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Looking for some assistance in getting my tune a little closer to where it should be, first thing I need to sort getting the idle up a bit.
I have H23A-Vtec with H23A injectors and a P28 with pherable tune. Car idles super low under full vacuum. Wideband is around 11.1 at Idle sometimes as low as 10.1. Car runs rich all of the time. Pic of wideband was hard to get since it flickers. Tach shows rpm at idle. AEM Cold air intake, 2.5 exhaust with stock header with modified downpipe. Brain is mush after spending a few hours looking at bin files so if any more info is needed let me know.
I pulled the eprom today and loaded it in Crome. I can provide the bin if it will help. I downloaded a few new bins for reference and none of them were especially close to what I have with my current tune.
That appears to have been made with an older version of Crome. There should be an "offset" box under where it says offset in the multiplier calculator which would allow adjustment of the entire fuel map under about 7inHg.
You really are running way too rich and are definitely contaminating your oil. There's a likelihood of washing your rings out too. You need to get the rich condition under control or you risk the engine. After you get the AFRs under control you need to change the oil to remove all the contamination and save your bearings.
The far left column is the RPM column. The numbers you see at the very top are a load value in the form of vacuum/boost. Where they intersect is the fuel value for that particular rpm and load.
To begin to get that under control, select all the cells in the low cam fuel table under the 7.75" column and remove 10% fuel(likely more in the idle area). Then check your idle AFR and part throttle cruising. Your idle will go up when the motor stops drowning in fuel. Add/remove fuel in the cells that need it from there but it's going to be very difficult without a vacuum gauge to tell you the load you're at. General rule of thumb is 14.7-15.5 idle/cruising, Mid 13s for part throttle, and I prefer around 12.8 WOT for NA applications. Once you get the AFRs within a decent margin of where they should be, you can enable your O2 sensor and that should take care of the fine adjustments in closed loop. To enable that, you will need to swap pins A6 and A11 on the Accord harness so that the O2 heater will work. This gen Accord had those two wires switched for some reason.
You really need a tune. It's not advisable to run a basemap to begin with but the one you haven't definitely wasn't made well. This isn't something you can cheap out on. You're either going to invest a lot of time and money into equipment learning yourself or you can pay an actual tuner to do it.
The actual value in those columns will vary wildly between each setup. The injector offset has a lot of influence on the values in the deeper vacuum area. What works for you will not work for the next guy, usually.
You would think that "Dyno Proven premium tune" would get you something closer. I feel like my setup is pretty generic and should not be that hard to have decent starting tune. The scary part is that I had no clue how rich it was until I got the wideband, I'm glad I played it safe and added that right away. I was considering getting a Vacuum gauge next(its on my amazon wish list) but now its definitely something I will end up getting very soon.
Also thank you for the information on the O2 Sensor, I was going to turn on the o2 sensor and give it try but I suppose I would have ended up with a Cel. Ill change that around as well and wait to enable it. I ordered a ZIF socket a few days ago so that its easier to change the eproms, without the emulator I will be changing the chips a lot I guess until I get things smoothed out.
I wanted to learn that's why I went ahead and got the data cable and burner. I know the emulator would speed things along as well but for now ill work with what I have. I only have a few hundred miles on this engine with the tune so we should be ok, ill change out the oil once we get the fuel under control.
I read a lot of nightmare stories of guys getting dyno tune and blowing up on the way home. I would prefer to learn where I can myself so that I have a better understanding on where things should be and what needs to be done to improve on things.
I made the change you suggested and ill burn it later and give it a shot this weekend. before I burn it I just want to make sure I was clear on your suggestion.
I selected Column 1-6(low cam fuel) from row 500-7936 and decreased the value by 10%. Is that correct?
I want to try out datalogging as well but it looks like I need a crome pro license. I will get that most likely in a few months.
I created a new Rom starting with the Base P28 but I did not get the Offset box you had mentioned.. I just noticed that at the bottom of the Screen it says Base P30 with old fuel tools. Would P30 be the correct starting point?
I also lost the Extra Features section when I created the new rom. There is nothing there too important but I was thinking about playing with launch control.
I burned the new Rom. She is sitting at 12.5-12.6 at idle now and close to 500rpms. So the idle has improved. I didn't drive it yet, I revved it a few times and it looks like it goes into the low 13's for part throttle.
