ranta18

I did this years back on my all motor H22 street car and had a hard time keeping it warm even with holes.

One thought... what about cutting the tube behind the block between the thermostat housing and stock water pump and installing the pump lines there? It would act like the stock pump.

ALL IMPORT

tepid1. everyone is always trying to run cooler, yet your putting in heater elements everywhere, lol.

ahobbs

I think that's a great idea. If there is room

ranta18

There is room. I mocked it up. Mounted the pump on the lower crossmember next to the firewall and made a new tube on the back.

The discussion from 9/06: https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/%22true%22-electric-water-pump-1744075/

tepid1

Well, without the heater the car struggles to get up to temp. The heater helps, but it doesn't seem to get too far past 110 degrees with the engine off. My oil heater gets the oil up to about 100 degrees as well. I just didn't want to beat on a cold motor. lol

JDogg

with the aem ems you could use a solid state relay hooked up to the user pw output based on coolant temp to control the pump speed.

crazydominicanman

Bump this thread. I'm looking into this setup.

Jsarv

Bringing this thread back from the dead. I run a meziere 20gpm pump on an h22 ej with a s366 turbo. At idle and cruise its getting hot. Also running an All in Fan tucked radiator and a surge tank...

Has anyone tried running the electric pump in tandem with the OE pump as a booster pump?

Or do I need to have CRRacing make me a new radiator.....???

redboost10

Does your all in fab peice have one large opening for the fan or just slits cut?

Jsarv

Its a full shroud with essentially a round opening for the fan....

redboost10

I've seen a few that have the fan mounted internally in the shroud and just has a few slits machined out to let the air escape...wasn't sure what the reasoning was behind that.

Jsarv

Well that's sort of on the agenda... I fabbed a surge tank and mounted it where the battery used to be (keeps coolant level way above engine) but this only slowed down the car warming up... by like 5 min. I'd rather figure a way out to make what I have sufficient but it seems like everyone I talk to says the all in fan radiator is too dense to be a dual pass as well as too "short" and also suggested the thickness and fin density is the major problem. I've considered cutting 4 squares in the shroud and riveting rubber on the top side to allow air to pass through at speed but also allow the fan to work in the shroud properly while not moving.... throwing the OE pump back in, in tandem was also an idea I had but was not sure how the mechanical pump would react to water being forced into it by the electric pump....

redboost10

Yes, I've heard and seen a lot of customers complain of heating issues with the all in setup

Jsarv

So he sells an over priced nicely welded hunk of aluminum? Sweet.... and he won't even answer his phone... lolz

redboost10

Pmed you

Jsarv

Looks like CRRacing is going to be the answer... what are your opinions on a electric/stock pump combo spinning an H 9000?

Twenty47

lots of big name racers are running All in fab rads with no issues



mine is tiny and kept my car more than cool running in 90 degree weather last weekend. 175 degrees max.




i believe jake gavio runs a dual pass full size rad from derek like you mentioned.

Jsarv

Then what gives?

locash

If you are running the All In Fab tucked radiator with the fans he provides, do yourself a favor and get some better Spal fans.