joe.wong321

My 99 si just got broken into (not really, cos theft didn't break anything) and stole my 1 channel amp only
fxxkin bastard

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Now I'm goin to get a CompuStar Pro P2W9000FM-AS
and tryin to do a stealth install by myself
Is that difficult to DIY the alarm ?
cos the only compustar pro dealer quote me 800 bucks installed
and their stealth install is to "hide" the brain underneath the dash !!!

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And plus is it bad to get the alarm on the internet ?
http://mocis.com/Compustar%20P....html
cos this is international version w/ better range and should have the ability to auto lock and unlock the vehicle when the remote is in or out of range! way cheaper too
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#39;T.m317.lVI

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Plus is it possible to do the following ?
I want a hood lock that will lock it when my alarm is armed, so theft can't even open the hood or trunk before my hood / trunk pin trigger goes off
But the problem is they better have an emergency release cable in case my alarm failed on me and I can still get into my car
Which components below will fit me the best ?

EHL ELECTRONIC HOOD LOCK
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWD1V
AudioVox Hood Lock
http://forums.off-road.com/jee....html
Club electronic Hood Lock
http://www.autotoys.com/x/prod...d=481
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/....html
Hornet 567T Hood lock
http://www.onlyremote.com/prod...&js=n
http://www.autotechs.com/items/item566.htm
WOLO HOOD LOCK
http://www.midwayautosupply.co...10050

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And how can I be able to get slim jim from theft or even tow truck driver?
any barrier blocks on the bottom of the window, preventing entry, and also shrouding the operating rods and the lock cylinder to prevent manipulation of internal linkages. Others have designed the operating rods to be easily disconnected when engaged with a lateral force – as is often created by the lifting action of the tool
Take a look on how the tow truck driver being pride on being able to get any car
Post 4 and 9
http://www.audiogroupforum.com...11610

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BTW, is it possible to put more than 2 sensors from the compustar alarm ?
I want whole bunch of sensors installed w/ my alarm, like the glass sensor, proximity sensor, shock sensors, tilt sensors......any other useful sensor suggestion ?

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After this first time got broke in, I realize I must hv a close to invincible alarm for my 99 si since it's the biggest asset for me as a college student
And I can't park in the garage since my complex garage is full

Thx on any kind of advise or suggestion...


Modified by joe.wong321 at 4:49 AM 3/4/2008


Modified by joe.wong321 at 4:50 AM 3/4/2008


Modified by joe.wong321 at 4:54 AM 3/4/2008


Modified by joe.wong321 at 4:54 AM 3/4/2008

B18C_EJ8

My eyes hurt after reading that...

I'm not going back and reading each question again, so I'll hit on what I remember.

Sure you can buy an alarm on the internet. However, if you buy it from a retailer other than an authorized reseller, you will have no warranty.

Did you read the sticky about doing your own stealth install? Good stuff, and if you follow that, you should have no problem doing it, provided you can properly use hand & power tools and have some degree of electronic competence.

fastcrvi

you need op500 programmer which cost additional 100-120 or more to use all of features of the alarm, most of other features needed for basic install dont require programmer. auto door lock doesn't wokr well if you're within range say 50-60ft? if you're going to mall, then it should work as you walk away and come back.. otherwise when you're within range you can wave your hand back forth and it will lock/unlock. i didn't find the range to be much different from us models, if its better, it cna't be by much.. if you want range get pro2wssr and theres no delay

compustar sensor is good enough to sense just about anything, but if you set it too high it will go off when loud cars, storm etc, making it impossible to park in public places without disabling shock sensor. it has additional output for additional sensor but dual stage sensor that comes with it is good enough for all.

fastcrvi

nothing wrong with making it harder to open trunk/hood.. but if that fails, you should also have backup batter and siren to make it harder to disable the alarm. that particular brain even has additinal ouput for backup battery.. install is pretty simple as long as you understand the basics.. just make sure to test everything with voltemeter or you'll end up damaging stuff. it comes prewired for starter kill and additional relay, it has 9 programmable ouputs where you have to use op500 programmer - with it programming is very easy.

fcm

Your making the protection of your car more complicated then it needs to be, a properly installed alarm with a back up batt. or back up batt. siren, and maybe a dual stage proximity sensor and one or two redundant "kill switches" will be as effective.
If installed and adjusted properly the Compustar shock sensor will pick up any glass being broken.

Reroute the hood release cable and do not connect it to the hood release inside the car, it is just as effective as a hood lock.

Adding SlimJim blocking plates and "breakaway" linkage will only prevent you an an honest person from getting into the car, the crook will just bust the window.

