nice job, im def. going to keep coming back and checking up.. i just recently did my 88 crx SI i did it all with in about a week and i used a spray can (lots of them) but it turned out nice.. i used semi flat black.. im planning on doing all the body work and actually spraying the car once i get my civic back runnin right...

 

i really like how straight your body came out.. adjusting the panels for proper gap and block sanding make for a great paint job.. you will get the orange peel sorted out!!

 

wow I havn't visted your build in a while. great work! can't wait to see more

 

major improvement from the last time i visited the site keep it going!

 

That thing looks sweet, You should be very proud.
Kudos on the work man.

 

I am so impressed with this thread. IT's threads like this one that make up for all the stupid comments/questions/.flames on this site. Kudos bro. You make me wanna clear my whole week just to rip everything apart and bust out a toothbrush and tackle my car.

 

BUMP...

 

 

looks sick

 

Nice Project.

 

Yeah, I'm in central florida too. Feel free to do the same for my car.

 

wating on more pictures

subscribed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxpwr1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wating on more pictures </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

update-friday, saturday and sunday are reserved for paint so i'm getting everything ready.
i have 2000+ sq.ft of plastic and about 3.5 quarts of paint. soaked the hvlp gun in thinner and now it's nice and clean.

I removed everything that i'm going to remove. wetsanded the interior and door jams with 400.


refrigeration line insulation was used to cover up the shifter and the brake lines because it was quicker than taping it up.



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">flat out excellent build and DIY bodywork that looks better than alot of proffesional shop work</TD></TR></TABLE>
thank you sir.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nuckingfuts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i really like how straight your body came out.. adjusting the panels for proper gap and block sanding make for a great paint job.. you will get the orange peel sorted out!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks. seems like orangepeel is inevitable and almost every car has some if you look hard enough. I'm not going to be so picky about it this time.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Burlyirishdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am so impressed with this thread. IT's threads like this one that make up for all the stupid comments/questions/.flames on this site. Kudos bro. You make me wanna clear my whole week just to rip everything apart and bust out a toothbrush and tackle my car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eda6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">seems like orangepeel is inevitable and almost every car has some if you look hard enough. I'm not going to be so picky about it this time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What you could do to make sure you get little or no orange peel is use a slower evaporating thinner or reducer.

 

Definitely

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drakesis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What you could do to make sure you get little or no orange peel is use a slower evaporating thinner or reducer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the info. i used slow thinner and slow hardener.

i've heard you can add more reducer to reduce/eliminate orangepeel.
is that a bad idea or should i look into their extra slow products?

 

flow coating is what you need to do to reduce the orange peel. it'll come out pretty damn near show shine and smoothe once done
grr, couldn't find my hi res pics of a closeup after flow coating, but here's something... lol

 

Looking really good. I need to stop being so lazy and get off my *** and start my project up. I have a ways to go though.

 

very nice work

I'll definitely be using this post for inspiration later on when it comes time to paint my ef(possible winter project)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eda6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the info. i used slow thinner and slow hardener.

i've heard you can add more reducer to reduce/eliminate orangepeel.
is that a bad idea or should i look into their extra slow products?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It sounds like your doing it right with the right ratio, even with the slow thinner and hardener.

What you should double check next time your ready to spray is if you using the HVLP make sure its 10lbs psi at the Cap. Also spray from 6"-10" away, from the looks of your garage setup you might of been spraying too close.

Also with your Exhaust Fan setup what is your CFM, excessive air flow over the sprayed surface will cause the finish to dry before flowing out. So try avoiding strong air current over the drying surface.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drakesis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It sounds like your doing it right with the right ratio, even with the slow thinner and hardener.

What you should double check next time your ready to spray is if you using the HVLP make sure its 10lbs psi at the Cap. Also spray from 6"-10" away, from the looks of your garage setup you might of been spraying too close.

Also with your Exhaust Fan setup what is your CFM, excessive air flow over the sprayed surface will cause the finish to dry before flowing out. So try avoiding strong air current over the drying surface.</TD></TR></TABLE>

compressor is set @50 psi and the regulator before the hvlp gun was set @ 10 psi. I'll make sure to keep an eye on it.

exhaust fan is rated between 600 and 800 cfm. the garage is 20x20. The garage door pulls in hard when the fan first comes on. also the door between the house and garage takes extra effort to close when the fans on. think i should put the fan on a lower speed?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nicks_jdmstyle_ef9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looking really good. I need to stop being so lazy and get off my *** and start my project up. I have a ways to go though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

foo we need to just like get a garage together and say ***** it, i bet if we put a days worth of hard work we can get them done fo sho

BUMP for sexy work!

 

Nice progress! I wish I had the time and money to do a whole car like that!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eda6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">compressor is set @50 psi and the regulator before the hvlp gun was set @ 10 psi. I'll make sure to keep an eye on it.

exhaust fan is rated between 600 and 800 cfm. the garage is 20x20. The garage door pulls in hard when the fan first comes on. also the door between the house and garage takes extra effort to close when the fans on. think i should put the fan on a lower speed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, 800 CFM, is good. I thought you were probably running even higher, but you mentioned that the garage door pulls in hard!
Does it stay pulled in the whole time the fan it on?
If so thats not too, too good, as that mean the garage is built fairly well,
but means that its causing a vacuum effect, and can put stress of the joints of the garage. (Which is not good!)
Also it means that you weren't getting enough airflow over the vehicle. If you have a window crack it open a bit, if not, then lift the garage door up and inch or two.
Do a few tests to check airflow over the car, you'll be able to tell with your hands to feel the air.