Paint Maintenance
Were you able to get some pictures of the red flakes?
09-13-2013, 05:42 PM
#52
09-14-2013, 08:05 PM
#55
Re: Paint Maintenance
Don't have pictures, just think of small pits in the paint left from pebbles, 1-2mm in diameter with bits of rust forming. Also, think of a scratch from a nail deep enough that it's rusting. Prep-pen? I may just buy it, no one seems to really know much about them.
09-15-2013, 10:40 AM
#56
Re: Paint Maintenance
I've seen that a few times on pearl paint jobs. Freaked me out the first time I saw it too.
The prep pen could work, I like the idea of having a sanding stick that's easier to control. Either way to you do it, wetsand or prep pen, sand it down, fill in the chip/scratch with touch up paint, let it COMPLETELY dry, wet sand again and polish out. Should have good results if you're patient
The prep pen could work, I like the idea of having a sanding stick that's easier to control. Either way to you do it, wetsand or prep pen, sand it down, fill in the chip/scratch with touch up paint, let it COMPLETELY dry, wet sand again and polish out. Should have good results if you're patient
09-16-2013, 11:44 AM
#57
Re: Paint Maintenance
I was nervous enough that I stopped claying the car all together. The paint is garbage to start with. That's what you get for parking it uncovered under a tree for 2 years.
09-21-2013, 02:46 PM
#62
Re: Paint Maintenance
09-21-2013, 02:50 PM
#63
09-21-2013, 02:51 PM
#64
Re: Paint Maintenance
Sounds good.
TIP* Rotarys should only be used by experienced paint correction persons. If you are new to correcting your paint get yourself a DA (dual action) polisher. They are much easier to learn on and is harder to burn through the paint.
09-21-2013, 06:46 PM
#66
Re: Paint Maintenance
I was always told if it's hotter than you, it's too hot to wash.
09-21-2013, 07:50 PM
#67
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Re: Paint Maintenance
I've always used duragloss car wash. Just a capful. I recently saw zymol at Walmart? Any opinions?
Been detailing for about 8 years in my spare time and finally did my first white car. Definitely a much larger task.
Also been using finish kare top kite for tires/moldings and even the inside interior. I now prefer it over poorboys. Also picked up some optibond tire gel and applied it non diluted and wasn't too impressed with it.
Been detailing for about 8 years in my spare time and finally did my first white car. Definitely a much larger task.
Also been using finish kare top kite for tires/moldings and even the inside interior. I now prefer it over poorboys. Also picked up some optibond tire gel and applied it non diluted and wasn't too impressed with it.
09-21-2013, 08:16 PM
#68
Re: Paint Maintenance
I've always used duragloss car wash. Just a capful. I recently saw zymol at Walmart? Any opinions?
Been detailing for about 8 years in my spare time and finally did my first white car. Definitely a much larger task.
Also been using finish kare top kite for tires/moldings and even the inside interior. I now prefer it over poorboys. Also picked up some optibond tire gel and applied it non diluted and wasn't too impressed with it.
Been detailing for about 8 years in my spare time and finally did my first white car. Definitely a much larger task.
Also been using finish kare top kite for tires/moldings and even the inside interior. I now prefer it over poorboys. Also picked up some optibond tire gel and applied it non diluted and wasn't too impressed with it.
Agree with you on white cars, much harder to see the results/finishing when doing it. Constantly have to move around in the light to get different angles. I own 2 white cars myself.
09-21-2013, 08:26 PM
#69
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Re: Paint Maintenance
This is the zymol car wash I saw at Walmart. Any opinions? I've read good things in autogeek about it but no complaints about duragloss.
http://mobile.walmart.com/m/phoenix;...48-oz/19864190
http://mobile.walmart.com/m/phoenix;...48-oz/19864190
09-21-2013, 09:49 PM
#71
Re: Paint Maintenance
Here's a picture of my project truck. Truck has been sitting since 1995 (it was kept running, barely) and the paint was the worst I've seen. Decided to see if I could bring it back to life. Here is a before/after picture. Not completely done with the finished side but feel confident now that it can be saved. Just that portion took me about 8hrs.
09-22-2013, 03:38 PM
#74
Re: Paint Maintenance
ok so, polishing.
there are multiple ways to do this, by hand, rotary, and DA, (dual action), also called an orbital.
Some people swear by polishing by hand. Personally, I think it's just a pain in the ***, and I'm never happy with the results. However there are times where hand polishing is the only option. Behind door handles, and in tight/small areas.
(If any one would like something added to this, please let me know.)
