jtfc3s

my subs dont work when the car is turned on (engine running)
and i checked the amp and it was on protect mode (red light) :and note this is while the engine is runnning.


but when the engine is off and i leave the car on the 1st click in the ignition,my subs work fine,i checked battery terminal,ground,and wires,fuses and everything is plugged correcty,but when i turn my engine on the subwoofers shuts off.

has anyone encountered this problem before???

NismoGriff

Hmmm, what kind of amp/sub is it? Power wire is ran to the battery? Where is your groung? Did you check the power output of the alternator when the car is running?

jtfc3s

its a visonik 300 watt amp and 2 10 icnh Xtant subs...
yes power wire is ran to the battery
my ground is in the trunk by the passenger tailight...
and no i did not check the power output of the alt. when the car was running..

NismoGriff

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jtfc3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a visonik 300 watt amp and 2 10 icnh Xtant subs...
yes power wire is ran to the battery
my ground is in the trunk by the passenger tailight...
and no i did not check the power output of the alt. when the car was running..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Grounded near the passenger tail light?? This makes me think that you took one of the nuts off that hold the light in and used it as a ground. If that is the case, I would suggest moving it to a bolt somewhere, like one that holds a seatbelt or the rear seat mounting bolt. The reason i asked about the alternator was because I was thinking the amp might be seeing an over voltage situation. Put a meter on the battery terminals with the car running and see that you are somewhere in the 14.4V range.

jtfc3s

its grounded near the pasenger tailight but no i dindnt use any of the bolts that connect to the tailight,its like 1 feet away from the tailight

so i need a volt meter to test it out, and if it reads lower than 14.4v do i need to replace my alternator?or what can i do?

White Smoke

So when you start the car the red light on the amp comes on?

fcm

If the system works when engine is not running, but not when engine is running, my guess is over-voltage rather then under-voltage, even if there was no output from the alt. the amp would still work off the batt., [for a while].
Car audio, [most, not all] is designed to work within 11.5V - 14.4V, if voltage is above that the equipment shuts down.

Take your car to any batt./alt. shop and have them do a load check, most will do this for free, only takes a few min. 94

jtfc3s

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So when you start the car the red light on the amp comes on?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes!!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the system works when engine is not running, but not when engine is running, my guess is over-voltage rather then under-voltage, even if there was no output from the alt. the amp would still work off the batt., [for a while].
Car audio, [most, not all] is designed to work within 11.5V - 14.4V, if voltage is above that the equipment shuts down.

Take your car to any batt./alt. shop and have them do a load check, most will do this for free, only takes a few min. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>


cool ill do this! and if i do fail this test what do i need to replace???

fcm

The alt., the problem is probably the voltage regulator, but it is built into the alt. so it only makes sense to replace the whole thing, also a good time to upgrade the alt., something with a little more output, [current/amps]. 94

jtfc3s

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The alt., the problem is probably the voltage regulator, but it is built into the alt. so it only makes sense to replace the whole thing, also a good time to upgrade the alt., something with a little more output, [current/amps]. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

whats a good alt that has more output should i get?

fcm

We get most of the alt. we use for upgrades from... http://www.ohiogen.com/ good quality, support and pricing. 94

NismoGriff

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the system works when engine is not running, but not when engine is running, my guess is over-voltage rather then under-voltage, even if there was no output from the alt. the amp would still work off the batt., [for a while].
Car audio, [most, not all] is designed to work within 11.5V - 14.4V, if voltage is above that the equipment shuts down.

Take your car to any batt./alt. shop and have them do a load check, most will do this for free, only takes a few min. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry I did not check back sooner, but the above response is exactly where I was heading with my questioning.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We get most of the alt. we use for upgrades from... http://www.ohiogen.com/ good quality, support and pricing. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also what I would of suggested since I live in Ohio

jtfc3s

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NismoGriff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sorry I did not check back sooner, but the above response is exactly where I was heading with my questioning.

Also what I would of suggested since I live in Ohio </TD></TR></TABLE>

its all good man thanks for your guy's help, ill probably just look around here since im in socal..
thanks for everyones input