<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by defnu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh crap! i didn't even check! how can i tell the difference? i don't remember which one i ordered....we'll see.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The h22a water pump is stamped p13<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88ED8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So your going to put the motor in with the BS still in place?
I took mine out and slid the crank pulley inwards a 1/2" and have only a small amount of clearance, I can't imagine it without removing the bs and moving the crank pulley.... Also when you got your H2B kit did you also get the spacer for the slave cly.?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yah for real! I moved mine too and I have about 3mm maybe between the puley and the rail.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by defnu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i didn't get the spacer kit...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hit up Seth, the ef kits don't come with it, just tell 'em you did a hydro conv. and need it, should be cheap.

 

yeah, i'll hit em up...thanks! you plan on ever getting a hood? or even a jdm front?

 

Not with that mani he's not

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by defnu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you plan on ever getting a hood? or even a jdm front?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have plans on doing a "shaved" valve cover and switching to a Golden Eagle manifold then a sir "style" hood (usdm front) but not any time soon, unless someone wants to donate a hood and manifold

 

i'll donate a hood but you'll have to pick it up...

 

I'll keep that in mind

 

Update yur stuff!

 

I WILL....NEW RIMS?????? WANNA SEE??????? oh yeah, my phone's back up.

 

thevtechnician came by and helped out with sooooooooooooooooooo much. alot of things got done this past week. BECAUSE i didn't remove my balance shaft, i DID run into alternator and crank pulley clearance issues. without removing the balance shaft and moving pullies towards the block you HAVE to cut Or notch the frame rail AND pound the blood out of the framrail. i did. a messy job i did too. desperate times calls for desperate measures. i notched the frame rail like so.....
IF i could weld it wouldn't look so bad. so my plans are to leave it like this until i can afford to go all out with a full body work and paint job.

and here's my second attempt at dropping the chassis into the motor, lol





TA DA! it was EASIER to mount it in this order if motor is put underneath;
block side,tranny side, rear mount.

and this is how my interior and harness sits:



and i picked up these rims today from the yard!



they look kinda funky...ME lIKE iT! sorry for my weird taste.



Modified by defnu at 5:05 PM 8/19/2008

 

even with the frame rail kicked to crap, there STILL! was clearance issues. i solved this by using a 4 ribbed belt and utilizing the 1/2 inch over option from the innovative relocator. the belt is on the teeth furthest away from the blockside of the crank pulley and closest to the alternator side of the alternator pulley. for the top radiator hose, i used a flex hose sized to the proper length from auto zone. i think the part number was 1277 or 1233 but then again all it is is a spring loaded flexable coolant hose. my stock lower radiator hose was a perfect fit! and my stock radiator and fan fit! and the h22 headers bolted right up to my stock exhaust! now i need to modify everything to mount up my full race traction bars. i also have to convert the AUTO shifter box wiring to beleive it's in nuetral and park for eternity. much thanks to the vtechnician and 88ed8! for help, resources and mike that worked at SSR/parris engines for getting me interested in a better and cheaper than k swap alternative.

 

Man, that driver side frame is ugly
Anyways, are you going to drive it without welding up the frame, I'd imagine it's much weaker like that?...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by defnu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">much thanks to the vtechnician and 88ed8! for help, resources and mike that worked at SSR/parris engines for getting me interested in a better and cheaper than k swap alternative. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

pfff...if you saw the support behind the sheet metal....trust me, i do plan on getting the notches welded but it's going to be mostly a cosmetic reason. i just feel more comfortable leaving the balance shaft...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by defnu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just feel more comfortable leaving the balance shaft...</TD></TR></TABLE>
pshh, they are overated

 

They almost look like some old school super fins! What size are they? They would look real good either white or polished.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by defnu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">even with the frame rail kicked to crap, there STILL! was clearance issues. i solved this by using a 4 ribbed belt and utilizing the 1/2 inch over option from the innovative relocator. the belt is on the teeth furthest away from the blockside of the crank pulley and closest to the alternator side of the alternator pulley. for the top radiator hose, i used a flex hose sized to the proper length from auto zone. i think the part number was 1277 or 1233 but then again all it is is a spring loaded flexable coolant hose. my stock lower radiator hose was a perfect fit! and my stock radiator and fan fit! and the h22 headers bolted right up to my stock exhaust! now i need to modify everything to mount up my full race traction bars. i also have to convert the AUTO shifter box wiring to beleive it's in nuetral and park for eternity. much thanks to the vtechnician and 88ed8! for help, resources and mike that worked at SSR/parris engines for getting me interested in a better and cheaper than k swap alternative. </TD></TR></TABLE>

No doubt man! We're on for this weekend right?

