fuel pump kill switch problem...
have a fuel pump switch currently installed in my car, but I have to replace it about every month and a half. I was just wondering if you guys knew what I'm doing wrong? I'm using 20amp switches. they seem to get really hot then melt, but they stay really cool, and seem to be okay up until the switch goes out? All I can think of is that it might be poor quality switches.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by theman-dlh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> have a fuel pump switch currently installed in my car, but I have to replace it about every month and a half. I was just wondering if you guys knew what I'm doing wrong? I'm using 20amp switches. they seem to get really hot then melt, but they stay really cool, and seem to be okay up until the switch goes out? All I can think of is that it might be poor quality switches.
Thanks guys.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Try using different switches. Maybe higher than 20amps??????
Thanks guys.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Try using different switches. Maybe higher than 20amps??????
If they're getting hot, it's because the amount of current needing to draw is being restricted. Usually its something like maybe a thin wire, bad contacts, or a bad ground.
Like on an amplifier setup with too thin of a power cable but a really high amperage fuse, will probably melt the fuse holder area.
Same thing.
Like on an amplifier setup with too thin of a power cable but a really high amperage fuse, will probably melt the fuse holder area.
Same thing.
Use the switch to operate a spst or spdt relay. That way the relay carries the current not the switch. They are rated at 40 amps.
There is a much easier way to do this. Look under the dash on the drivers side for a grey box. This is the main relay which controls the ECU, Fuel pump, and other things. Cut the black ground wire and add in a switch. I did this to my integra and the switch and wiring has not burnt out and its been over 8 months. I will try and get pics if you cant find it.
I dont think I would suggest disconnecting the ground from any electronics. All electronics need a ground to operate correctly. If you disconnect the ground,even through a switch, then when the switch is off the unit will look for another circuit to ground through. MIght be the ign control, abs, or even the cluster bulbs.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScareyH22A »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If they're getting hot, it's because the amount of current needing to draw is being restricted. Usually its something like maybe a thin wire, bad contacts, or a bad ground.
Like on an amplifier setup with too thin of a power cable but a really high amperage fuse, will probably melt the fuse holder area.
Same thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just wanted to say thanks for the help, I replace the wire fore some thicker wire and I have had no problems with it for about 2 months, were before I was replacing the switch about every 3 weeks.
The wire I was using was the same size as stock but, I ran more than 2 feet off of were I split the wire. Thanks again guys
Like on an amplifier setup with too thin of a power cable but a really high amperage fuse, will probably melt the fuse holder area.
Same thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just wanted to say thanks for the help, I replace the wire fore some thicker wire and I have had no problems with it for about 2 months, were before I was replacing the switch about every 3 weeks.
The wire I was using was the same size as stock but, I ran more than 2 feet off of were I split the wire. Thanks again guys
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