As mentioned, if you buy from a non authorized dealer you will have no manufactures warranty. 94

joe.wong321

one of the ebay seller offer me the canadian version for $150 brand new
should I buy that and forget about the warranty?
Will compustar still give me any customer support even though I didn't get it from a dealer?
And I found a op500 programmer for less than $100
I'm really leaning toward to DIY since I really don't trust the install from local dealer beside they can only make the alarm works perfectly

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

nope^^^^^

joe.wong321

but even though I let u do the pro stealth install
I still lose the warrenty since u're not thier dealer, isn't it ?

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

Find a compustar unit off the net with a serial number on it. you won't. And me being a compustar dealer. Even thou i havent ordered in while and they been bugging me. Still installing it will not give you a warranty. hell they tell us not to even install it.

joe.wong321

so wt's ur advise for getting the alarm?
I should get it done by my local "professional" dealer for $800 or even more if I ask for add-ons?
I'm just a not rich college kid
thx

fastcrvi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joe.wong321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so wt's ur advise for getting the alarm?
I should get it done by my local "professional" dealer for $800 or even more if I ask for add-ons?
I'm just a not rich college kid
thx</TD></TR></TABLE>

you won't get warranty even if you buy it from compustar dealer.. at least in most cases.. if you do your own install thats just the risk you have to take. i think the canadian version on ebay does have serial number.. i can't remember for US version.. but aside "made in china" sticker everything else was identical. and it works just fine.

alarm install consist of....

main harness:
2 constant 12v wires
accesorry wire
start wire (with relay already wired in)
parking lights wire
ground
ignition
additinal relay wired in (not needed for basic install so you could just cut it)

18 pin harness:
ebrake wire
brake wire
clutch wire for remote start - choose one of 9 POG (there are other ways of doing it but this don't require relays as it sends negative signal)
door trigger
trunk input
hood input
key sense (in case you leave keys in to reserve mode or passive arming) - needs to be programmed
dome light
siren

6 pin:
door unlock
door lock
trunk unlock - probably won't apply to most hondas

shock sensor plug n play

antenna plug n play

temps sensor plug n tape (leave clear part exposed)

valet switch plug n play (program to to secure valet, to make it impossible to set into valet)

optional backup battery 2 pin - goes to backup battery


identify, mark all wires first, figure out locations and group together as needed and separate the ones that are not needed..

learn how to solder, not some cheap *** battery powered, but decent one and will make install more durable.. most installers won't waste their time to do it this way. it is not hard to solder and then you know for fact that its done right

keep an eye on violet or violet black (door ajar, dome light) on 18 pin harness, easy to break and loose signal.. other than that with op500 programming is so easy.. no beeps, no waiting.. just simple directions and you have everything under control.

that should be all you need unless you have immobilizer on your SI.. can't remember but i don't htink 99 had them yet..

my advice??? use only PRO series!!! and don't rush, make sure not to short anything or you'll end up frying/damaging

joe.wong321

"you won't get warranty even if you buy it from compustar dealer.. at least in most cases.. "
How's that? I thought I get lifetime warrenty from the dealer and compustar
And I'm willin to risk to DIY a compustar pro since I found a deal on ebay for $150

And I'm gonna install it by followin
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1794938

fcm

If you buy from an authorized dealer, either Compustar, or any brand, you should get at least 1 year manufacturers warranty, up here anyway, I would guess at least most states have consumer laws that would apply.

If you buy from an unauthorized dealer you will not get any manufacturers warranty or customer support, either Compustar, or any brand, why would they, your not their customer.
You also run the risk of getting ripped off, at worst you will get a counterfeit and no help from vendor, at best you will have got the real thing resold from a bankruptcy buy, in-between you get the real thing, but it was a recall for salvage and the vendor will replace once, maybe twice, all at your expense of coarse.

Do yourself a favor, uncomplicate things.

Buy a brand name alarm from an authorized dealer.
Do not buy the most complicated alarm on the market to install and program.
Do not buy an alarm that has a lot of features you do not need.
Do not buy an alarm that you need a $100 tool to program.

There are other alarms from Compustar, DEI, Audiovox and others that would be a lot easier for you to install and they are just as dependable and effective.

Lets see, $150 for alarm, $100 for programmer, that's $250, lets say shipping is free, ask wrx-killer-Sti-eater @... http://www.precisionmobilesoundwerks.com/ what he can get you for $250. 94

suspendedHatch

Thank you fcm.

Get a [freak]ing Viper 350HV from Best Buy w/out the install. Get a DEI 520T off ebay. Then follow any of the 4-5 write-ups across this forum and on Cause For Alarm. If you spend over $200 in the process, it's because something went horribly wrong.

standbackimapro

Pretty Much all Alarm Systems can only handle 2 Sensors ( U CAN add more, but crap goes wrong, and most alarms come with 1 sensor)

As in you dont need a Glass break sensor if you have a motion sensor

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by standbackimapro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pretty Much all Alarm Systems can only handle 2 Sensors </TD></TR></TABLE> What???

