I bought an MTX 900 Watt amp and i hooked it up and the amp won't come on. I grounded to the chasis in the trunk and direct power to battery. Am i not grounded enough? People say to should run a direct ground to the battery for that power. Any advice?

 

anyone?

 

Try hooking it up to your battery first. If it wont work, then theres something wrong with it, or there something wrong with the way your hooking it up.

 

probably not wired correctly, for turn on, there should be a wire for that. Grounding to the battery isnt a good thing, a short ground to the body of the car is all you need.

Check the amp fuses... check the power from bat to Amp fuse, Check your wires, Every one of them... right up to the headunit. If it still doesnt work, take it back and have it checked.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Grounding to the battery isnt a good thing, a short ground to the body of the car is all you need. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What makes you think this? Is this some urban myth that gets passed around as bad info.

 

depending on length, the resistance will go up, thus limiting the power of the amp, to the max load of the ground wire under that stress. And since your body is where the factory ground is attached, why buy all of that cable.. when you can keep it prefeeribly under 3 feet, and ground to the body. If you want to argue that the return wire from body to battery is too small and chokes it, then replace those 8 inches with some large gauge wire.. choke solved.

It all comes down to length/resistance/money

 

I figured it out, the bolt that i screwed the wire down to wasn't tight enough.

 

Do you have a remote turn on wire??? This tells the amp when to turn on... If the power is correct, you DO have a remote lead, then you don't have a proper ground, make sure your ground is bare metal to the chassis.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22HondaCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have a remote turn on wire??? This tells the amp when to turn on... If the power is correct, you DO have a remote lead, then you don't have a proper ground, make sure your ground is bare metal to the chassis. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You should really read threads before you post on dead threads... he figured it out days ago...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civiceg500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I figured it out, the bolt that i screwed the wire down to wasn't tight enough.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">depending on length, the resistance will go up, thus limiting the power of the amp, to the max load of the ground wire under that stress. And since your body is where the factory ground is attached, why buy all of that cable.. when you can keep it prefeeribly under 3 feet, and ground to the body. If you want to argue that the return wire from body to battery is too small and chokes it, then replace those 8 inches with some large gauge wire.. choke solved.

It all comes down to length/resistance/money </TD></TR></TABLE>Forgot about this thread, A ground wire that goes directly to ground would be better than the chassis ground as long as it is of the proper gauge. The chassis is large and parasitics are unpredictable.

The same load thats travels through the ground wire travels through the + wire as well.

My entire point of connecting directly to the batter was to just check the amp to see if it worked. connecting it directly up to the battery would have eliminated his ground problem and the amp would have worked. This would have told him to look at his wiring in the car. Glad to hear you problem is resolved.