How do you hook up a MSD two step?
I was going to wire it into the clutch so when you push the clutch in it actiavtes the two step then when you leave it out it deactiaves it. But what happens when you go to shift to second and push the clutch in? Does it reactivate the two step? I am trying to figure out how to wire this up. I heard some people say you need a relay other people say you need a push button switch. So how do you guys do it? TIA
I would like to stay away from a switch. Less things to worrry about pushing or doing. Anyone know how to make it work off the clutch?
ok ill be nice...
hook it up to your clutch switch...
Here use this, its the same ****
http://www.dsm-performance.com/hard_stutter.php
hook it up to your clutch switch...
Here use this, its the same ****
http://www.dsm-performance.com/hard_stutter.php
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i have it on a switch.. i like it its taped to the shifter very easy to use... if you put it on the clutch it kinda defeates a purpose.. because yes it does hold the rpm but as soon as you launch the rpm will rise allowing you to keep spiing the wheel if you keep it activated for a lil bit longer it will give you a controled burn out and as soon as your hooking up then you can hit the switch off and go.
Download this and go into the second page, thats the best way to install, according to the msdtech guy. http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/pn8739-8737.pdf
I got this reply from a msd tech:There is 2 ways to wire the 2 Step, one is simple and the other is a little more complicated. The figure 1 is the basic hook up using a micro switch or a push button switch that has to be mounted on the shifter. When you apply the 12 volts through the push button switch this will activate the launch limit, (module 1), when you release it will automatically go back to the high limit, (module 2).
The figure 2 diagram shows using a micro switch at the clutch pedal and a push button switch at the shifter. This diagram will activate the launch limit at take off only; it will not activate it through the gears as you are shifting. The way the diagram is set up is when you are at the line you will activate the push button first then activate the clutch, once the clutch is activate you can now release the push button so the reaction will be upon releasing the clutch pedal, which will be much faster and accurate than the figure #1. Unfortunately you will have to wire it up as the diagram and it will also require purchasing a push button for the shifter and a relay, PN 8961. The micro switch must be used and mounted on the clutch pedal, which you will have to mount yourself. If the vehicle has a clutch switch currently you may be able to use the current switch as long as it supplies 12 volts and not ground. If you still have trouble wiring the system you may want to take it to your local speed shop to see if they can wire it for you.
Thanks,
msdtech2
The figure 2 diagram shows using a micro switch at the clutch pedal and a push button switch at the shifter. This diagram will activate the launch limit at take off only; it will not activate it through the gears as you are shifting. The way the diagram is set up is when you are at the line you will activate the push button first then activate the clutch, once the clutch is activate you can now release the push button so the reaction will be upon releasing the clutch pedal, which will be much faster and accurate than the figure #1. Unfortunately you will have to wire it up as the diagram and it will also require purchasing a push button for the shifter and a relay, PN 8961. The micro switch must be used and mounted on the clutch pedal, which you will have to mount yourself. If the vehicle has a clutch switch currently you may be able to use the current switch as long as it supplies 12 volts and not ground. If you still have trouble wiring the system you may want to take it to your local speed shop to see if they can wire it for you.
Thanks,
msdtech2
I wire all of our cars up over the E-brake with a relay, just allows you to preload the clutch a little and not drag forward before you're supposed to. It's not that bad to wire up, here's a diagram I made awhile back but it's for the Innovative MSBC so ignore all the boost controller stuff if you do so. Good Luck
Kataku2K3 Thanks for the diagram. I used it today and it worked great.
I have a few more questions for people that use the two step.
Does it harm anything when it is back firing like that? I was watching my wideband and it looked like it was leaning out everytime it would pop but shouldn't it be running rich b/c it is cutting the spark and still dumping fuel in? I am blowing like 2 foot flames out the back.
Do you normally need to retune when you add the two step or should I be fine with my current tune?
I have a few more questions for people that use the two step.
Does it harm anything when it is back firing like that? I was watching my wideband and it looked like it was leaning out everytime it would pop but shouldn't it be running rich b/c it is cutting the spark and still dumping fuel in? I am blowing like 2 foot flames out the back.
Do you normally need to retune when you add the two step or should I be fine with my current tune?
Good to hear, as for why you're running lean on the 2-step that's not good or right. You're correct, you should be rich. What ignition box/coil are you running? If you have something like a Digi 6/7/10+ you have the ability to retard your 2-step. As for your tuning, there's no reason why you should have to do so. (unless you do have one of the higher up ignitions and are using it to control timing for some reason). How lean does it go while you're on your 2-step?
I just connect my two step mudule to my steering wheel horn button. I don't even need to buy an extra push button activation switch rather using the existing horn botton. When Im ready to race I simply disconnect the horn and tap into the existing wiring going to the horn. Just simply press the horn button and Im good to go
I am running the MSD SCI. I have to watch the wideband closer and take note of the numbers. I will try and do that tonight and post the results. It should be backfiring pretty loud right?
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that's a good diagram
which way provides the best results and most consistent launches? through the ebrake or the way the msdtech describes with the relay, momentary button and clutch switch?
the msdtech advised me to wire it the same way.
which way provides the best results and most consistent launches? through the ebrake or the way the msdtech describes with the relay, momentary button and clutch switch?
the msdtech advised me to wire it the same way.
I don't really know which way would be more consistent for sure but over the E-brake works best for us. The reason I do this is because the cars on bigger slicks tend to roll a little at the line, and as I mentioned before it allows you to preload the clutch which will drag you forward unless you have some sort of brake on. When you launch just drop the E-brake, 2-step turns off and you're set. As for wiring it over the horn switch, I've also tried that in the past but it's not like it's any simpler, you still have to use a relay to reverse the polarity as the horn control is over a ground trigger. It also really depends on your setup with how load it pops, on our FI cars when we're building a couple lbs. of boost it sounds like gunshots, the NA cars tend to sound more like a crazy (fast) rev limiter...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatch4urSnatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so, from my understanding, the momentary button isn't needed
also, what do you use to "T" off the 12v wire to 85 and 30?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i used two seperate wires and ran a wire to 85 and 30 then twisted them together and connected them to the 12v
also, what do you use to "T" off the 12v wire to 85 and 30?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i used two seperate wires and ran a wire to 85 and 30 then twisted them together and connected them to the 12v
That's basically what I do too, just take one piece of wire cut about a 1cm strip of the insulation off then solder on another. Makes a simple clean "T" or "Y" which you can shrink wrap...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93LSivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not use the one that is built into your EMS?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I heard of people having problems with the aem ems one. They said they would set it and when they tried to use it, it would go way past where they set it. I had it laying around so I figured I would wire it up and try it out. Maybe one day I will try the one on the ems but as for now I will use the msd one.
I heard of people having problems with the aem ems one. They said they would set it and when they tried to use it, it would go way past where they set it. I had it laying around so I figured I would wire it up and try it out. Maybe one day I will try the one on the ems but as for now I will use the msd one.
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