Drag Racing Drag Racing (legal) & Associated Topics

Kill switch setup, will it work?

Old Jan 17, 2006 | 06:29 PM
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Default Kill switch setup, will it work?




Not for anti theft, but for NHRA legality.


I think I got everything, covered. Will it work?
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 07:08 PM
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Default Re: Kill switch setup, will it work? (4door_demon)

from what that looks like to me that it will just cut the battery off with the car will still run. am i correct? you need to runa wire from the alt back to the on side and wire from the off side to the fuse box
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 07:08 PM
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Default Re: Kill switch setup, will it work? (4door_demon)

no.

the alt has to go to the battery before the switch orelse it wont shut the car off when the switch is pushed in..
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 07:16 PM
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Default

Damn, I was trying to avoid running so many wires . Any links to a good diagram I can follow?


Nevermind i think I got it. Thanks.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 07:25 PM
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Default

More like this?

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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 08:22 PM
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Default Re: (4door_demon)

yep!
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 08:25 PM
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Default Re: (99Hybrid_Hatch)

Cool.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 06:11 AM
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Default Re: (4door_demon)

Now that the correct wiring path has been established, what gauge wiring should I run from the Alt to the switch and the switch to the fuse box\starter?


Once I know that I should be good to go.


Thanks for all the help guys.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 06:30 AM
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Default Re: (4door_demon)

I ran 4 gauge for mine but it laggs a little (starter) so I would say 2 gauge would be best..
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 08:34 AM
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Default Re: (99Hybrid_Hatch)

I ran 2 aut (not sure on spelling) it was actually cheaper to go to catapillar and buy a 50 ft. welding lead 2 aut cable. It is very fine stranded and i think it was around $70. I had 2 cars to do so it was worth it.

The cable is very flexable also.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 09:08 AM
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Default Re: (ImportMotorSpec)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ImportMotorSpec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ran 2 aut (not sure on spelling) it was actually cheaper to go to catapillar and buy a 50 ft. welding lead 2 aut cable. It is very fine stranded and i think it was around $70. I had 2 cars to do so it was worth it.

The cable is very flexable also.</TD></TR></TABLE>


How many feet you think I would need for a 4 door? Did you run under the car or through the car?

I was thinking of maybe running the wires through the exhaust tunnel, covered by heat protectent tape. Good, not so good?
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 01:23 PM
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Default Re: (4door_demon)

I ran mine in the car down the pass side..
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 06:53 PM
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Default Re: (99Hybrid_Hatch)

i used 0 gauge when i relocated my battery in my truck just to be safe.... better to be safe than sorry
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 08:49 PM
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Default Re: (xtremeness101)

I would run them through the car, just like your installing a stereo.

Much easier than under car and a lot safer.

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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 09:50 PM
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Default Re: (ImportMotorSpec)

Another option to consider, If your battery is up front still or whatever the case.
You could do a Flaming River kill switch w/ A push pull cable, that runs from the rear bumper to the FR kill switch. This would just prevent running huge heavy leads back and forth. Looking much nicer also.
Checkout their website.
You would have to get the push pull cables from someone else.
You would use their lever switch.

Justa thought
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 07:59 PM
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Default Re: (FMUNK)

good info
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 03:58 AM
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Default Re: (ImportMotorSpec)

double aut , ott ot, yeah it is stick welding grounding cable. i had it on my cutlass. we used to run them on the buicks as well.
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