Framerail is pretty scary!

 

man! clearance issues just keep self eliminating! early update in about five hours!

 

i've tried my best to get pics of my clearances but they suck!

here's a top view of the upper radiator hose and radiator fanclearance...



the Autozone part number....get it the zone!



here's my lower radiatior hose. if i wasn't so lazy, all i'd have to do is rotate the radiator end of it and the bends look like it conforms to the shape of the tranny.



...i thought it was my stock hose but it could've came off of my old siR setup.

not only did i have clearance with the stock headers but, it bolts on to my stock exhaust setup!















hers a few progress pics from last night.....

bolted my headlights down..


AND finished my fourth wire tuck on a rex...but who hasn't seen that? this is what it allowed my to bolt on after....



the rest of the front end!

i even have HOOD CLEARANCE! not cuts here!....yet



and with a firm pressure of two fingers...




my setup for the hood clearance was due to the hasport efb2 mounts + qsd kits + uncut valve cover + siR carbon hood AAAAAAAAANNNNNNNNNNDDDDDDD no oil cap you'll see my fix for that soon!

 

No oil cap lol! That cap is most of the problem with hood clearance

 

hello. my motor fired up with a jump and a broken distributor cap! THEvtecnician helped me prep it. still waiting on misc tasks to get completed before i put my axles and fluids in to drive! the full race bar is <U>when it comes to ease of install.</U> i didn't use the support things for it. i only have ONe wiring issue...the issue is my dimmer switch is now, i think, burnt out. but whatever it is that cause that to happen, causes the driving lights to come on. i don't know what that's about! help would be greatly appreciated! wherever the short is is connected to the open door warning beeper, taillights, corner lights, clock and ... i think thats it. sorry for the non picture update, i haven't had time due to me and my wife's anniversary mini trip to SF. oh yeah wek sos is

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by defnu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the full race bar is <U>when it comes to ease of install.</U> i didn't use the support things for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why was it hard to install and why not use the support thing?

 

well, it seems like the "support thingy" lacks support! it seems more like a back up to me. plus laziness did play a big role in my decision. BUT my reasoning for why i didn't use it isn't a justification for my laziness. it's more of the geometry on it. it does add "support" but isn't a definitive preventitave device that would ensure my heim joint won't break or flex. it would have to mount to two points on the arm and form a three point angle mounting system in order for it to ensure that it even adds "security". like this: heim joint&lt;arm. the mounting points to our arms obviously only uses one mounting point and every other traction bar mounts without one....plus i was too lazy to grind it down so i can mount it.... another thing is, YOU know how much one would need to grind off in order to make clearance for the other end.

 

I had to grind my front driver side lower control arm to make clearance to mount the bar under instead of on top the control arm for it to clear the crank pulley...






This is what I'm visualizing and according to the geometry of the equilibrium two points of support is better then one

 

that's a good way of looking at it but when tightened down, it looks like it'll only become a spacer!? i'm refering to the side of it that bolts down on top of the heim joint.

 

I helped him put the bars on and it really sucked! The piece that bolts to the bar was a little too wide to fit in there. They had to be hammered in! And the bolts that were supplied were too big to fit through the joints lol. Way overpriced in my opinion

 

well, i'm not complaining about the price, mainly the fittment. sorry for the gaps in updates. i normally order my parts from hondapartsautomotive.com because they usually stock what i order but where they ship from takes just a tad too long for my patience. then again i could be more patient. anyways, all i need now is the exhaust manifold nuts, valve cover gasket set, and distributor cap (i'm only sparking in three cylinders). SOOOOOO i ordered these parts from san leandro honda parts thinking it'll cost me 2 or 3 dollars more but they'll ship SUPER fast but not the case. in conclusion, my FIRST and ONLY purchase from slhondaparts gets a . hopefully i at least get what i'd ordered. i placed the order on 7/22/08 and they are now shipping it 07/30/08 without any call for notification of cross shipping. AND i've already spoken with the parts sales manager and he's definitely not trying to build any customer service skills.