As some of you know I broke a motor in Ohio. After final disassembly I discovered several issues. The first thing I noticed is that the flywheel bolt holes were wallowed out but none of the bolts had backed out. Second the alternator belt had flipped but the dampener was tight. Removed the dampener bolt and the key had sheared in half and the dampener had spun about 1/8" BUT somehow looked as if you had welded it to the crank, it would not budge. There was slag like it had been hit with an arc welder and the pulley could only be removed with a torch. Internally the oil pump was shrapnel. Most of the rod bearings were good to OK. #1 and #5 mains were pretty rough but 2,3,4 were marked but not scarred.
It really struck me as odd the crank pulley being basically welded to the crank.

The question I have is this was a fresh motor with new Manley turbo tuff rods, CP pistons and an eagle non-lightened crank.

I am not sure if the problem started with the flywheel, dampener, or the eagle crank. The crank is the only part I have not used before.

I need professional replies not guesses.

 

I had a loose flywheel cause the damper to come off once, which killed the oil pump. Are you still using the CC twin disc? What bolts did you use to attach it to the crank?

 

D-autos. Just new ones. Same as I had used before.

 

i had problems with the d auto bolts when tightened to 80fts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philipwight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had problems with the d auto bolts when tightened to 80fts. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you increase or decrease torque?

 

i hit it with a 1/2 impact till it wouldnt go anymore. not going to ruin another tilton flywheel.

 

the crank was spinning but the balancer stopped. this is why it welded itself to the crank

 

I dont think the dampener spun. There are no circular marks in the pulley or on the crank to say it spun around.

 

My opinion is that the loose flywheel bolts caused the entire incident. Was the crank bolt loose as well? Even if the balancer only went 1/8", at that RPM with the already tight fit of the aftermarket balancers, could have caused what you are describing there. The exploded oil pump was a byproduct of the first two events.

 

The few Eagle cranks, and most aftermarket cranks, I've installed have a large fillet on the crank snout and required machining the ID of the rear belt guide and sometimes chamfering the rear of the crank timing belt pulley. If not performed, the pulley/damper stack is not really seated against the crank even though the crank pulley bolt torques up. Basically, bottoming on the fillet.

Result is the damper isn't really working, possibly even causing problems. And the damper is free to move on the crank snout and microwelds itself to the crank.

Jim

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The few Eagle cranks, and most aftermarket cranks, I've installed have a large fillet on the crank snout and required machining the ID of the rear belt guide and sometimes chamfering the rear of the crank timing belt pulley. If not performed, the pulley/damper stack is not really seated against the crank even though the crank pulley bolt torques up. Basically, bottoming on the fillet.

Result is the damper isn't really working, possibly even causing problems. And the damper is free to move on the crank snout and microwelds itself to the crank.

Jim

</TD></TR></TABLE>That sounds very reasonable and possible. What is your opinion on the eagle crank? I have heard good and bad things.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpeedDreamz.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That sounds very reasonable and possible. What is your opinion on the eagle crank? I have heard good and bad things.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nothing against any particular brand of low-end, offshore crank. Only have experience w/ the inline four versions, no v8's. I think they all flex and the LW versions are worse, especially w/ increased rpm. I know others have/are using all the various brands successfully. I just don't like what I see on disassembly.

This is just my opinion based on what high-end or modified OE cranks/bearings look like after use.