I just sold my Jun III's, and I'm going to pick up a set of the Jun Killer cams in about a month or so...

I have jun valvesprings and retainers. With these cams, will I be safe with that valvetrain? Also what should be the install height?? I have a GSR head, will the stock LMA have enough travel?? I don't want to snap a cam..

I sold my Jun III's to a buddy, so when I tune my motor, i will do back-to-back tests of both cams to see which ones make more power...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Al Bundy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How come no one is posting a dyno chart? Are these cams just all hype?</TD></TR></TABLE>

most people are waiting to tune their car, or like me i'm not gonna tune it until the build up which is mid may, camp has people getting theirs dynoed as soon as the motors break in... just give a little more time.

I will personally say from my butt dyno these are NOT hype they are GREAT cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMotorEF9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am getting a set of EF-1 Super cams, while he builds my M24 Custom Jun Killers, i will dyno it with both setups and let yall know the difference.... i assume the Super cams are about like a Toda B or so....

My setup:
84.5mm bored B18b Golden Eagle Sleeved and Guarded
GSR JUN Ported and polished head with SS valves
Wiseco 12.5:1 pistons
Edelbrock Victor X manifold
RC 310cc
Vortech Fuel rail
SARD FPR
Custom 1 3/4" primaries header
Toda Cam gears
Unorthodox crank pulley
eagle rods, all new honda accessories
fresh re-build
cometeic head gasket
6 puck ACT clutch clutch masters flywheel
70mm throttle body
custom EF-1 ValveSprings and retainers
chipped PR3 ecu
VAFC

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290296821
check out my album


so we will see what she dyno's</TD></TR></TABLE>

im gonna try to ship these out to you today. and they are alot bigger than toda B's, these cams are freaking huge. hope you dont care if your car doesnt idle very well, and these cams start pulling HARD at 6k

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TEAMGENDAI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey camp1320 can i have a set of those jun killers? pretty please!! </TD></TR></TABLE>Camp has been banned again. I don't know why or when.

 

i have contacted camp1320 (or camp), he said that the M24 is back ordered.
if anyone can sell me at set at his price, i am willing to dyno test it right away.
i have a 1.8L with 12.5:1 compresssion. right now i'm running CTR cams.

 

still no dyno #'s on these things.

 

so is therety any dyno numbers on these cams cant wait to see

 

dyno's pls

 

Hey, we got a pretty killer motor right now. With JUN 3's in it.

Alot of HP.

Send us over some of these cams, and we can try them. If they make more power, I will post up the graphs.

Jeff

 

Someone send IB a set asap.Its about time we get someone who is ready to dyno them for the rest of us.

 

besides the fact that jeff from IB has shown some type interest in this thread, i just wish it would go away. this seems to b the longest running thread with no results since the header tech thread.

 

I understand. I heard alot of things too.

I just want everyone to know the truth. We would do this test this week if they want.

Jeff

 

I tell you what,I'm willing to buy a set for a lower price and have them sent to IB for some dyno testing.If they dont make more power then the jun cams i want my refund like you said.How does that sounds?

EDITage 4 ownage.Damn I didnt think this thread would have gone this far.

 

hurry before IB stops tuning

 

They added some new cams to there line up.Some higher than the jun killers.Here is the list that i got from http://ef-1.com but im not sure if thats at 1mm.

M20--&gt; 274 duration 11.5mm lift. Available in Regrind
M21 --&gt; 274 duration 11.6mm lift. Forced Induction (FI), NA for Smaller motors
M22 --&gt; 284 duration 12.1mm lift. Strong NA, Wild FI
M23 --&gt; 292 duration 12.1mm lift. Spicy NA
M24 --&gt; 298 duration 12.1mm lift. "JUN Killer" NA Drag
M24E --&gt; 303 duration 12.7mm lift
M25 --&gt;310 duration 12.1mm lift High RPM NA Drag
M25E --&gt;316 duration 13.25mm lift

 

I think these are hype cams. No one wanna show charts

 

almost 3 months...just a lot of empty dyno chart promises.....if your gonna name them jun killers, PROVE IT....dont just mouth and keep claiming youll have dyno this and that timeand when time comes around have a excuse or nothing at all

 

You're all ******* kidding me I hope. You give the thumbs down and **** for something not many people have. Most of the people who have bought these cams put them in a freshly built motor. Why don't you go to the site and look around yourselves and instead of talking **** about them, ask about them on there. JUN killer's are the name of them because Rocket's friend ran JUN's in their racecar which was tuned to it's potential pretty much. The guy swapped over to the JUN killers and without much tuning turned out the JUN 3's. He runs in the 11's. I can understand why you all wnat dynos but don't give the products a thumbs down because you don't know **** about them. Name me one other cam manufacturer who is willing to give a refund if power is not made from before. I'm done.

 

http://www.ef-1.com/modules.ph...&t=16

 

no actually we arent kidding. rocket is a great guy and a great seller and id like to see his product take off. problem i have it ppl jumping on the bandwagon with the hype of something like this.
freshly built motors my ***, u talk to any old school engine builder and they basically say the same thing about break in. take a fresh motor, go to the track, make 3 hard passes then ironically ur damn vacuum pressure comes up. u ask me why???? because ur vacuum pressure comes up once the rings are seated. so lets see here. u dont go to the track, u drive to a backroad make 3 hard passes instead. whooptie do ur rings r seated. next weekend u make a dyno appt. its not that hard to do.
fact of the matter is, if somethings goin to go **** up in a fresh motor its goin to happen whether u baby it or rod the hell outta it. if u have fresh cams in it, i would however start the car and let it idle until the fan kicked on. usually that only takes about 20 minutes.

 

too bad the rings don't always seat properly after those 3 passes. i would only break in a "race" motor like that, not a daily driven one.

 

actually jinx, i would agree to a point. that type of break in shouldnt b a problem in a NA motor but i know u had a FI motor which i would break in different.

 

Well unlike you other people don't believe in breaking in their motors that way. Honestly I believe that yes indeed your rings are seated within the first 20 or so minutes after initial start up. From what I gather most people here tend to break in their motor gradually. You talk about bandwagon hype? This place is chock full of them. You make no mention of how there is a guarantee to make power or your money back. I have never ever seen an offer like that. Have you? If so state it I always want to learn more. Like I said though not many people have these cams so you can't expect immediate dynos and results. I gave you one example of why the cams are named what they are. Tell me if you were a manufacturer of a product that beat a well known product that you wouldn't push it hard. I know I'd be ******* proud of it. Hell it shows with every manufacturer, it's what pushes this industry further.

 

You know what? Instead of people throwing **** back and forth how about everyone just waits until more sets get sold and more dynos will come. I mean really what else can anyone do? If you are interested in the cams then just check the site if you're not then use whatever has been working for you so far.

Edit: I wouldn't mind seeing Jeff do the cam swap into the car with the JUN 3's.

 

[QUOTE
freshly built motors my ***, u talk to any old school engine builder and they basically say the same thing about break in. take a fresh motor, go to the track, make 3 hard passes then ironically ur damn vacuum pressure comes up. u ask me why???? [/QUOTE]

I think what people mean by fresh set-ups, has nothing to do with break-in... on a fresh setup, you have no baseline... if you have a "not-fresh" motor with Jun III's you can swap in the Rocket Cams, and boom you have a comparison, with a fresh setup, you don't know how much power they made over a Jun cam...