<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RMF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How can you have a radius rod on both sides of the lower control arm and not have it bind up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My traction bars only go on one side of the LCA... don't know what you're referring to here... the binding in the EF setup comes from the pivot at the inner joint having to play front/rear, not from two radius rods. Do the EG/EKs join at both sides?

 

I was using that as an example .but it pivits in the rear and then with bars in the front it can't move.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RMF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How can you have a radius rod on both sides of the lower control arm and not have it bind up.Something has to get longer when it goes up and down.I don't know how many front suspensions you have built.But sit down and look at one real close.Then tell me how you can have a radius on the front and the back.And still have the suspension go up and down.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i havent built many front suspensions, but i know what you are saying..since the traction bars are pretty much solid, the caster will be 'ever changing' however..... we arent talking dirt oval cars, or off road trucks.... this is fwd 4 banger dragrace bullshit.

my car doesnt have much, if any front suspension travel. with the spring rates, shock dampening/rebound,the limit straps, and the "traction bars"... dont forget, the most important part..... the wheelie bars..... about .25 off the track, on the line..... the front tires grow, and the rear squats, the bars are now on track....

tell me how much front suspension travel you need when going straight down the lane. its all in your tires.

 

No your wrong there.You need atleast 1" of travel or its going to bounce and lose traction.Haven't you seen A car with the struts welded ?It bounces all the way down.Tires have no dampning.

 

You can have 3 pivot points if they are all in line with one another. They will all move on the same arc. Picture it as one big triangle. Now, as for "traction bars", the name doesn't really imply what they are. They are a very simple device that helps stop the suspension bushings from moving. Simply replacing the bushings with solid bushings would do the same thing as long as the control arms don't flex.

 

stock motor mounts very important

 

The stiffer and solid ones have too much vibration, i hate it, all my change in the ashtray vibrates around making noise.

 

If the front suspension design on the 3000GT is anything like a 2G DSM, traction bars are out of the question as it will make the arms bind when you try to turn the steering wheel.

I've know a few people to run pretty stiff rears on FWD cars...seems to work alright. You can do it for $10 if you know a few little tricks. It's a lot cheaper then picking up $6000 in shocks even though the $6000 in shocks is the 'right' way to do it.

 

Why is that? How is the suspension setup that would cause it to bind when you turn the wheel?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why is that? How is the suspension setup that would cause it to bind when you turn the wheel? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i would like to know also.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RMF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No your wrong there.You need atleast 1" of travel or its going to bounce and lose traction.Haven't you seen A car with the struts welded ?It bounces all the way down.Tires have no dampning.</TD></TR></TABLE>


what do you think about rwd cars that have no suspension(rail cars) i find it hard to belive that the car will bounce all over. but than again, i havent tried it. yet........

 

Have you ever seen that wing on the back of a fuel car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Billy T. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you ever seen that wing on the back of a fuel car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

spectacular

your telling me that wing, keeps *** from bouncing..

....ok well what about them 8.90 bracket dragters without rear wings. .......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> spectacular

your telling me that wing, keeps *** from bouncing..

....ok well what about them 8.90 bracket dragters without rear wings. .......</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't think that at 330mph that there isn't any downforce on that wing?

The 8.90 cars bounce all over the place, but also remember that the whole car flexes and provides some kind of suspension, it isn't all left up to the tires.

Trying to compare the suspension dynamics of a purpose built car with a 300" wheel base to that of a uni body car with a 100" inch wheelbase isn't going to get you anywhere.

But don't let that stop you from running a solid front suspension. I would love to hear how it works out for you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Billy T. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You don't think that at 330mph that there isn't any downforce on that wing?

The 8.90 cars bounce all over the place, but also remember that the whole car flexes and provides some kind of suspension, it isn't all left up to the tires.

Trying to compare the suspension dynamics of a purpose built car with a 300" wheel base to that of a uni body car with a 100" inch wheelbase isn't going to get you anywhere.

But don't let that stop you from running a solid front suspension. I would love to hear how it works out for you.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, id like to see what happens.

 

Here is a little fun fact .At 300 mph the wing on a top fuel car has 10,000lbs of down force.Thats ten thousand pounds.Thats why they don't bounce.Have you seen one blow the tires at about 60 ft and shut off.They bounce all the way down the track.I have worked on fuel cars and fuel funny cars my whole life.

 

bouncing is from getting on the brakes to hard

 

then its turns the tire in to big bouncing ball

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Import Power Online &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use the Profec B spec II for boost control</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's the shittiest boost controller on earth...

Get a Dual Stage Manual and report back, trooper...

 

Also from getting out of it fast.The tires grow like a bitch when they bust them loose.Then they shrink then they Bounce

 

profec B spec II is great, holds my turbos rock steady at 35psi. Never any issues with it.

 

I tried to help you earlier, but you didn't want to answer my questions. Are you turning the boost down in 1st and 2nd gear?

 

sorry about that. No I am not. They are kinda large turbos so boost should inherintly be lower in 1st and partially in second. I just run the one set psi which is 35psi peak.
I also have a wetshot that I will start using once I get the traction issue under control. Already sliding around at 140mph across the line is scary enough.

I do have the new MT ET Streets on the fed ex truck for delivery today. My old ones are SHOT, 3 seasons on them.
Pics of the worn ET Streets I have been running.
http://3sforum.com/ipoalbums/etstreet

That with the new Eibach ERS springs for the rear GCs should do some good. I was running 300 pounders and have 650 pound springs on the way.

 

I would suggest a multi stage boost controller, it'll do wonders for you, i promise...

 

While I beleive you, I worry about losing power while in that lower setting. But I guess more traction will net a much better ET in the end.

The Profec B Spec II is a dual setting hi/lo EBC. I could set the lower one at like 15psi.

 

The 2G DSM front suspension uses a dual lower control arm setup. The arms are separate and have two separate lower ball joints. As the hub pivots around the front arm, the back arm has to move in this weird arc. As it moves thru the arc, it pushs the front arm back and forth. If you tied into the front arm with a traction bar, the front arm would not be able to move back and forth and the only amount of steering you could do would be because of the flex in the rear bushing of the rear control arm. If you replaced the rubber with heim joints, the car could not steer at all.

Here's a crappy little diagram of what I am talking about.