 wet shot..
-stock ls(b18b1) swap\gsr tranny,open diff..
-100+91 oct mix
-sittin at 900-950psi
-14in nitto 555r drag radials..
-full exhaust.

soon to make some runs on slicks my goal was to bust 13s safely....this dam car never wants to push into faster numbers my last setup was stuck at 13.02...

wolve

dajum...

what's your mph? 60 fts? what's your weight? jet size?
you would think the power is there to run mid 13's

stock ls does about 110-120whp or some thing? with a 70 shot it should be somewhere between 180-190whp...

that paired with some DR's and a good track should do mid 13's all day
i ran 13.6@103mph all day on a old unprepped airstrip in a heavy coupe with ~183-188whp

how much timing do you pull? what's the a/f ratio on spray? what are the compression nr's on the engine?

Ricer no 7

So anyone know where I can get just a nice distribution block and some hardlines for cheap. Can't find to much that would ship out fast.

Which distribution blocks are nice?? I found some most have 90 degree bends

tell me what you think about ordering for jegs

http://www.jegs.com/p/NOS/NOS-Equal-...45482/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/p/Edelbrock/Edel...61494/10002/-1

wolve

the nos unit looks somewhat similair to the wilson manifolds unit (wich is known to be one of the best available.

dynotunenitrous.com also has a nice cheap unit that looks to give equal flow (hhave'nt seen the innerworks personally... but at least it's not as brutal as the double t-fitting some kits come with.

nos unit looks nice, together with the plumb kit and a nice tube bender should make for a nice upgrade (with the dist.blovk being the important one)

Ricer no 7

Man my shop went on vacation for a week. Car won't be done for a while since i go on vacation after that for two weeks.

Order two new distribution blocks. They will fit my current lines and fittings correct?? Didn't have the cash to buy the hard lines yet but distribution blocks were cheap found one on amazon for 20.00 with and paid 33 for the other one on jegs

Bump we need someone to post some crazy set up on this forum once again. Just us kids posting it seems lol

Transpoquick

whoever gets #3000 on this sucks.

wolve

#3000???

anyway,

very nice setup you have there

well setup and tought out, just the way i like to see things done
do you experience split second lean spikes upon activation of the system (in the datalogging graphs)? or do you have your nitrous solenoid on a delayed circuit?

reason i'm asking is that your post solenoid fuellines look a tad bit longer then your nitrouslines....

where are you powerwise? around 230whp in a hatch?

it's probably just plug and play, maybe you have to buy some fittings...
don't worry about the hardlines, that's just a performance issue, dist.blocks are a safety issue!

convince someone to donate me some cams (m22/s2s2/s2p1) and springs,
then i'll come back with 360-370whp pump gas stock block and 400whp racegas stock block

if someone where to give me a few grand i'll show you a 450+whp 10 sec juice only daily driven eg coupe

if you like serious setups search for cubish tuned setups, he's done numerous 400+whp nitrous builds

wolve

here's a 221whp allmotor, 330whp first stage and 427whp second stage nitrous build
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/all-motor-nitrous-gsr-dyno-2518463/

Transpoquick

I wrote that on fri night, thats all I have to say. Thats a coupe, it's probably making about 300 HP. No datalogging, stock p28 ecu, Its activated with a master switch, wot switch, and the msd w/ a window switch.
Burnt valves a couple times in the 6 plus years I've been using the set-up always from cranking the timing up too much. Normally its at 11, 13 if feeling lucky. I use a 10.5 piston, 50/50 mix of 93 and 110.

gitrdrunk

Hey i'm a noob to this whole 4 banger deal... nevermind
I have a 94 accord h22a swap which turned into a bitch,

first time owning a a honda lol no clue what i was doing until i got help
was a good swap no cel drove great...until

my friends did the nos on it and they unplugged the egr valve solenoid, they didn't tell me, I really dont know what to say about that, my car runs like poop now
felt like clogged fuel filter, so i replaced, little better, then replaced o2 sensor, nothings changed, so i ran diagnostics, blah blah came up with o2 sensor code as well as my knock sensor, and of coarse my egr... car is running way rich, i can smell it let alone all the black soot on my exhaust

i asked my helpers and they told me that it has to be off if i want nos...
does my egr solenoid have to be off to spray?
If so could i run a toggle switch to manually turn off when i spray
sorry if these are stupid ?'s i just couldn't find any answeres here

wolve

what is your basetiming, 16? what are the jet sizes (shot size)?

300hp and a 12.4@106mph

seems kinda slow for 300hp...

my friend wich nitrous setup i build/installed/tuned runs a very mild street setup.
it consist of a 193whp bolt-on GSR and a 50 shot.
after some tuning the setup made 254whp on a safe tune (he beats on it alot!)
at santa pod where i ran he managed to pull a perfect run, 1.9 60ft on STREET TIRES (205/50/16 toyo proxes t1-r)

all in all, back to my point, his setup makes 254whp equals roughly 294hp at the crank (sub 300hp) and....
the time on his perfect run was a 12.4@113.28 mph
and the car is a 94 civic 4door with only rear seats, spare tire and rear bumper removed

now i know slicks take away some mph but not 7.x mph i think
pic of the car


you can see the tread on the tires that they are true allseasons (no DR's)

evidence on the time http://www.ptmshow.co.uk/

so that's why i tought it's probably around 220-230 whp

FST GSR 1

Now why take the bumper off? Run the car how you drive it, thats all I have to say. Track gutting the car is stupid.