If installed properly you can add as many sensors as you want to any alarm. 94

joe.wong321

I tried to rewire the speakers today since they cut my amp's wires
and I found out my radion wire harness is kinda mess up....butt connecter are used every wires instead of solder and heat shrink tube.....stock wire harness was cut too short so get some extended wires for each stock wires......
My alarm wires is kinda like that too

so just wanna ask should I just replace it with a used 99 si dash harness from H-T members ?
http://www.hondamarketplace.co...81434
http://www.hondamarketplace.co...46826

or should I just fix it up ? cos the wires are really in a mess...
Do I hv to get the one from Si? how about from EX....do they work?
The whole dash wire harness should include the radio part and my ignition part right?
thx

fcm

The OEM radio harness/plug is part of the dash harness, the ign. switch harness is not.

I would start by removing any of the alarm harness, repair any OEM wiring, replace the ign. switch harness if you can't properly repair it.

Depending on what you are doing for the sound system will determin what you will need in the OEM radio harness, if you are just going to install a HU and use it to drive the door and rear speakers, [if you have rear speakers] then just "hard wire" the HUs harness to what is left of the OEM radio harness, in-line "butt" connectors will do the job just fine, but solder and shrink tubing can't hurt.

Here is a color code/pinout of the OEM radio harness... http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/HA-Wiring.pdf 94

joe.wong321

thx for the advise
I'll probably giv the $150 ebay compustar and DIY a shot
cos I do like that alarm and it does cost a lot from the dealer

BTW, how can I set my stereo system back on track?
This is wt I hv right now
-Eclipse EA 2212 Amplifier (stolen)
-Eclipse 8392 (rear)
should be eclipse for the front too, it should be a compenent speakers cos I saw the crossover box behind the speaker one time when I took the door panel off once.

I'm kinda satisfy from the set up be4, since my amp got stolen now
I'm think about should I get a new set up
I read ur post and learn a lot, fcm
this is my little thinkin
should I get the amplified spare tire subwoofer from pioneer
then get a 4 channel amp for all the speakers
and I should get the one w/ hi/low filter crossover build in so the front component will sound the loudest and best, right?
but I heard in this set up I should just wire the 6x9 to the headunit
then do I need a 4 channel amp still?

thx

fcm

If you are running Eclipse component speakers in the doors I would definitely replace the amp, you could easily get away with a 2ch amp, [just for the fronts] and use HU power for the rear speakers, or replace with a 4ch amp and disable the tweeter(s) on the rear speakers, wire them in series, [8 ohm load] and connect them the the bridged rear 2 channels of the amp, and run them full range, connect the front 2 channels of the amp to the front speakers and run them high-pass, [between 75Hz - 100Hz] depending on the model of speakers.

If a spare tire well amplified sub system works for you then get one, you will have to decide if it is "good enough" sub bass.


One more thing, you said "should be eclipse for the front too, it should be a compenent speakers cos I saw the crossover box behind the speaker one time when I took the door panel off once.
" that would put the x-over inside the door cavity, on the wrong side of vapour barrier.
Or did you mean on the back of the speaker, like the Eclipse SP6500 Point Sourse speakers? 94

joe.wong321

Clarify my set up right now, check on my car today
Front is Boston Rally Series RC61LF,
240W Max,
60W Nominal,
4 ohm (written on the back of the speaker)

w/ Boston Crossover box RC61X, placed right behind the speaker, Amplifier channel looks like connected to headunit, 61 Lf Woofer channel connected to speaker, Neo 2r tweeter channel not connected

Rear is Eclipse 8392
Continuous Power Handling: 75W
Music Power Handling: 150W
Frequency Response: 50—20kHz
Sensitivity: 96dB

Amplifier is Eclipse EA2212 2/1 Channel
(stolen)
ChannelFlex Crossover
Adjustable Low-Pass Frequency (50 - 200Hz)
High-Pass Frequency (120Hz)

Subwoofer I consider buyin
Pioneer TS-WX50A from a Mazda Protege 5
Watts MAX. Music Power-100W
Watts Nominal Power Handling-50W
Frequency Response-60Hz


So, will the Pioneer TS-WX50A provide enough bass for music according to my set up be4
Found a dude askin me $75 brand new, shipped, good deal?
Possible to connect it to another amp to get even better bass off it (it has a build in amp already, TS-WX50A not TS-WX50 ) ?
I'm kinda satisfy by my bass before (know wt I want for bass now from my set up be4?)
I ask this cos I know fcm mentioned you installed couple of them be4

or should I just get a 10" sub and a spare tire box like this for $200
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem
or even just make the box by myself
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=350

I don't want the sub to vibrate my whole car or boomin the whole street
I can feel the sub from some cars when they drove by my apartment even though I live on the third floor ( I don't want this at all)
plus I don't wanna lost any space since it's my daily drive

thx


Modified by joe.wong321 at 11:02 PM 3/13/2008


Modified by joe.wong321 at 1:30 PM 3/14/2008