I changed the injector size to 310 and it threw a code 4. Strange.
Well I played with it a little more.
I selected Column 1-6(low cam fuel) from row 500-7936 and decreased the value by 20% and it idled at 14.7 when cool and 14.5 when at operating temp. Part throttle was mid to high 15's so I need to do some further tweaking. I'm not really too sure where to edit at the moment. Ill order the Vacuum gauge today.
The idle did drop down again once at operating temp. That sucks I thought we had that sorted, I may not have let it warm up long enough earlier.
If anyone has a bin they are willing to share please send it over, the more I have to look at the better idea I have on what needs to be done to get this optimal. Subpopx@hotmail.com
I spoke to a somewhat local guy about tuning and he said they charge a flat rate of $350. That's not too bad. Actually.. now that I actually looked at their site it looks like Church is only $400... for only an extra $50 I could go somewhere highly recommended.
Well I definitely want to get things working optimally before going there, need to make sure nothing is broken on my side. I was thinking that maybe I should change out the Map Sensor, I have spares laying around.
The Injectors are 295cc High Impedance. I think that's why the Injector Duty Cycle is so much different from other tunes I have been looking at. FYI I am not running a resistor box. I tried a H22A tune that was kindly send to me but I couldn't even get it to really start on that tune. I guess I just need to making small tweaks until I get things right. My vacuum gauge doesn't arrive until the end of next week so I have some time. My ZIF socket should arrive on Tuesday so that will help so I'm not bending the pins on the eproms every time I remove them.
I set the Injectors to 195cc and the IAC Compensation to 4%. I set that vac/rpm range to -15% and its a good improvement without going lean. It definitely needs a lot more work but I feel a little more comfortable. The Idle is still dropping down to around 250. Maybe I have a vac leak somewhere or my map is acting up? My Vac gauge wont be here to the end of the week at the earliest.
Any ideas on how I can improve the idle quality? Its better than before but it still dips close to stalling before smoothing out.
I got my Vac gauge in today and hooked it up, had to break out the dremel and do some more trimming behind the AC controls but its in there.
Looks like I am 22 at idle, I still need to give it a drive and look at it, I installed it next to the Wideband gauge so it would be easy to video them together, now if I squeeze the tach near a well it would make it really easy but that's a no go.
I set the IAC Compensation to 20% and now she is idling around 600 and is soo much smoother in the low rpms. I did notice that its still rich at idle even after leaning it out. I figured the IAC setting would make it leaner and not richer. I'm going to give this a shot tomorrow, This is the first 3 columns and rows on the low cam. I brought it down quite a bit from where I started.
43.00 120.00 246.00
42.50 123.75 255.00
55.50 163.75 277.50
H23A Vtec Throttle body. Yea it has no adjustment screw. As long as I do the IAC Compensation she idles perfectly. Air Fuel is still not quite right tho. I have not made any further adjustments recently as I have been a bit busy with other projects. I started building a new wire harness since I suspect I have a loose wire somewhere in the harness. I need to make sure I have absolutely no mechanical problems before taking it in to be tuned.
[font][font][QUOTE = ISUBIEXI; 51080928] Configuré los inyectores en 195cc y la compensación IAC en 4%. [/font][font]Establecí el rango de vacío / rpm en -15% y es una buena mejora sin ser magra. [/font][font]Definitivamente necesita mucho más trabajo, pero me siento un poco más cómodo. [/font][font]El ralentí todavía se está reduciendo a alrededor de 250. ¿Tal vez tengo una fuga de aspiración en algún lugar o mi mapa está mejorando? [/font][font]Mi indicador de Vac no estará aquí hasta el final de la semana como muy pronto. [/font][/font]
[font][font]¿Alguna idea sobre cómo puedo mejorar la calidad de inactividad? [/font][font]Es mejor que antes, pero todavía está cerca de detenerse antes de suavizarse. [/ QUOTE][/font][/font]
Why u change the inyectors?? Put them 290cc , its the right spot, use a h22A7 base map and copy the fuel map, then set the idle % , can u send the fuel map?
10-05-2016, 08:00 PM
H23A-Vtec Crome Tuning Advice
