Hood lock?
Are there hood locks that provide better security than the stock ones? I would like one for my GSR, but couldn't find any previous posts on these. Where would find a better hood lock, any recommended brands? TIA.
Justin
Justin
Check out what http://www.autotoys.com has.
I'm probably going to get that electric one they have.
[Modified by machaf, 7:29 PM 2/18/2002]
[Modified by machaf, 7:29 PM 2/18/2002]
I'm probably going to get that electric one they have.
[Modified by machaf, 7:29 PM 2/18/2002]
[Modified by machaf, 7:29 PM 2/18/2002]
You guys have really got to learn how to link to what you are talking about. Its really a pain to try to find what some of you are talking about some times.
I believe this is what he is talking about. This is what the one I was talking about looks like. It worked good for me.
[Modified by nsxxtreme, 4:45 AM 2/19/2002]
I believe this is what he is talking about. This is what the one I was talking about looks like. It worked good for me.
[Modified by nsxxtreme, 4:45 AM 2/19/2002]
How does that manual one work? You have pics by chance? Do you pop the hood like normal inside the car then use a key through the hood gap to unlock it? Thanks for the help everyone.
Justin
Justin
I believe this is what he is talking about. This is what the one I was talking about looks like. It worked good for me.
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the hood lock with the cable sucks because as long as they can get in your car( by braking a window) they can cut the lock off and yank on the cable to open the hood.
the hood lock with the cable sucks because as long as they can get in your car( by braking a window) they can cut the lock off and yank on the cable to open the hood.
the hood lock with the cable sucks because as long as they can get in your car( by braking a window) they can cut the lock off and yank on the cable to open the hood.
OK... and your point is. Lets figure out what the hood lock was designed to do. Lock the hood and protect the siren not protect the car from being broken into. These cables are not that easy to cut. It would be 10x easier to just disconnnect the alarm since your already in the car.
OK... and your point is. Lets figure out what the hood lock was designed to do. Lock the hood and protect the siren not protect the car from being broken into. These cables are not that easy to cut. It would be 10x easier to just disconnnect the alarm since your already in the car.
If they can't get it to start from the inside they aren't going to get it to start from the outside. The electric hoodlocks I've seen only lock when the alrarm is going off. Very easy to bypass.
If they can't get it to start from the inside they aren't going to get it to start from the outside. The electric hoodlocks I've seen only lock when the alrarm is going off. Very easy to bypass.
the whole point of adding all these layers to your system is to try to make it harder to steal so that you can have a better chance of it being discovered, by you or someone else.
If someone knows what you have in the car, and wants your particular car badly enough, they'll go through everything on their "how to steal a car" checklist.
The hoodlocks will help, since theives can't externally disable your alarm by just popping open the hood and yanking everything. There will be that extra time required to disable the hoodlock.
If someone knows what you have in the car, and wants your particular car badly enough, they'll go through everything on their "how to steal a car" checklist.
The hoodlocks will help, since theives can't externally disable your alarm by just popping open the hood and yanking everything. There will be that extra time required to disable the hoodlock.
The problem thought with the electric ones is that most theives know how to pop the hood from outside without setting the alarm off. If the alarm doesn't go off the hood stays unlocked
cant you wire the hood lock to an armed output on your alarm.. so that right when you arm the alarm.. it locks the hoodlock.. and then wire it to another channel on your alarm to unlock? im asking this as a question.. but i'd assume this can be done..
OK, here is a guess as to why you can't do that. I can't get on auto toys site for some reason, so I can't check out the specifications. If anyone has one of these electric hood locks, anyone have any idea on how much current these require? I'll reserve my comment until after I get some more info.
yeah im not exactly sure how the electric ones work either.. i was just thinking it was a motor w/ a slider pin like a deadbolt.. so it takes constant power/current draw for the thing to be activated? i searched to try and find one online to see how it works and everything.. couldnt find it.. so if anyone has any links link it..
the fully automatic one sounds cool for me i know i have a timed armed output and some open channels = )... thanks for clarifying everything Teken .. yeah it didnt make much sense to me that it would have a constant draw cuz then the battery would go dead..
Teken,
to get some more info on this.
Does the hood stay unlocked all the time and locks when the alarm goes off?
Or does it require a seperate channel on the alarm to unlock?
Or does it work like your normal doorlocks, locked armed, unlocked disarmed?
No longer than it would take me to disable 90% of the alarms out there.
