When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I mounted a 13 row Mocal oil cooler with thermostatic sandwich.
The first I had to do is take off the OEM eg6 oil cooler, I don't know if you guys had this in the States but Honda mounted this on eg6 to cool the oil using the coolant+coolant radiador, very clever but is not capable of cool down the oil enough for track use.
So basically you take off it (red cross) because it's safer to mount the sandwich over the block not over the oem cooler.
You have to bypass the coolant lines from the oem cooler, you can use one of the oem hoses.
You cannot use the same thread tubing that mantain the oem cooler so you have to buy a thread tubing from a b series without oil cooler, in this case I bought one from b18c4.
Now you can mount the sandwich, I had a lot of problems with the sandiwch because the lines touched the big coolant tubing that b series has on the back of the block moving itself and splitting coolant from the joints, so I had to mount my oil do and oem pressure sensors on the firewall (blue circle in first photo) to make space for the sandwich and his lines.
The radiator has been mounted on the same brackets of the ac radiator (removed) with some custom stuff.
now the oil temps on track are better, on a sunny track day you barely pass 120ŗ degrees celsius.
Last edited by DiSCLAiMER; 09-28-2015 at 10:31 AM.
Hi guys,
Here is a pain in the *** update, got a problem with the carpet on drivers side, someone step on my carpet with some fluid that ruined it also because I run without floor mats so started to unbolt things and got the carpet out.
Traditional mesh under the carpet
Also got sanded and painted some the ecu bracket and a dash bracket
Some toggle bolts to the ecu bracket in order to make an easy ecu change if needed.
I luckily found a second hand black carpet in good condition, these are difficult to find here as I think only eg6 comes with black ones, quick clean at home and ready to revert the process.
Last edited by DiSCLAiMER; 12-07-2015 at 01:11 PM.
This time, brake update.
Some time ago the brake pedal started to go down when waiting in red lights.
Internet seems to agree that this is caused by faulty brake master cylinder, so bought a new Raybestos 15/16" same spec as oem. This would be a nice oportunity to upgrade to 1" but man, over the years I have heard that the difference is in pedal travel not in stopping power, also the second hand 1" brake masters from dc2, preludes, etc... are around 20 years old so get a good unit can be a lottery. So no more headaches, new unit and call it a day.
Installation was easy apart from brake fluid is always messy, but as always, something happens, I bleeded the master on the bench before bolt it on the car as included instructions showed, all seemed ok as I go for a test drive, the car begin to brake by itself, what a **** show.
I re adjust the threading in the brake pedal fork and fixed!
old one
new one
I had 2 variants of gold paint in my front calipers, rear ones where ugly so time to a refresh.
I dissaembled all the calipers, brushed to bare metal and painted them, also replaced the boots that where broken.
E'spec front brake pads worn out, I loved them but this time I will try Ferodo DS2500.
Time to replace exhaust headers, old was cracked
Bought a 1320 Performance headers, pretty good quality.
I removed the brand plate because is better for inspections here.
Also installed new header studs, I thought that oem ones would cause me some trouble dissembling them, you know, if you broke one of them you're fucked. But all gone well and with the two nuts procedure they all come out easily.
Anti sieze for the O2 sensor
Test pipe
Final product
Last edited by DiSCLAiMER; 01-07-2016 at 08:40 AM.
I bought a s2000 ap1 cluster, it was a bargain so I couldn“t say no...
cluster is from a jdm s2000, the only difference with usa/europe version is that mph/kmh function is disabled, here we use km/h so there was no point to enable the speed converter but I wanted to do that because it's a first step to change the mileage and because as mid engineer as I am this things draw my attention.
First of all I need to thanks all the honda comunity that invested before and posted on the internet specific info about this, in special a guy know as Orthello from clubintegra.com, ectune and other forums where he post.
ok, let's go to the cluster, s2000 ap1 records milage and other things in a EEPROM, in a little 93c56 eeprom, other models and car brands use the same system.
So first we need to locate this eeprom, viewing the cluster from behind we need to take out 3 screws.
Once we get the cover off, we locate the eeprom here
Zoom on this mother****er
Ok, we need to use a willem programmer, mine's a GQ-3X from MCUmall (nice usb powered support ).
We don't need to remove the eeprom from the pcb, we can solder some wires to run to the willem like this.
Ok, going carefully with where goes every wire on the willem, we setup our software and read the eeprom content. I selected in my software 93c56B (16 bits) (important set to 16bits), I was able to read it a max speed (called "+2" in my case).
Ok, we get something like this
in red I marked the locations $5D and $5F this two locations need to be edited with a 00 (double zero) to enable the convertor. I strongly recomend to save a backup of this in a .hex file.
Ok, backup saved.
Let's change that positions. We open the .hex file that contains our cluster data using notepad
marked in red is the row that we saw before in the willem software, we need to change the green squares ($5D and $5F locations) by 00. Blue square is the checksum.
so, the full line is :10005000FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF50AF50AAE
we know that last two hex digits "AE" are the checksum of the line. What's checksum? checksum is a system to verify that the rest of the data of the line is correct.
We are going to modify our line changing the pair "0A" by "00" so the line without the checksum is
now we need to calculate our new checksum, the formula is add pair by pair hex digits of the line, do the NOT operand to the result, and finally add a 1. In our case:
As I said at the beginning, this is a first step to change de mileage to suit our swaps, I need more time to test it but like some people have done, it's possible, anyway hope that this D.I.Y help someone to enable the convertor.
Hi.
Nice post btw.
But i have another type of cluster, it might be a JDM, cause it only has a
mhp light, no kmh one on the display;
And the code is similar when u read the eeprom, should i try it??
So I put "all my effort on this" 🤔🤔🤔🙈🙈🙈, I remembered that I have also a 2002 cluster w both options already working, so i copy the report and, it's working 😂😂😂😂😂
So it has just mph light but it works, it's possible to change.
mileage done.
remembering from my last post mileage is saved in the eeprom from rows $C0 to $F0 so... how to know what hexadecimal numbers I need edit??
There's a formula that returns what you need to put in hex for a specific mileage in that rows, but....... it's boring.
The software TachoSoft' Mileage Calculator simplifies this operation, for example:
Now we only need to calculate the checksums like I do before, if I got this .hex and I wanted to change mileage:
and well, u know, burn it on to the eeprom and voilą:
Hi i have a problem i bought a tach "honda insight 2000" cluster for my honda civic but have mile /h when ai turn on the car and i nees KM/H when y turn on my car
09-27-2015, 04:00 AM
Re: Europe poorboy EG6
so started to unbolt things and got the carpet out.
, put some heat tape on the rear bumper to prevent plastic burn, as in the last trackday I had this problem.
).
Re: Europe poorboy EG6
