I was thinking if I wired in a switch off of the clutch kill switch wouldn't that work as a starter kill?

Also, how would you go about killing the fuel pump?

 

Starter kill is useless... push start or just get a piece of wire and connect the starter bolt to the + terminal on the battery...

 

Hm, okay so an ignition kill........must research.


Fuel pump, I was thinking about a switch on the + wire that I would have to turn off when leaving the car and turn on when getting in.

 

yep. both are the same concept.. simply wire a toggle switch in series with either.. very easy..

 

would recommend switching the negative wire though... if you can... less of a hazard having a ground wire ground out near the fuel pump, as opposed to a power wire grounding out. BOOM! pfft

Just hope they don't know how to tow a car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dustin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Starter kill is useless... push start or just get a piece of wire and connect the starter bolt to the + terminal on the battery...</TD></TR></TABLE>

So, Viper's (DEI) started kill can be bypassed if the car is push started?
I don't think that can happen if a fuel cut-off switch is installed and the switch can NOT be found

I was thinking that when I get my alarm (Viper / Circuit City) to tell the guy not to worry about wiring the starter kill if it can be push started.

 

Starter kill kills the starter only.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bojangs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep. both are the same concept.. simply wire a toggle switch in series with either.. very easy.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

THis is not good advice. Particularly if the switch kills a fuel component. Imagine a loose item in tha cabin, or a stray hand/foot bumping the switch while driving.

Use relays and a momentary to constant setup.


LINKS:
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Great resource:
http://www.the12volt.com

Imobilizer Idea:
http://www.autospeed.com/A_0059/P_1/article.html

Here is a store that sells Bosch relays and other electronics:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...ID=31

Relays MULTIPLE uses:
http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/relays.html

Replace the door handle covers with those from an RS integra:
http://itr-nc.com/pat/rshandles_small.jpg
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=237232

Momentary Kill switch setup:
http://www.ae92gts.com/ae92gts_antitheft.html

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=244674


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If only Teken were still around:
Teken:

Wire Color codes and locations for an Acura Integra 2000
--------------------------------------------------------

12 Volts Constant WHT IGNITION Switch Harness

Igniton 1 BLK/YEL IGNITION SWITCH Harness

Ignition 2 WHT/BLK IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Accessory/Heater Blower 1 YEL IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Starter BLK/WHT (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Parking Lights RED/BLK GRN PLUG ABV. FUSEBOX

Dome Light GRN/RED (-) DR KICK PANEL

Pwr Door Lock BLK/WHT (-) DR KICK PANEL

Pwr Door Unlock BLK/RED (-) (TYPE B)

Tach Sensor BLU (-) AT DIST

Brake GRN/WHT (+) AT BRAKE SWITCH

Horn BLU/GRN (-) STEERING HARNESS

FACTORY ANTI-THEFT TRANSPONDER

----------

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WOTTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

THis is not good advice. Particularly if the switch kills a fuel component. Imagine a loose item in tha cabin, or a stray hand/foot bumping the switch while driving.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

If the switch is mounted somewhere out of the way and is always turned on/off before the key is even put into the ignition, can there still be a problem?

 

"THis is not good advice. Particularly if the switch kills a fuel component. Imagine a loose item in tha cabin, or a stray hand/foot bumping the switch while driving.

Use relays and a momentary to constant setup."


Well, obviously, there is common sense involved. However, I would trust a toggle switch hidden in a place that will not be accidentally pumped (and I mean a switch that is not pushbutton, but must be moved by hand), much more than a latched relay system.

If that relay fails while you are driving, you are in trouble. Basically, I have trouble trusting for a major fuel component a relay that is charged and pulled in.

 

Furthermore, using the ground wire as the switch is not so great, as it is much easier to defeat. The thief can just go to the fuel pump, and touch the ground wire to the chassis. But they may not be able to find a 12volt source to wire into the pump.

What I mean is, if the theif is determined enough to actually try to access the fuel pump, cutting the 12volt line is much harder to bypass then ground, because ground can be easily reconnected using chassis. But for the 12V line, the thief will have to splice another power line.

 

How would one go about setting up a kill switch for the fuel injectors?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would trust a toggle switch hidden in a place that will not be accidentally pumped (and I mean a switch that is not pushbutton, but must be moved by hand), much more than a latched relay system.

If that relay fails while you are driving, you are in trouble. Basically, I have trouble trusting for a major fuel component a relay that is charged and pulled in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you think the <U>PGM-FI Main Relay</U> does?.

Most systems in your vehicle depend on relays. I do suggest buying the highest-quality relays available though. Bosch relays outperform other relays as Bosch's QA testing is much more rigourous than other companies. Teken had a good resource for comparative data on relay brands. I can't find it though.