hey guys how is it going? i have a MTX TA7402 amplifier connected to a kicker L7 sub. few days ago i was trying to start my car but it wasnt starting then i disconnected my mtx amp and my car started :D. after few days after that i reconnected my amp but now the amplifier's short led comes on and sometimes i hear the sub but it is only for 2 seconds then the amp goes into short mode again. what is the problem? is it because my battry is weak and it doesnt have enough power to power the amp? do i need to get a cap? helppppppppppppppppppp

 

once the car is started nothing runs off the battery it all runs off the alternator. it sounds to me like you either somehow shorted out your amp or you wiring is bad rca's remote, power, or ground may be bad. i recommend checking all connections running to the amp and replace wires if needed. if all that turns out good. then your pretty much left with the conclusion that the amp has shorted.
(remember the main reason amps go bad is faulty grounds or improperly loaded)

 

why do you mean by the amp has shorted? what does short means? i was trying to find out what it means in google but no luck. i am using 8 gauge wires which i am not supposed to but it was working fine for the past couple of months. so you are saying there is no problem with the battery or alternator? is the amplifier f*****?

 

Disconnect the sub from the amp, turn system on, does amp still display "short mode"?
If yes, it is probably the output stage of the amp that has gone bad, if no, the problem is the sub or the subs wiring.
I assume it is a S10L7 DVC 4 ohm Kicker, 600W continuous as the amp is a 1x600W RMS into 2 ohms. 94

 

ok i tried your way and the amp still goes short, so as you said the problem is that the output stage has gone bad. is there anyway i can fix this?

 

a new amp. unless you have a shop around you that can repair amps. ii warn you not a whole lot of shops offer repair services on amps becauise its not worth it you would be better off buying a new amp

 

Yes it is probably repairable, find out who is the authorized warranty repair facility in your area, even if it is not under warranty, and ether get a quote, [a written quote will cost you even if you do not get it repaired] or a "go ahead" price, expect to pay $100.
Before you pull the amp recheck all your connections, power/ground/trigger on amp, ground point, power cable connections at the batt. and in/out of fuse holder, and if you are using an AGU fuse, [big glass type] replace it, even if it looks good.

Although IMO the amp is worth repairing, depending on cost, you will have to weigh the cost of repair against the cost of a new amp.

BTW, before you connect any amp to your sub, do a proper test on it. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmajedi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i tried your way and the amp still goes short, so as you said the problem is that the output stage has gone bad. is there anyway i can fix this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, are you good with a soldering iron and know how to use a dmm?

80% of the time it's the power supply transistors that blow. Usually a really simple fix. expect to pay about $2.00 per transistor and that's your cost to repair yourself.

 

ok guys good news (at least i think it's good :D), i tried my amp in my friend's car and it worked fine in his car. i connected his battery, ground (4 gauge) and remote wires to my car and the amp did not go into short mode at all and it was working just fine. so i assume that there is something wrong with my wiring or car. is it possible that the battery doesnt have enough power to power the amp? should i check the fuse that is between my battery and amp? i am using 8 gauge wires should i change them? thanks alot for the help so far.

honda-tech rulezzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

 

If your 600W amp is 8' or more from the batt. you should be running a 4ga power lead, [and using a 4ga ground, and "beefing up" the batt. to chassis ground with a 4ga].
With that said, the 8ga power cable you have now is not causing the problem, if you can start your car, the batt. is not the problem.

When you tried your amp in your friends car, what subs was it connected to, your subs or his?

As I said...
Before you pull the amp recheck all your connections, power/ground/trigger on amp, ground point, power cable connections at the batt. and in/out of fuse holder, and if you are using an AGU fuse, [big glass type] replace it, even if it looks good. 94

 

it was his subs (2 12inch eclipses, mine is 12" kicker L7 750RMS), but as you said when i disconnected my subs in my car the short light was still on. if the fuse between battery and amp is fu*** would that cause the amp to go short? i am so confused what should i do?