MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

this is what your after
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HONDA-ACU...item1c2904d3ce

TMX

thank you so much. but it said b16, is it the same for 92-95 sohc vtec? i know the 96-99 sohc are a bit different and will not work due to the fact the fpr bolts sit lower than the fuel hole.

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

no idea if it will fit sohc
if you get stuck you might have to update the fuel rail

TMX

i just brought my m45 blower today for 500 bucks. no choice the only one in the state.

1. the coating is all gone.. where do you guys think is a good place to have it sent in and replace.
2. if being replace is it possible to swap the rotor out to a twin screw rotors instead
3. looked up LHT and they make the new V3 manifold intercooler. looks awsome, anyone know anything about it ? can they be trusted ?

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

1. waste of time and money ( porting n polishing works, better use of $$ )
2. no not possible totaly diffrent charger design
3. LHT works but you need to tell them to send your manifold back and spec what you want done re fittings

Ultraspeed DC2

What do you guys normally tune your A/Fr's at? I'm running an ITR (10.6:1) and 11.5-12.0

I've done road courses 30-40 minutes at a time @ 5.5psi before and now around 8psi

I have an adjustable B&M FPR, could I just adjust it this way if I want to make I guess a linear adjustment across the board?

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

afr should be around 12:1
No you should never try to adjust AFR via the FPR
if you have changed the setup ..raiseing the psi you need to retune

GOOCH-JDM-ITR

Is that 12:1 across the board or just when in boost.
I was thinking I was always running too rich seeing 11-12 on average on the wideband, but now I feel relieved

wunfstgsr

12:1-12:5 in boost, idle and part throttle should be 13:5-14:5.

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

oops was tired...
as wunfstgsr stated 12:1-12:5 in boost, idle and part throttle should be 13:5-14:5.

GodlikeGS-R

im installing a jrsc on my 95 GSR

Ive been skimming this thread for a while now but this is my first post. Im 200 pages in so far.

I cant believe how much crap is on the stock manifold. I still have to pull the alternator. I should probably get a new one before I put it back together.

setup:
-Stock B18c1
-OEM 4-1 ITR header
-2 1/4" ss junkyard catback
-Stock blower pulleys, crank pulley...
-Hondata S300
-RC 550 injectors
-Hondata I.M. gasket
-NGK BK7RE11 plugs
- VMS fuel pressure regulator adapter and new filter
-LHT Intercooler modd. package deal w/ 70mm TB

I bought the S300 from King Motorsports so once the car is together they will tune it for free.
My kit must be an old one from what I can tell. There is no blower support hardware and no boss to bolt it to the alternator bracket. So if anyone has a spare newer style alternator mount or hardware and wants to sell it let me know. Otherwise Ill have to fab something. I don't like the idea of just letting it hang out there unsupported. Is there any vendors out there besides the JRsite who might have what Im looking for?

The plan is to get it back on the ground to finish out the autocross season. Its the original high mileage motor (177k) so I plan to eventually do a mild rebuild with some port work and install an ITR exhaust cam. I will probably replace the pulleys and rebuild the blower at that time and maybe jump to 8psi.
Im sure I could gain a little with a kami header. But I love the sound and stealth look of my R header.

mr. Grind

just did a head gaket change and found out that most my lht intake manifold bolts were loose. funnily I did experience any crazy idle issues. hope I can recop at least 3hp I was losing try boost leak. should be and interesting test drive.

ps. had some water oil mixing and found out that my

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

there impossible to find you will have to fab up a support bracket and yes they are a good idea
as it is a lot of weight to hand on the manifold as they have a rep for cracking

TMX

anyone selling a b-series jrsc b16 to be exact and lht is a plus. i have money on hand ( actually in my bank account )

GodlikeGS-R

Thanks for the reply. Ya I just recently became aware that they can crack.
Ill have to see whats available for mounting points.

Just de-pinned my injector plugs and installed a set of center notch EV1s.