Now onto the machines. This is where it can get scary for someone who hasn't done this before. Rotary or DA? Well that needs to be decided on your skill level/comfort level, and the severity of the defect you wish to remove. Rotaries have always been known for the sheer amount of power they have, and the ability to remove sever defects/sanding marks quickly. However with the new compounds and pads, a DA can bridge that gap rather quickly without the danger.
The dangers of rotary use can range from holograms (also called buffer trails), swirl marks, or the dreaded burn thru.
Halograms:
Swirls:
Burn through: Notice above the D.
(please note, those pictures are not mine. If the owner of them would like them taken down, PM me)
Now the DA, my personal favorite.
Unlike the rotary a DA doesn't not spin in a constant circle.
Example:
This machines are very simple for a beginner to get into. Some what cheap, (depending on machine), very easy to control, and overall just very user friendly.
That should cover it for right now, I may add more later. If you would something added/changed feel free to let me or TypeRfit know.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
okay, enough talk onto some pictures. These are some of my pictures of cars I've worked on.
F150 tail gate before: Done with Griots 6'' DA, Meguiars M105/205 with GG orange pads.
.
50/50:
Done: Sorry about the bottles in the shot. This is the only picture I have.
one of the doors, I forget which.
Before:
Done:
DA integra: Meg's M105, Meguairs Yellow wool on the rotary. GG 6''+ orange pads, M205.
Sorry have no before shots, it's was difficult to get shots of the defects, and I just wanted to get it done.
Red crown vic, sorry not before shots, unless I can find them
DA, M105 on orange pad, m205 on black
My civic: I forgot what I used on it.
Got this one yesterday. This is with no wax/sealant, just the paint... It was washed with dawn, and hit with Griots paint prep right before this.
That's it for now, I will add more as I find them.
there are multiple ways to do this, by hand, rotary, and DA, (dual action), also called an orbital.
Some people swear by polishing by hand. Personally, I think it's just a pain in the ***, and I'm never happy with the results. However there are times where hand polishing is the only option. Behind door handles, and in tight/small areas.
(If any one would like something added to this, please let me know.)
Now onto the machines. This is where it can get scary for someone who hasn't done this before. Rotary or DA? Well that needs to be decided on your skill level/comfort level, and the severity of the defect you wish to remove. Rotaries have always been known for the sheer amount of power they have, and the ability to remove sever defects/sanding marks quickly. However with the new compounds and pads, a DA can bridge that gap rather quickly without the danger.
The dangers of rotary use can range from holograms (also called buffer trails), swirl marks, or the dreaded burn thru.
Halograms:
Swirls:
Burn through: Notice above the D.
(please note, those pictures are not mine. If the owner of them would like them taken down, PM me)
Now the DA, my personal favorite.
Unlike the rotary a DA doesn't not spin in a constant circle.
Example:
This machines are very simple for a beginner to get into. Some what cheap, (depending on machine), very easy to control, and overall just very user friendly.
That should cover it for right now, I may add more later. If you would something added/changed feel free to let me or TypeRfit know.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
okay, enough talk onto some pictures. These are some of my pictures of cars I've worked on.
F150 tail gate before: Done with Griots 6'' DA, Meguiars M105/205 with GG orange pads.
.
50/50:
Done: Sorry about the bottles in the shot. This is the only picture I have.
one of the doors, I forget which.
Before:
Done:
DA integra: Meg's M105, Meguairs Yellow wool on the rotary. GG 6''+ orange pads, M205.
Sorry have no before shots, it's was difficult to get shots of the defects, and I just wanted to get it done.
Red crown vic, sorry not before shots, unless I can find them
DA, M105 on orange pad, m205 on black
My civic: I forgot what I used on it.
Got this one yesterday. This is with no wax/sealant, just the paint... It was washed with dawn, and hit with Griots paint prep right before this.
That's it for now, I will add more as I find them.
09-22-2013, 05:03 PM
#75
Re: Paint Maintenance
Looks good 98civdx. The only thing I will add to it is the speed of motion with the rotary/da.
That black truck up there is a perfect example of it, you can see how 99% of the buffer marks have hard edges on them. That is from moving the machine too fast and putting too much pressure on the edge of the pad.
Going over a panel in a fast pace more often then not will typically give you horrible results. Move in a nice slow smooth overlapping motion and let the pad do the work for you. Most waxes/polishes will turn almost transparent when the compound agent in the wax has done its job and broke down.
That black truck up there is a perfect example of it, you can see how 99% of the buffer marks have hard edges on them. That is from moving the machine too fast and putting too much pressure on the edge of the pad.
Going over a panel in a fast pace more often then not will typically give you horrible results. Move in a nice slow smooth overlapping motion and let the pad do the work for you. Most waxes/polishes will turn almost transparent when the compound agent in the wax has done its job and broke down.