Which wire to tap into for hazards?
Instead of hooking up the alarm (+) to parking lights, I want to hook up mine to the hazards. I tried splitting it and giving pos signal to each wire but it doesn't work. Which wire should I tap into?
Btw, the car is a 91 integra RS
Btw, the car is a 91 integra RS
It's not "what wire" it's wires, you need to connect into both the green/blue and the green/yellow at the "Hazard Switch", [outputs] or the "Combination Light Switch", [signal light outputs] or at the "Integrated Control Unit", [inputs] you will have to isolate the 2 sides, use two 10A diodes or a 2PST relay.
The question is why?
94
The question is why?
94
First of all...if you don't know what wires to hook up the alarm light flash signal to...
please look at a wire chart for you car...OR
pull off your front turning signal, see what wire goes there...
black is ground, and red/black is parking light...
second...
yes, you are going to need two 10A diodes, and tap into the left and right turning signals...if you don't know what diodes do, go to the12volt.com for more info..
third...
the easiest place for taping wires, are the running wires along the driver's side footsill.alot of your connections are available there...
please look at a wire chart for you car...OR
pull off your front turning signal, see what wire goes there...
black is ground, and red/black is parking light...
second...
yes, you are going to need two 10A diodes, and tap into the left and right turning signals...if you don't know what diodes do, go to the12volt.com for more info..
third...
the easiest place for taping wires, are the running wires along the driver's side footsill.alot of your connections are available there...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpr0422 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">third...
the easiest place for taping wires, are the running wires along the driver's side footsill.alot of your connections are available there... </TD></TR></TABLE> Actually the easiest place is at the steering column "Combination Light Switch" harness.
And FYI the park lights can be accessed at the park light free pin on the under dash fuse box.
94
the easiest place for taping wires, are the running wires along the driver's side footsill.alot of your connections are available there... </TD></TR></TABLE> Actually the easiest place is at the steering column "Combination Light Switch" harness.
And FYI the park lights can be accessed at the park light free pin on the under dash fuse box.
94
I know I can tap into the parking lights and I know which wire it is. The problem is I have bi-xenon projectors in my 1pc headlights. I have it so that the parking lights act as low beam because on Honda if you want high beam it turns off the low beam current. You can't have them both on. So that's why I have them hooked up to the parking lights. Now I can't hook up my alarm to the parking lights, it might damage the HIDs with all the blinking.
I read somewhere a while ago that you can tap into a single wire for the hazards. And I remember reading that it has to be before the relay for the hazards. Anybody heard of that before?
I read somewhere a while ago that you can tap into a single wire for the hazards. And I remember reading that it has to be before the relay for the hazards. Anybody heard of that before?
My post was to bpr0422 I know you want hazards, and now why.
There is no single wire hook up for signal/hazard lights, the left and right sides have to stay isolated, if you connect before relay nothing will work as the relay/flasher is not connected to the lights unless signal lights are on, [only one side] or hazard switch is on, [lights already flash].
Why not just install a relay triggered by high beam to also keep low beams on, and have the park lights work normally?
94
BTW if you have the park lights wired directly to the low beams, [no relays] you are overloading the park light circuit and you can damage the wire harness.
There is no single wire hook up for signal/hazard lights, the left and right sides have to stay isolated, if you connect before relay nothing will work as the relay/flasher is not connected to the lights unless signal lights are on, [only one side] or hazard switch is on, [lights already flash].
Why not just install a relay triggered by high beam to also keep low beams on, and have the park lights work normally?
94BTW if you have the park lights wired directly to the low beams, [no relays] you are overloading the park light circuit and you can damage the wire harness.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My post was to bpr0422 I know you want hazards, and now why.
BTW if you have the park lights wired directly to the low beams, [no relays] you are overloading the park light circuit and you can damage the wire harness.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You will damage the wire harness, I had to fix three last week at a friends shop because of it.
BTW if you have the park lights wired directly to the low beams, [no relays] you are overloading the park light circuit and you can damage the wire harness.
</TD></TR></TABLE>You will damage the wire harness, I had to fix three last week at a friends shop because of it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti eater »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You will damage the wire harness, I had to fix three last week at a friends shop because of it. </TD></TR></TABLE> I thought it would be more dramatic if he seen that first hand, you know, that long drive at night at first it's just a smell, then it's the smell of something burning, then it gets real bad real fast and by the time you see the smoke it's too late, and you sit around wondering why the fuse didn't blow until it was too late.
Nothing like experience as a teacher.
94
You will damage the wire harness, I had to fix three last week at a friends shop because of it. </TD></TR></TABLE> I thought it would be more dramatic if he seen that first hand, you know, that long drive at night at first it's just a smell, then it's the smell of something burning, then it gets real bad real fast and by the time you see the smoke it's too late, and you sit around wondering why the fuse didn't blow until it was too late.
Nothing like experience as a teacher.
94
Really? I did not know that. I am using a fused relay to power the HID along with the parking lights. I read a tutorial on hidforum when I did the retrofit, ::knockonwood:: nothing has gone wrong.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why not just install a relay triggered by high beam to also keep low beams on, and have the park lights work normally? 94
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I could also do that. How do I go about doing this? or can you point me in the right direction.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I thought it would be more dramatic if he seen that first hand, you know, that long drive at night at first it's just a smell, then it's the smell of something burning, then it gets real bad real fast and by the time you see the smoke it's too late, and you sit around wondering why the fuse didn't blow until it was too late.
Nothing like experience as a teacher.
94
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That would suck really bad. Happened to me when I did my first alarm, thank God my friend unplugged the battery.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why not just install a relay triggered by high beam to also keep low beams on, and have the park lights work normally? 94
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I could also do that. How do I go about doing this? or can you point me in the right direction.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I thought it would be more dramatic if he seen that first hand, you know, that long drive at night at first it's just a smell, then it's the smell of something burning, then it gets real bad real fast and by the time you see the smoke it's too late, and you sit around wondering why the fuse didn't blow until it was too late.
Nothing like experience as a teacher.
94 </TD></TR></TABLE>
That would suck really bad. Happened to me when I did my first alarm, thank God my friend unplugged the battery.
to keep the low beams on when you switch to high beam, use the red/blue, [high beam output from "Combination Light Switch" to the under dash fuse box to control the relay, [85] ground 86 of relay supply relay with a 20A fused 12V+ constant, [30] then connect 87 of relay to the red/yellow, [low beam output from "CLS" to under dash fuse box.
Park and head lights will work normally until you turn on the high beams, [or hit the "Flash To Pass Switch"] the low beams will also stay on.
94
Park and head lights will work normally until you turn on the high beams, [or hit the "Flash To Pass Switch"] the low beams will also stay on.
94
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