Fried door solenoid/popper, why?
okay, so I go to get into my car today and it smelled really funny, like the electrical fire stink. The door popped open or I didnt shut it last night when I came in cause I was cleaning out the car. Luckily it was open. So smeling the smell I tried the popper before I got ready to go, JIC, so I wouldnt be away from home and *** out. It didnt work, so first I checked fuses and one was blown. Replaced it and still no go. I pulled the panel off and this is what I saw.
It looks like the solenoid itself had a lil elec. fire

Heres the harness that was hooked to the relay

Heres the relay, you can see it melted some on that front pin

And the inside of the door panel. It looks as if some flames momentarily hit the metal

Any idea of what may happened and why?? This popper has only beeen used for a few months and was new. Other than that all wiring has done propperly w/ no ghetto rigging. TIA
It looks like the solenoid itself had a lil elec. fire

Heres the harness that was hooked to the relay

Heres the relay, you can see it melted some on that front pin

And the inside of the door panel. It looks as if some flames momentarily hit the metal

Any idea of what may happened and why?? This popper has only beeen used for a few months and was new. Other than that all wiring has done propperly w/ no ghetto rigging. TIA
I actually tested the relay after I took everting apart and it still works. One other thing I forgot to mention was I tried testin the solenoid one last time off the battery and my pos. lead starting getting pretty hot quick after a few sparks.
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
I putting money on the relay or the signal that triggers the relay. If the relay stuck opened with out a trigger it would of kept the popper live and pulling. And in turn it got hot burned out, created a short and poped the fuse. Burning the relay up too. If the signal kept it opened- ie- controler buttons stuck or a brain failuer. It would cause the same thing. Also what fuse rating did you have in there, Maybe it was a little to high. That popper is done since it get hot at the leads when you test it. Toss the relay and get a new one. Better safe then sorry.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti eater »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I putting money on the relay or the signal that triggers the relay. If the relay stuck opened with out a trigger it would of kept the popper live and pulling. And in turn it got hot burned out, created a short and poped the fuse. Burning the relay up too. If the signal kept it opened- ie- controler buttons stuck or a brain failuer. It would cause the same thing. Also what fuse rating did you have in there, Maybe it was a little to high. That popper is done since it get hot at the leads when you test it. Toss the relay and get a new one. Better safe then sorry.</TD></TR></TABLE> What he said
If the relay still works, I will guess it was still getting a signal from the RF unit, or if it's a ground trigger the RF unit sends, then possibly a short in the relays trigger lead, [can't see how its wired] but looking at the first pix shows the solenoid fully retracted, [on] and as has been mentioned probably seized and no good anymore, it will have to be replaced, I would also replace the relay, [even if it still works] I would not trust it, or the relay plug.
I would also have a close look at the RF unit and the trigger lead running from it to the relay, also find out what the proper size fuse should be for each solenoid and install them.
Last but not least, install a manual door release on at least one of the doors.
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Modified by fcm at 6:46 PM 7/15/2006
If the relay still works, I will guess it was still getting a signal from the RF unit, or if it's a ground trigger the RF unit sends, then possibly a short in the relays trigger lead, [can't see how its wired] but looking at the first pix shows the solenoid fully retracted, [on] and as has been mentioned probably seized and no good anymore, it will have to be replaced, I would also replace the relay, [even if it still works] I would not trust it, or the relay plug.I would also have a close look at the RF unit and the trigger lead running from it to the relay, also find out what the proper size fuse should be for each solenoid and install them.
Last but not least, install a manual door release on at least one of the doors.
94Modified by fcm at 6:46 PM 7/15/2006
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Last but not least, install a manual door release on at least one of the doors.
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Modified by fcm at 6:46 PM 7/15/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah right now thats called my "window cracked enough to get my hand in"... I got a new kit on the way for the shaved handles. Luckily vail valley is an area you can leave your doors unlocked w/o worrying to much.
94Modified by fcm at 6:46 PM 7/15/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah right now thats called my "window cracked enough to get my hand in"... I got a new kit on the way for the shaved handles. Luckily vail valley is an area you can leave your doors unlocked w/o worrying to much.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djbrandonr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Luckily vail valley is an area you can leave your doors unlocked w/o worrying to much.</TD></TR></TABLE> Shaved door handles, door locks, kind of redundant don't you think, or were you speaking in general?
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