I know it's not a honda, but I think there is more FWD Drag experience here than on most other boards.

I am having traction issues with my car. My MT ET Streets are worn out but I have new ones coming in wednesday. I still get too much rear squat though using Ground controls and KYBs (non adjustable)

I am running 135-139MPH but can't break 10's due to traction.
11.3 @ 137.89 is my best ET and 11.5 @ 139.67 is my best MPH.
I can't get out of the 1.9 60 foot range. Plus 2nd and 3rd all the way across the line spin the tires.

What would be the best rear suspension setup? Would a solid rear help or hurt?

 

lose some weight
slipper clutch?
Pre loading i presume?
slidin clutch outta first
and stiff as hell springs in rear
softers up front

i know ur not a civic but starting points
im sure weight has alot to do with your problem, and how much power u makin right outta the box

maybe lower power NET better 60s

d

 

Solid rear might end up putting you into a wall. Whatever solution you go with, don't do that.

Also, what size tire are you runnning?

 

running 26X10.5 16" MT ET Streets.

I am at 3080 with me in it. Which is pretty light for this car.

 

and preloading the rear or front and rear?

 

How much power are you making? How much can you turn down the boost in 1st gear? What is the min. amount of power you can give it in 1st gear?

 

I am around 750 crank
3100 pounds doing 140mph in the 1/4

 

If you answer the rest of my question then maybe we can help you.

 

I use the Profec B spec II for boost control

 

Well, good luck with it buddy...

 

higher rate rear springs? limtiing straps up front?

 

alot of people are hinting at reducing off the line power. u might wanna invest in a multi stage boost controller.

the high rate rear spring is a good thing to have too, and shouldnt cost more than 150 dollars for that

 

Do you have the Dr lsd.Whats your setup. SIngle turbo or dual.

 

it's twin turbo, I have LSD. I will call eibach today to see what stiffer rear springs I can get for the GCs.

 

If its solid.How could it be suspension.Do you mean A straight axle?

 

solid meaning yeah, no real suspension.

What about the rake? Currently I have the GCs setup with the rear as high as they go and the front as low as they go to rake thefront down. Should I do this or should I also drop the rear down?

Others have told me to chain the front down to limit travel. Should I think about doing that?

 

If you pull the front down with limit straps or chains or what ever.Its like running it solid.There is no suspension.To do it right you get your ride height with the strut.And limit the travel with spring pressure.You want it to sit near the top of the travel.So when you leave it tops out in the strut not a strap.So what you need to do is have your strut shortened to the ride height that you want.

 

surprised no1 has said to use slicks. with that much power, i would have invested in a nice set of slicks a long time ago.

Get some traction bars, raise the front a lil, and oh yeah....slicks!

 

for a 3100 pound car with 700+ HP, would 1000 pound springs for the rear GCs be a good rate? Or is that too high?

Currently they are 800.250.300 (300 pound)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek9vboi2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">surprised no1 has said to use slicks. with that much power, i would have invested in a nice set of slicks a long time ago.

Get some traction bars, raise the front a lil, and oh yeah....slicks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its front wheel drive.What are traction bars gonna do? Bind up the front end so it won't go up and down?Because thats all they do.Traction bars do not work in the front.I want someone to explain to me why they think that they do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RMF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I want someone to explain to me why they think that they do.</TD></TR></TABLE>

explain how/ what they bind? and why you think they dont work. if you have a better design/idea, id like to see/hear about it.

i know that they can help with caster, as well as keeping the car from wheel hoping. it stabilizes the lower control arm, from moving up and down, as well as front to back....so your tires are not flying in every direction....

edit..

i dont know about you, i like all my power going to the ground, instead of moving my control arms around.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RMF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Its front wheel drive.What are traction bars gonna do? Bind up the front end so it won't go up and down?Because thats all they do.Traction bars do not work in the front.I want someone to explain to me why they think that they do.</TD></TR></TABLE>

traction bars elminate wheel hop for FWD cars. Thats if he can even get traction, with slicks he might catch traction instead of slipping thru all the gears. you gotta remember, a car making 700+

binding only happens when the bars are not set correctly, that or there is a design flaw in the traction bars. the point of traction bars is to prevent the caster from moving back and fouth, thus breaking stuff. when that happens...wheel hop occurs.

funny you say traction bars do not work, maybe for you it dont but there are plenty of people who say it works.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

explain how/ what they bind? and why you think they dont work. if you have a better design/idea, id like to see/hear about it.

i know that they can help with caster, as well as keeping the car from wheel hoping. it stabilizes the lower control arm, from moving up and down, as well as front to back....so your tires are not flying in every direction....</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Called a few suspension places nd they recommended not going as high as 1000 as it would force the body to flex since the suspension would be so tight. It would end up "chattering" and skipping around. So we went with 650 pound springs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

explain how/ what they bind? and why you think they dont work. if you have a better design/idea, id like to see/hear about it.

i know that they can help with caster, as well as keeping the car from wheel hoping. it stabilizes the lower control arm, from moving up and down, as well as front to back....so your tires are not flying in every direction....

edit..

i dont know about you, i like all my power going to the ground, instead of moving my control arms around.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How can you have a radius rod on both sides of the lower control arm and not have it bind up.Something has to get longer when it goes up and down.I don't know how many front suspensions you have built.But sit down and look at one real close.Then tell me how you can have a radius on the front and the back.And still have the suspension go up and down.