Well after my datalogger issue last night (posted below), I just threw my map on the ostrich so I could use it to drive my car to work today. Went out this morning and got a solid CEL, limp mode, the whole fun deal. I ended up, after re-loading the map a few times and trying a fresh one, getting my roommate's ECU and burning a chip for it. So now I have my P72 sitting here on my desk and confirmed by a few people that it smells fried. The car it was last in is a H22 swapped DC teg, I'm thinking my friend may have made a mistake doing the wiring, since the IAT, IACV, PCS, and secondaries are all in the same area. Q31 doesn't look destroyed like usual, but it definitely smells bad. I've never had one blow on me since I usually do my own wiring, so I don't know if it will cause an issue like this. Should I just remove it? I have a Neptune ECU I can use in my car but I need this one for tuning other cars and of course it IS mine and it worked before.

 

I guess I should add a little more info... the teg is freshly swapped a few days ago and is having a weird driving issue. Basically at cruise, between 1500ish and 2500rpm it stutters and bucks like its misfiring badly. It's also throwing a code for IACV. If you floor it or get into load fast it pulls like a ****, no stuttering issues, but at cruise and lightly revving it at a stop will make the stutter happen. Could it be possible he switched the IACV plug and the PCS, so it's like trying to trigger the purge but actually getting the IACV? I don't know if that even makes sense but I'm trying to understand what's happening and why my ECU is now [freak]ed up.

 

which wire colors do you have at the plugs? (and which harness)
I can tell you if they are switched or not.

you may also have your IAT and EVAP purge switched and a bad IACV.
Both are common with new swaps.

with Q31 blown or smelling bad, your ECU will still work fine. OBD1 does not throw a code for EVAP purge.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">which wire colors do you have at the plugs? (and which harness)
I can tell you if they are switched or not.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can trace colours but I don't know if they kept the stock plugs in the stock location when doing the swap. I called my roommate and told him to bust out the multimeter and go through ALL of the wiring from the plugs to the ECU pins and see if he can find anything wrong.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you may also have your IAT and EVAP purge switched and a bad IACV.
Both are common with new swaps.

with Q31 blown or smelling bad, your ECU will still work fine. OBD1 does not throw a code for EVAP purge.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not as concerned with the wiring on the swap right now, if I do it myself I know I can get it straight, but I don't really feel like doing it. I'm more worried about my P72, since I don't actually know what's wrong with it. It's throwing a solid CEL, and then if I take the chip out and put it in another ECU and plug that in, nothing, runs perfect.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's throwing a solid CEL, and then if I take the chip out and put it in another ECU and plug that in, nothing, runs perfect. </TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds like a bad chip job. Solid CEL with J1 removed?

 

It's my personal ECU that I've had for years, I chipped it a LONG time ago and never had any problems.

 

not questioning your abilities or that it was done right.
Did you try it with J1 removed?
**** happens sometimes, ESD the board when putting in the new chip, solder joint goes bad, etc. I've had it happen to me a few times.

 

Ok thanks, I'll try that in the morning when I get back to the shop. I have a Neptune ECU I'm trying out that got me home... I'm sold 8)

 

Hondata S200/Hondata S300/Crome/Uberdata/Neptune/eCtune. Tuned & ran them all.
eCtune is in my car currently. No plans to go to anything else any time soon.

 

I've used all those but eCtune now, and a bunch of other systems on different cars. I really like Neptune... BUT whatever I used I'd be stuck without an ECU to use it with :/

Is there a good way to test for bad components, or anything else I should look for? None of the electrolytic caps have burst or anything, nothing is obviously bad it just kinda smells bad.

 

Smell is a bad sign, but troubleshooting an ECU is next to impossible via the internet.
What part smells bad? Q31? not a show stopper at all, unless it's shorted.

you're not too far from this guy...
- Tom Sewell :
* Swell Racing
* Location: Port St Lucie, FL
* Phone: 1 772 940 3455
* Sewell94 (at) hotmail.com
I'm sure he could tell you what the problem is. (in person of course)

 

Cut J1 and see how the ecu runs. That will help narrow down the problem.

 

if it still doesn't run after cut j1 then the ecu is f**

 

I made my roommate go through the car and check the wiring, there was a mixup somehow between the TPS signal, PCS output and IAT signal. The IAT got killed in the process.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by calvinPGMFI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it still doesn't run after cut j1 then the ecu is f**</TD></TR></TABLE>

pretty much sumes it up right there!

when Q 31 blows 50%chance it will blow off ethier the pad or a tracer,if it blows a pad it can be fixed but is hard as hell.if it lifted a trace your ecu is [freak]ed.did it leave burn marks on the ecu case?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zccr-xsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

pretty much sumes it up right there!

when Q 31 blows 50%chance it will blow off ethier the pad or a tracer,if it blows a pad it can be fixed but is hard as hell.if it lifted a trace your ecu is [freak]ed.did it leave burn marks on the ecu case?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've repaired boards that had large chunks missing... anything is repairable. A blown trace or lifted trace is far from a total loss.

 

Yup I've repaired boards before too, thing is there are no burn marks or anything in the board. I haven't had a chance still to check it, but I'm gonna pull neptune out real quick and try it before I head home.