8VEYBEYB

I put my scat/sysc rods in tonight and just got it all bolted in and wanted to spin the crank so I put in the pulley bolt and tried to spin , nothing , used a breaker bar , and still nothing YES I gapped my rings .019 on top , .021 on bottom..... WTF????

kyden

what are your bearing clearances?

same ol Steve

you did use assembly lube on the bearings,right???????

8VEYBEYB

.001 and a few were .0015 for both. I used assembly lube. I got the crank to spin now I guess I just needed to loosen it up to spin it the first time and now it spins with a little strength and a ratchet on the crank pulley bolt. but still feels kinda tight.... is it supposed to be slightly hard to spin it? I mean I am not standing on one side to spin it and I dont have to put my weight on it but it still feels kinda tight. I have never done this before so I really dont know how it should feel period....:/

srmofo

it should spin pretty damn easy, even with the rods bolted on.....your not another hondatecher that weighs 90lbs soaking wet are you?

if your unsure find another engine, pull the plugs, and see how tough it is to spin that engine. you new one will be a bit tighter but not that much

non-VTEC

you had to loosen what up to get it to spin?

something tells me you will be pulling it all back apart shortly and re-checking the bearings.

did you not spin the crank by hand before you connected the rods to them?

8VEYBEYB

took off the rod caps spinned the crank then put em back on and it spun it seems like it gets tight then loose then tight again......

turbo-crx

my crank was a little tight at first after installing pistons and rods, then it loosened up.

8VEYBEYB

I am 130 and I dont exactly eat my wheaties so amybe thats the problem I onno.... I really dont wanna waste all the effort I have made though.... I think its the pistons if its anything....

b20beast83

see how it spins with just the crank and mains.
also re check your main and rod bearings.

vtechjunkie

iTrader: (2)

Did you hone the cylinder walls? I just got done with a build on my b16 w/ rods, pistons, and all the bearings. It isn't "hand loose", but it ain't free spinning either. I think that is because the hone is abrasive against the rings. I believe it will get easier as the motor breaks in. GL with the build.

8VEYBEYB

If I had to describe it Its almost take the same amount of strength to roll up the window in my 95 civic

vtechjunkie

iTrader: (2)

Your in good shape then.

90blackcrx

What is he has power windows

8VEYBEYB

lol its a DX no power windows for me lol ,

I just went and spun the crank on my HF motor and it was almost the same , the HF motor was a bit easier but it is broke in already and everything so think I am okay... what if things are a little tighter than they should be , what could happen?

NLR808

mine worried me a bit at first was hard to spin then the rings got broken in and its better now

8VEYBEYB

I guess tonight I will double check my bearings and then try again. I mean it seems fine now but I dont want all my effort to be a waste. thanks for your help guys any other help is much appreciated. and by the way , NLR808 what bearings/rods/pistons you running? how many miles on your motor?

Albuquerquefx

They will always be just a tad bit stiff because of the new rings; I typically douse my cylinder walls with WD40 before dropping the new pistons / rings into the bores. Helps with getting them in, helps testing the ease of the rotating assembly, and helps with the first time you fire up the motor.

Make sure to keep a few fat rare-earth magnets on your oil filter and near your drain plug for the first few hundred miles. A small amount of debris will come off the rings and potentially your bearings as they break in. You don't want that crap floating around in the motor...

ValleySyder

make sure the rod caps are put on the right way .. grooved side.. on same side or it will not spin .. and if it does spin with the rod caps on backwards.. prepare to have some nice scars and scores on your bearings

double check all your rod caps...

ValleySyder

im almost 95% sure he has the rod caps on backwards... hence the reason he cant spin it ..

if u did take everything apart and inspect your bearings... they wont be pretty with all the force u put on it tryin to spin it ..

8VEYBEYB

cant see facebook at work ... can you embed the vid?

forcdincivic

if you torque down the headstuds and you cant spin it with your hand with a little more then a flick of the wrist. Somethings wrong. Check the bearings like most have said on here....make sure they are sitting tight and there arent ANY scuffs from when you placed the head on.

8VEYBEYB

see this confuses me , some say it should be tight with new rings....some say a flick of the wrist and it should spin.....what is it....

arc_55

Every cylinder assembled usually i measure the resitance with my digital torque wrench. this can give you an understanding of the drag through each cylinder or main cap installed. This usually allows you to detect problems early when assembling. It should be less then 8 ft.lbs per cylinder drag. this is obviously dependant on your clerances but you will see a pattern as you begin to assemble this way.

ninesecrx

Engine should always be able to spin free. Sounds like your main bearings might be tight? Even though the crank is new, they sometimes come bent. I would try to spin the crank in the block with nothing attached. It should be spun easily by hand with no wrench.