travelor101

The quick and simple: I pulled everything from a 93 ex coupe. I pulled the door harnesses, power window/lock mechs, the door lock controler, P/W relay + fuzes. The hard part was the dash harness. Now I have heard references to a floor harness but the only one I pulled came from behind the dash?(ran along the floor though).

Details:- I got the driver door locks and power window working after I grounded them. The driverside of the harness only had 2 wires that I had to cut to get it out(they were the ground wires. I setup everything for the passenger door and I had faith when I checked the lock by flipping it over on the driver door and watched it carry over to the passenger door (door locked). Then I tried the window, and nothing.

-I used the doorswitch from the driverside to test the pwindow (pass) because I do not yet have a switch for that side.

-The dash harness; I pulled everything straight from the body of the car, everything is uncut and intact. The only things I had to cut were two plugs that meet up at the fuse box. Those two plugs had only 2 wires each that were directly connected to the passenger dash harness. So I cut the plugs from the "other wires" leaving them attached to the dash harness that I pulled. Then I matched up the plugs and spliced the 2 extra wires in with there corresponding wires in the same plug types in the existing wire harness in my 93SI Hatch. I did not remove the original harness for my car, I just laid the new one I pulled over the top of it "effectively."

Questions:
1- Is the wiring not correct somehow?

2- Do I have to have the passenger window control switch hooked up before it operates, or shouldn't it work with just the master control?

3- Is the body harness connecting from the Passenger door, to body, to driverside all there is to it (all in one piece, minus the 4 wires leading to 2 plugs (female))?


Thank you for any input you may have...

Relic1

I went through all this a while back... I wrote this to try to help a little.
http://www.b18c5eg.com/2d-3d%2....html

1 - from what I read your wiring sounds right but it's hard to tell.
2- yes you need both switches to make it work. (see the diagrams on my site and it should make sense why)
3- you need the two power locations on the back of the fuse box, ground and the two wires that run from side to side for passenger window control by the drivers side. Other than that just the two motor wires.
It's actually a pretty simple setup once you figure out how it works.

sorry if that's not much help...

travelor101

Hey thanks a lot. I read through the pageand there is definately some better info on there than I have been able to find elswhere. I will take me a bit to get back in my car for the wiring though because my left hand is now out of commission. I broke up a fight between 2 dogs (both were pits), and my left handhas a one inch deep gash between the first and second knuckle. So I will be in there tomorrow lol. Anyhow Iappreciate the help.

You said that I need the two power locations, hmmm... What I have has one plug that goes to the back of the fuse panel, one plug that clips on the the side that takes the male plug from the pass side, and then the two plugs with 2 wires in 2 other plugs that I spliced. Perhaps those to other plugs may have been what I need to look at.I will check them out aswell.


Also I have also found some other good info on "jackmoves.com" (or something like that, but what they describe is a hack and splice section, I actually went through and kept everything intact as much as possible.

I will check it out and let you know...


Modified by travelor101 at 2:54 PM 10/31/2005

Cuong-nutz

1. I can't tell from your wiring.
2. yes you need the passenger switch for the windows to function.
3. I forgot what the floor harness looks like. I just cut pigtails from mine and spliced them together.

Look at my how-to and see if i you can figure it out. GL.

monicle

theres not much to it. you have the drivers side harness, the harness from the drivers door to the fusebox, the harness between the fusebox harness and the passenger door, and the passengers side door harness. youll need fuses and the window relay. my walkthrough on jackmoves is complete oem aside from the harness between the fusebox and the drivers door. I couldnt find one anywhere to use so I cut and soldered. If you have the 4 harness sections you should be good to go. you can follow the steps in my walkthrough up untill the point where i cut off the clip. you have the harness so you can just plug it in.

Redcoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by travelor101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The quick and simple: I pulled everything from a 93 ex coupe. I pulled the door harnesses, power window/lock mechs, the door lock controler, P/W relay + fuzes. The hard part was the dash harness. Now I have heard references to a floor harness but the only one I pulled came from behind the dash?(ran along the floor though). </TD></TR></TABLE> Couldn't you take the behind dash harness too? And it would be kinda plug and play? Just wondering, I want to do this to my Cx, and I was wondering what if.

Relic1- Thank you for posting that up

travelor101

You guys are great, I appreciate all of the input. My next step is going to be getting the pass side controls for the window mech and then try it again instead of just using the master controls to test. I am hoping that will do it because I believe everything is in there right.

To answer your question, yes you can take the dash harness and it is plug and play. When I was pulling mine from the junk yard though it proved to be more work than I cared to go for(rewiring the entire dash isn't too fun when you are dying for your power doors to work, call me impatient). So I just pulled the harness starting from the door rim to the body and pulled I through. After seeing the wires from the door/body lead into a larger wire harness, I just singled out the wires that pertained only to the pdoors and followed them up through the harness, cutting them out as I went. It really was simple, just time consuming.

Redcoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by travelor101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You guys are great, I appreciate all of the input. My next step is going to be getting the pass side controls for the window mech and then try it again instead of just using the master controls to test. I am hoping that will do it because I believe everything is in there right.