Now im trying to decide where to mount the pump and run the coolant hoses. I may use the washer fluid tank as an overflow for now though Im not crazy about it. Im not big on changing things that effect street use. Considering running the coolant hoses through the upper drivers side frame rail into the fender cavity.

wunfstgsr

I used the oem windshield washer resivour for my lht water coolant mixture works great actually i just put two plastic plugs in the holes and attached the hoses with a clamp ran one to my water pump to the heat exchanger, then the hose from other hole in the heat exchanger goes to the manifold, and the other hose from the other side of the manifold goes back down and tees off into both the hoses that feed the two holes in the resivour and water pump. Hope that makes sence but just look at the pics you can figure it out as long as the water pump sucks water and pushes it through the heat exchanger and manifold and is returned to the resivour it should be fine you can use better routing when it comes to the hoses im sure it can be done cleaner than i had it ol.



This is my Type R crate motor i built back in 2010 i used a brand new crate head, crate block, and crate tranny and new jrsc and LHT manifold. was very fun and fast but lacked top end. Curently running a ATI Pro charger supercharger.

Black R

^ that doesn't look like it's lacking top end...!

wunfstgsr

with that setup it was almost maxed out as far as boost psi, i could of played with other factors like race fuel, ported head, different header even 3'' exhaust but decided not to because after a few pulls i felt allot of heat soak even with the LHT manifold you can just feel the power falling off after a few pulls. my first pulley combo actually made 18psi but with the stock bottom end and it made 212 ft lbs tq by 4k rpm lol but i didn't dare to tune with that much boost and plus spinning the jrsc that fast is not recommended 12 psi is really its efficiency range, so i lowered it to 12psi and made 285 hp. With my pro charger supercharger on the same motor it made 275 hp with just 6psi!. so theres much more room for growth, I'm about to retune it on 12psi and with a entire different engine setup including a ported and polished type R crate head head, sk2 ultra street manifold, 74mm throttle, tuner 2 cams! and see what it makes on 12psi, i hope to break 350hp. it should start spooling allot more ear lie with the boost bleed valve and smaller pulley. so with my 12psi pulley right now its making about 5psi around 3,500 rpm i plan to use a smaller pulley to make more boost even earlier and with the boost bleed valve it will bleed off boost to 12 psi at redline. just not sure if it will hook with it creating such amounts of boost so ear lie. but i will see.

Black R

Can any of you hear VTEC engage?

I've been street tuning and can't hear it or feel it engage.

FOUR-G

While tuning on a DynoJet, how important is Final Drive ratio? At any point do you have to enter that info into the program before results are given...or never and results are given based on info not related to FD?

wunfstgsr

Possibly its not engaging!

I always hear my vtec on my JRSC B series motors. Its very pronounced. I never really heard the whine thats associated with the JRSC just very subtle so vtec was always heard. I also believe it has to do with the cam profile as well as the intake manifold your using. on certain motors if tuned very well it will have a seamless crossover so it will be hard to hear it engage but its there like on my last LHT motor it was heard pretty well when tuning but on the street it was seamless and hard to hear especially with a loud exhaust but the best way is to confirm on the dyno.

wunfstgsr

This is something to ask a experienced tuner not a forum.

Call LHT performance and ask them they are very nice and well known! they are the ones who pattened the LHT water to air cooled manifold for the JRSC. They do amazing work and really know there stuff! i highly recommend them even if its a question about tuning.


https://www.facebook.com/LHTPerformance?ref=br_tf

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

you dont need to enter any FD in to and dyno
just dyno it in 4th thats as close to 1:1 drive
and thats all you need to do

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

yes i can hear myn and have heard it on a few
it can be quiet or pronounced depends on the crossover point
you can check when tuneing if you attatch a multy meter to the solonoid you will see its voltage come up when engaged
of if in hondata you should see it engage

Black R

That's what I'm wondering - if my VTEC solenoid isn't responding or something.

I see the output engage on my datalogs, but don't feel a kick or really hear it...

I'm using the unmodified jrsc manifold and the gsr / itr cam combo.

I'll do some troubleshooting this week, but I was just wondering what you guys' opinion / experience has been.