Power Windows Question!
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 387
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From: BTown, Md, USA
Power Windows Question!
I have a 99 dx hatch ..i have put the 00 si door panels and window regulators in and everything. I am not using the floor harness, and have made my own type of harness...heres the problem though...i have the drivers side wired up and i rolled it down..but now it wont roll back up...im coming here because i know most of you are wiring gurus...please help me out..BTW...Heres the diagram im using
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,173
Likes: 18
From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: Power Windows Question! (jpnucrx)
I have seen that wiring diagram before, last guy swapped the doors. 
You said you installed the power window regulators and the door panels from an 00 Civic into/onto your 99 Civic doors, I assume you also installed the door wiring harnesses from the 00 into the 99, but you did not change your dash harness, "floor harness".
When you say you made your own harness, what exactly does that mean?
If you have two power leads going to the drivers door switch, one for drivers window switch, [blue/black] and one for pass. window switch, [green/black] and the 3 grounds for the main switch, [ground for drivers window switch and "Window Control Unit", ground for "Main Switch" input and "Pulser", ["Pulser" is in drivers window motor but may share a common ground with "Main Switch" ground input and would have no effect on drivers window.
Pass. door switch should have a power, [common fuse as the pass. door switch in drivers door, [green/black] and the two "linking" leads from pass. switch in drivers door to switch in pass. door, [blue/yellow and blue/orange].
If you have done the above correctly it should work, or you have a bad switch, you will need a multimeter to test the wiring, or at least a test light that will show both power and ground.
If you do not have a meter, go and buy one, it will pay for itself many times over in no time, you can get one that will do the job for $20 at Radio Shack.
If you do have a meter, first thing to check is the red/blue and red/yellow leads going from the drivers door window switch to the drivers door window motor, they should both rest at ground, meaning both wires should be grounds when switch is not pressed, when you rock the switch for down, one of them will stay grounded and the other will reverse polarity and become a 12V+ or hot lead, window motor runs in one direction, when you rock the switch the other way, the opposite wire will stay grounded and the other will go to 12V+ the window motor runs in other direction, it's called a "ground at rest polarity switching system".
If when you meter the wires any of the above is not so, the switch is the problem, and more then likely it is dirty contacts in the switch, [you should be able to take it apart and clean the contacts, or just replace the switch. 94
BTW, did you install a relay for the power for the power windows?
You said you installed the power window regulators and the door panels from an 00 Civic into/onto your 99 Civic doors, I assume you also installed the door wiring harnesses from the 00 into the 99, but you did not change your dash harness, "floor harness".
When you say you made your own harness, what exactly does that mean?
If you have two power leads going to the drivers door switch, one for drivers window switch, [blue/black] and one for pass. window switch, [green/black] and the 3 grounds for the main switch, [ground for drivers window switch and "Window Control Unit", ground for "Main Switch" input and "Pulser", ["Pulser" is in drivers window motor but may share a common ground with "Main Switch" ground input and would have no effect on drivers window.
Pass. door switch should have a power, [common fuse as the pass. door switch in drivers door, [green/black] and the two "linking" leads from pass. switch in drivers door to switch in pass. door, [blue/yellow and blue/orange].
If you have done the above correctly it should work, or you have a bad switch, you will need a multimeter to test the wiring, or at least a test light that will show both power and ground.
If you do not have a meter, go and buy one, it will pay for itself many times over in no time, you can get one that will do the job for $20 at Radio Shack.
If you do have a meter, first thing to check is the red/blue and red/yellow leads going from the drivers door window switch to the drivers door window motor, they should both rest at ground, meaning both wires should be grounds when switch is not pressed, when you rock the switch for down, one of them will stay grounded and the other will reverse polarity and become a 12V+ or hot lead, window motor runs in one direction, when you rock the switch the other way, the opposite wire will stay grounded and the other will go to 12V+ the window motor runs in other direction, it's called a "ground at rest polarity switching system".
If when you meter the wires any of the above is not so, the switch is the problem, and more then likely it is dirty contacts in the switch, [you should be able to take it apart and clean the contacts, or just replace the switch.
94BTW, did you install a relay for the power for the power windows?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 387
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From: BTown, Md, USA
Re: Power Windows Question! (fcm)
i ran my own wires and kind of "made" my own harness, b/c i couldnt find one anywhere. it works great for the passenger window. it also works for the drivers side window, just not up. i used a DMM and checked all the wires. i have battery voltage at the green/black, and the blue/black. So I know all my grounds are good. If i probe the red/yellow(not seen in diagram..it runs from the switch to motor on drivers side), it reads 0 at rest. when i press it down, it recieves battery voltage, but when i pull it up(window up)no reading is shown?...could it be just the switch?...some people said to clean it?..how do i go about that?..i got the assembly apart, but i dont see how to actually take off the switch itself, from the rocker?...thanks for the help
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,173
Likes: 18
From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: Power Windows Question! (jpnucrx)
How do you know your grounds are good because you have power on the blue/black and green/black?
Did you check for a ground on both the red/yellow and the red/blue?
Both leads should show as grounds when switch is at rest, do they?
Yes the ground going to the drivers window switch must be good, or window would not have gone down, and yes the power going to switch must be good, again, or the window would not have gone down, that's why the problem has to be in the switch.
To find out exactly what the problem is you must tell me...
1- Do the red/yellow and red/blue test as grounds when switch is at rest?
2-When you rock the switch for down one of them will still test as ground and the other will test as 12V+, what happens when you rock the switch for up, [polarity should reverse] what is missing the ground or the 12V+.
You say when you probe the red/yellow "it reads 0 at rest and when you press switch for down it goes to 12V+, meaning the red/blue will still show a ground, you say that when you pull it for up "no reading is shown", that does not tell me if there is a ground on the leads when switch is at rest, it does not tell me if there is a ground on the red/yellow when you "pull it up", and it does not tell me if the red/blue shows 12V+ when "you pull it up".
94
Did you check for a ground on both the red/yellow and the red/blue?
Both leads should show as grounds when switch is at rest, do they?
Yes the ground going to the drivers window switch must be good, or window would not have gone down, and yes the power going to switch must be good, again, or the window would not have gone down, that's why the problem has to be in the switch.
To find out exactly what the problem is you must tell me...
1- Do the red/yellow and red/blue test as grounds when switch is at rest?
2-When you rock the switch for down one of them will still test as ground and the other will test as 12V+, what happens when you rock the switch for up, [polarity should reverse] what is missing the ground or the 12V+.
You say when you probe the red/yellow "it reads 0 at rest and when you press switch for down it goes to 12V+, meaning the red/blue will still show a ground, you say that when you pull it for up "no reading is shown", that does not tell me if there is a ground on the leads when switch is at rest, it does not tell me if there is a ground on the red/yellow when you "pull it up", and it does not tell me if the red/blue shows 12V+ when "you pull it up".
94
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