To answer your question, yes you can take the dash harness and it is plug and play. When I was pulling mine from the junk yard though it proved to be more work than I cared to go for(rewiring the entire dash isn't too fun when you are dying for your power doors to work, call me impatient). So I just pulled the harness starting from the door rim to the body and pulled I through. After seeing the wires from the door/body lead into a larger wire harness, I just singled out the wires that pertained only to the pdoors and followed them up through the harness, cutting them out as I went. It really was simple, just time consuming.</TD></TR></TABLE> O ok. I was wondering why you didn't do that then. But that explains it.

I just got my hatch a week ago. It's a cx with blue interior. So I'ma most likely do the power door conversion, and use the ex harness. I'm pulling the dash to replace it with a black unit.

Thanks,
Jarrod

travelor101

Note to self: Do not try using JDM (rightsidedrive) window controls, fuses will blow. I messed up in buying a JDM power door set about 8 months ago and found that all of the wiring is "completely" backwards. 4 wires lead to the master controls and only 2 for the pass side. No flipping the harnes sor anything, it will not work, unless you completely rewire the JDM mechs themselves. I did however get a complete set of dor panels though (big plus, they are kind of hard for me to come by).

Anyhow, I hooked up the pass side JDM switch to the door then tried the controls, no luck. Then I tried the master controls switched out and blew 2 fuses. Oddly enough the corresponding door fuse blew, and then the rear door fuse blew. I thought that the fuses for the 2 rear doors were useless but apparently they are still used, hmmm...

travelor101

Well no updates yet but I have encountered something else since wiring everything (minus the pass side controls). Randumly, but more often now than before, the car shocks me when I otuch it. I know this is normal to a certain degree, but this is a little more than that.

Anyone know of a remedy for this?

Redcoupe

My Civic Ex used to shock me sometimes. My Cx hasn't done it yet.

Never bad enough to hurt, but a little staticy shock.

travelor101

Still no updates, but in the mean time, this is the baddest thread on HT right now. definately worth a look. Guy is amazing....

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=981613

Redcoupe

I got a email saying you wanted to know why I had the ZC listed as a B16a..

My 95 Civic Ex has a b16a... My 90 Fourdoor Ex has a ZC on crack(aka Nitrous) and my 92 Cx has a b16a... I need to fix that. I thought it was listed right...

LOL.

Up for some more answers..

travelor101

LOL, hahaha, ya, busted. That was my original post, however upon closer inspection of your sig I realized (after my post) that you indeed have multiple civics. SO I went in all stealth like and edited the post to show something completely different.

Alright, now on a different note I may be encountering some problems. I rolled up my wndow last night on the driver side (power window) and it sounded as if the motor was overly stressed. It did not sound like this before. I also noticed when installing them, that there is one hole that looks more like an elongated oval versus a bolt hole. Could that hole be my problem in that the positioning may need some slight adjustment? If not, then what is that hole for?


Modified by travelor101 at 10:08 AM 11/7/2005

monicle

well the elongated hole is for lining up the window but my question would be was that car running when you were rolling it up? if youre running the motor right off the battery its going to roll up slow and sould like its having a harder time. when the car is running the alternator doesnt allow the window motor to pull all of the voltage from the battery and lets the window motor do an easier job.

Redcoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by travelor101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL, hahaha, ya, busted. That was my original post, however upon closer inspection of your sig I realized (after my post) that you indeed have multiple civics. SO I went in all stealth like and edited the post to show something completely different.

Alright, now on a different note I may be encountering some problems. I rolled up my wndow last night on the driver side (power window) and it sounded as if the motor was overly stressed. It did not sound like this before. I also noticed when installing them, that there is one hole that looks more like an elongated oval versus a bolt hole. Could that hole be my problem in that the positioning may need some slight adjustment? If not, then what is that hole for?


Modified by travelor101 at 10:08 AM 11/7/2005</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes, busted.

My Ex had this problem. The problem is.. The window regulator is going bad, and it's moving around, or pushing the window up against the run channel(rubber track). I bought two new regulators, and window tracks. And it solved the problems on both sides.

But it is most likely your regulator, I got mine for about 60 bucks from Honda

travelor101

Monicle- Tested your idea and sure enough that was it. Good stuff, you stopped me from walking around with that "butthurt" look on my face all day... Thanks.

Recoupe- I have extra regulator mechs, I believe the JDM ones that I have could work, only if I swap the motors, but damn I 'd hate to fry something. Though my problem has generally been addressed considering that my window mechs were running from the battery instead of with the car running.


Modified by travelor101 at 2:28 PM 11/7/2005

monicle

no problem

Redcoupe

[QUOTE=travelor101]Recoupe- I have extra regulator mechs, I believe the JDM ones that I have could work, only if I swap the motors, but damn I 'd hate to fry something. Though my problem has generally been addressed considering that my window mechs were running from the battery instead of with the car running. /QUOTE] That should be a given.

travelor101

And we have lift off... I got the pass side window control and all is working perfectly. The window mechs are good to go, USDM lol, but the driverside does have a nit of a lag, naturally. I may end up having to replace it sooner than later but oh well. I am loving the power door locks and the windows. But I now pose another question...

Question: When I bought my power door setup, one thing I did get were the door panel (again, thank you god). Something I noticed though was that the panels wer setup for power doors and all, but the did not have the holes for the tweeters or even the driver side door lock control. Can anyone explain why these holes are not present since the door panels are for power options?

I have heard that in some cases that door lock mech actually can unlock the pass door as well when entering from the driver side if turned twice (not true in my case) and I am thinking that may be part of the reason, but I am still unsure.