[Modified by nsxxtreme, 6:17 AM 3/5/2002]
to get some more info on this.
Does the hood stay unlocked all the time and locks when the alarm goes off?
Or does it require a seperate channel on the alarm to unlock?
Or does it work like your normal doorlocks, locked armed, unlocked disarmed?
Use your imagination as to how long it takes me to remove it with a simple screw driver??
[Modified by nsxxtreme, 6:17 AM 3/5/2002]
Just to clarify this topic for you all... There are several methods of securing the hood assembly. Some are better than others...
Some cost more than others... Some actually come with a lifetime warranty against defect in workmanship... And yes the better ones have a safety bypass switch / cable to protect you in case of a failure in the said unit...
1. Simplest and least effective mech is a hood lock. Where the actual two front corners are drilled to allow a hood pin or actual pad locks to secure the hood. They have been used for years in the pro-race series to protect the race car drivers against unexpected hood blows... They do not afford any measure of security per say, just safety as the latch pin / pad lock are easily circumvented... Added they are labor intensive to install correctly and are ugly to see...
2. Manual cable through fire wall bolt / pin mech... This affords more security to the owner than the above. The down side is that the mounting points must be drilled into the frame of the vehicle on both sides. One for the latch, and one for the sliding pin mech. The other down side people fail to realize is that the mechanism is (only) as secure as the mounting point to the key tumbler assembly...
Use your imagination as to how long it takes me to remove it with a simple screw driver??
3. Semi & fully automatice hood locks: Semi denoting that only half of the process of latching / unlatching is controlled by the alarm CPU or actuator switch / user... The other process entails more intervention on the part of the user to access / open the hood...
4. Fully automatic: The system is integrated into the existing alarm system that has a negative output. The unit has a very small soleniod to release the latching cable that is circumventing the opposite pull of the factory (OEM) latching mechanism...
There is NOT a constant draw of current on the vehicle at any time after the unlatch process is over and done with. Which by the way is timed for aprox 15-20 seconds to allow the user to simply pull the factory hood release cable...
I hope this clarifies this very simply issue...
Regards
Teken
Some cost more than others... Some actually come with a lifetime warranty against defect in workmanship... And yes the better ones have a safety bypass switch / cable to protect you in case of a failure in the said unit...
1. Simplest and least effective mech is a hood lock. Where the actual two front corners are drilled to allow a hood pin or actual pad locks to secure the hood. They have been used for years in the pro-race series to protect the race car drivers against unexpected hood blows... They do not afford any measure of security per say, just safety as the latch pin / pad lock are easily circumvented... Added they are labor intensive to install correctly and are ugly to see...
2. Manual cable through fire wall bolt / pin mech... This affords more security to the owner than the above. The down side is that the mounting points must be drilled into the frame of the vehicle on both sides. One for the latch, and one for the sliding pin mech. The other down side people fail to realize is that the mechanism is (only) as secure as the mounting point to the key tumbler assembly...
Use your imagination as to how long it takes me to remove it with a simple screw driver??
3. Semi & fully automatice hood locks: Semi denoting that only half of the process of latching / unlatching is controlled by the alarm CPU or actuator switch / user... The other process entails more intervention on the part of the user to access / open the hood...
4. Fully automatic: The system is integrated into the existing alarm system that has a negative output. The unit has a very small soleniod to release the latching cable that is circumventing the opposite pull of the factory (OEM) latching mechanism...
There is NOT a constant draw of current on the vehicle at any time after the unlatch process is over and done with. Which by the way is timed for aprox 15-20 seconds to allow the user to simply pull the factory hood release cable...
I hope this clarifies this very simply issue...
Regards
Teken
i will be geting me one of the fully automatic one.i had the hook lock with the cable and i never thought about someone could take a srew driver and take it off lol
One last question Teken,
How is unscrewing it going to do you any good the lock doesn't unscrew. The only thing I can think of that you are talking about is what the lock attaches to. If this is so, then I am wondering how you are going to unlock it. The cable is bolted at the other end. I am scratching my head at this one. If you don't want to post it IM me or e-mail me. Thanks.
How is unscrewing it going to do you any good the lock doesn't unscrew. The only thing I can think of that you are talking about is what the lock attaches to. If this is so, then I am wondering how you are going to unlock it. The cable is bolted at the other end. I am scratching my head at this one. If you don't want to post it IM me or e-mail me. Thanks.
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