DntFk_jdm

Well today I just assembled the connecting rods to the pistons and one of the 4 rods is not moving freely. This one rod is giving me a hard time like it is seized up or something.

What I did I used a blow torch to heat and expand the rods. for one of the pistons and rods like when I slide the wrist pin and rod isn't the rod supposed to move freely cuz this one is like a little bit seized and had to push it back and forth with my hand and its resisting to move but its not like its tight it moves but its not like its free.

Please guys any ideas if this can be fixed. Did I break a piston or bend the wrist pin. Engine is a h22a pistons are diamond power cast 10:1 and rods are eBay I beam rods. Also I did go a little cheap on the pistons but my cylinder walls are bbbb so im glad to be lucky for that.



PS: if there's anybody in the gta of canada willing to help build my h22 just pm me thanks

DntFk_jdm

Bump!
Heres a video that i uploaded which is the problem of what I mean. Thanks

TomCat39

I've done a bit of watching on the "blow torch" method and one thing everyone cautioned of is you can over heat the rod little end.

In all honesty if I was buying pistons, I'd likely also buy rods so that you can get spiral lock rings instead of having pressed wrist pins. Or pay the machine shop to do the pressings.

For one thing, when they use heat they don't do a blow torch as that isn't an even heat. They have a little rod oven that heats half the rod up.


I've seen mishaps with the blow torch method more than once when researching on youtube for pressed wrist pins.

kr3w108

If its a pressed fit, then it should be tight. If you have a free floating piston the wrist pin should move . It should have a locking pin on each side to hold it.

DntFk_jdm

Thanks I do know all about that but I am also planning to do certain things on my own since its a budget build. I guess only if I busted my piston I will get another 4 and pay to get them pressed.

Even with my honest mistake of torching the rods is my problem a common problem? Is there a way to resolve this? Really dont want to another set of pistons

DntFk_jdm

Kr3w108 yes they are all tight but one of the piston rods isnt moving like the rod isn't turning. It should move freely like a pendulum. Or another example when the piston goes up and down the rods turn side to side

PyroProblem

Many times aftermarket rods need machined to the final clearances. I think they send them that way intentionally so everything can be final honed by the builder. I just had a brand new set of Eagles that needed opened up just a hair on the small end. In fact, my last set of Eagles also needed a bit of machining before installation. Id suggest letting the machine shop check and set your wristpin clearances, and let them install the pistons too while theyre at it. Then all you have to do is install them. Easy peezy.

kr3w108

Well id say that the bushing in that rod is to thick. You would need to take it back apart and mic the wrist pin and the small end of the rod. do that for one of the good rods also , that way you can see where you are at.

DntFk_jdm

OK guess I'll look into some machine shops and see what they can do. I'll let you guys know what happans within the week and will proceed your from your experience pyro

Thanks

DntFk_jdm

Actually just to note I hope its the wrist pin and not the piston as it looks like when I move that rod by pusing and pulling it its the wrist pin grabbing on to the piston wall. It's kinda like a bent wrist pin if possible. Just now I've kinda tapped the wrist pin gently with a hammer so it sticks out a little I see its scoring a bit yikes.

1HGEJ2

iTrader: (1)

I had 1x eagle b18c rod that have the same problem ..bring it to machine shop and they should hone the bronze bushing...then it works good. 2min work

motoxxxman

This engine is a ticking time bomb, because you're using the wrong parts. Aftermarket rods with bronze bushings are designed ONLY for floating wristpins with retainer clips (circlips) in the pistons, NOT a pressed setup. Only stock rods with all steel construction (no bushing) are meant for pressed pins and can not use a floating pin setup.
And the pistons you're using, do they have circlip retainers for the wristpins? I'm guessing no, which means they are meant to only be used with stock rods and pressed setups.
Edit: just watched your video, and I'm sorry but I cringed pretty hard. I can safely say the engine really is a ticking time bomb if that's how you treat your internals. When the rod fell and smacked the other piston, holy hell, I'd murder someone that did that to my internals.
I also could not see any circlips, but it was kinda hard to tell. So yeah, I'm fairly confident you're attempting to use a setup that is not designed to work, and will not work correctly no matter what you do, unless you get new stuff made to work the right way

DntFk_jdm

Thanks for the heads up and info. Guess I cannot use OEM pistons. Im also finding people in my area to help out on my build and this is really my first car engine build. I also took a auto machanics course but didn't make it to the end. The last thing I want is a ticking timebomb

PyroProblem

Take things slow and treat your engine components like a bomb. Gentle and delicate. Make sure your pistons arent damaged after it falling over like that. A bur on the ring land can potentially cause problems down the road.
Being your first build, I can only assume you don't have the tools yet for measuring all the critical clearances. I highly recommend letting a machine shop do all the checks and measuring, and final honing, so then you only have to assemble it.
Being .001" off in the wrong place can result in disaster.
Wrist pin clearance is typically half of that.

DntFk_jdm

Thanks guys for your support. I do have alot of tools but not machines that's the down fall for now I've got a piston ring compressor, valve spring compressor, degree wheel and dial indicator for my cams. The rest is my 500 piece of snap ons set.

DntFk_jdm

Is there a way to close this theard or should I leave it open?

motoxxxman

actually I'd leave it open. you'd be surprised what kinds of threads pop up years later by people with similar issues but additional questions

flesh199

Its pretty normal to open up the small end hole on lower budjet connecting rod.No big deal for your machine shop to do this.