Vtecthatcould

currently i got a 95 EG hatch current mods list is
B16a3
GSR transmission
b16 intake mani
gsr suspension all the way back (control arms, sway bars, struts,)
energy suspension bushings all the way through.
Generic CAI
half size radiator
gsr brakes
my weight reduction as of now consists of just front 2 seats, removed front and rear bumper support, all interior and plastic is gone dash is gone heater core all that gone, no PS/AC, (looking at cutting the doors, shaving metal and lexan windows after the cage goes in. also heard Ktuned rear trailing arms shave about 50 lbs off but theyre expensive as ****. the goal is 1700 LBS
fully gutted from top to bottom ( ive been asking a few buddies i know that weld and seeing if i can find anyone willing to weld in a cage, on a side note this will be extremely gutted mainly for track use)
i had bought this car before i knew too much about cars and after i had bought it 2 years ago i found out the motor is stolen . . . motor vin shaved off but trans is still legit so i am looking into storing the b16a3 block and keeping that as a last resort block . . . i had bought a blown up gsr from my uncle for 10 dollars . . . cylinder 1 has a huge crack but that seems to be it and the head is also unusable . . . but i have bnib ITR pistons from honda . . . i have been debating between b20v or resleeving the gsr block and building a poor mans type r . . . i do eventually plan to cruise this around and slay some street cars here and there . . . i have been leaning towards b20v mainly due to the cost to resleeve . . . cost has come into play i now have a kid on the way . . . so budget is key . . . and i know many of you build amazing cars on a tight budget . . .
my b20v build list so far
b20 block (unsure if i should look into boring and honing to 84.5 for the smoothness or rock the stock sleeve at 84) also 250 for a longblock from my local junkyard
golden eagle conversion kit
gsr trans
750-1000 cc injectors (rc/grams)
skunk2 pro 2/3 cams (some cam gears aswell)
possibly hondata
arp rod bolts,headstuds
manley H rods
YCP pistons high comp
port&polish intake and matched to the head
e85
dual bosch 044 fuel pumps
still unsure of my exhaust ( have a rusty knockoff)
micropolish/rebalance b20 crank
ACL bearings
skunk2 valvetrain (high comp)/ seals ( was also looking at the supertech)
also looking at replacing all the pumps and seals and gaskets
the goal here is
Budget - $5,000
HP goal - 240
hoping to possibly squeeze that out on that budget . . . thoughts? should i opt in to resleeve the gsr and boost? the racecar is not number 1 priority anymore as i have a child on the way any thought would be appreciated . . .
also looking at spray like a 75 shot on a b20v high compression i feel like you would have torque and power all the way through

Chance EG

Rather unfortunate you're on a GSR gearbox, a B16 trans or even better 98+ ITR trans with the 4.7FD would be great for you.

You're going way overkill on fuel pumps and overcomplicating it, and spending much more than needed. For an all motor build a single 255lph fuel pump will suffice with E85, just make sure the pump is ethanol compatible.

If you intend to rev the engine past 8500 or so I would also invest in a girdle setup. You could use the oil assembly (pickup, pan, main caps) from the blown GSR engine from your uncle and save a bit of money there on the installation. Golden Eagle makes a 3 way brace girdle, and there are also cheaper options on ebay. You will need to get the block align honed for a proper installation.

I'd recommend saving your money and not investing in sleeves for the engine. With that being said, I would consider using a B18B/LS block instead of the B20 simply because the stock sleeves on the B18 engines are better than the B20s, especially once the B20 has been bored out to 84.5mm. Not saying the B20 wouldn't work, but you'd only be making a minor sacrifice in cylinder bore and have a bit more security with an LS block.

Don't waste your money getting anything ported and polished. Make sure your intake/throttle body/intake manifold are port matched (just use a gasket & dremel with them off of the car), but don't waste your time/cash with the runner inlets or the cylinder head itself.

If you use the Nippon Racing or YCP B16B/CTR piston replicas, I think you'd get around 12.6 -> 12.8 compression with an LS or B20VTEC setup (pretty sure that's the most aggressive compression piston they make for the B's).

Unless you upgraded your intake manifold to something like an S2 Ultra Street, or at least a S2 Pro with a 70mm TB, I'd recommend sticking with the Pro 2 cams. With your compression ratio and the E85 fuel, you could probably tune the car to respond well to the Pro 3's, but I don't think it would be worth it if you stick with an OEM intake manifold.

bks84

iTrader: (9)

unless you already have dual 044's theres no need for them at the power youre shooting for.

i make 240+ on a single 255 on pump e85.

Vtecthatcould

i think ill be going with a LS block with the USDM ITR pistons. on a side note would im interested in nitrous . . . nothing extreme id like to just have the extra oomph incase i get into trouble . . . like a 50-75 dry shot.
this isnt a daily driver but will see some street.

Vtecthatcould

Update: buying a LS block from a buddy of mine. i intend to run my b16a3 head on the block with P73-AO pistons, ill be looking into S2 Pro2 cams. from there i plan on getting the valve train built along with new seals. and for intake i would be looking into port matching. i wanted to redo my clutch and flywheel aswell at this point would it be beneficial to look into a LSD maybe looking into a type r trans. after that i will be grabbing a new fuel pump and injectors im thinking 750s..
im trying to keep this under $5,000 for now including fuel management and tuning
im still shooting for 220
seem possible?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Not with ITR pistons, no. Those cams won't like that piston

Chance EG

Change your piston selection to B16B/CTR pistons (both YCP and Nippon make them) and then yes, seems possible.

I support the idea of trying to sell the GSR gearbox and getting a B16 or ITR gearbox instead, if possible. 750cc injectors will be fine, make sure they're E85 friendly.

Don't cheap out with the EMS/engine tuning. Get Hondata or Neptune RTP.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

If you're going through the trouble of that. Keep the GSR trans. You never know how bad the next trans would be. Just add a good helical LSD on top what you have, and keep going with the substitute pistons. Try out what you have first, then make changes as needed.

JRCivic1

This is a WISE suggestion. I agree.

Vtecthatcould

yeah i was trying to utilize the pistons i have already (P73-AO) and arent the pro 2 cams similar to ITR cams or are they the pro 1s? i was also playing around with the idea of getting a CTR/ITR cam on the intake side and using a spare GSR exhaust cam (should be similar to that of the ITR exhaust if im not wrong) yeah i was also looking at the Mfactory helical and throwing that in my GSR or ditching the GSR trans for a B16 trans and throwing the Mfactory in.
i think ill be going with the supertech valve train package also

Vtecthatcould

also thank you everyone on this so far all of you have given useful opinions and advice! great to see not everyone is an asshat.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

1. Again, Keep the GS-R. Throw in the Helical LSD from MFactory

2. Do not mix camshafts like that. you're not supercharged., and will not find any advantage (the GSR is not similar to the CTR or ITR). Pro2s and Pro1s are nothing like CTR camshafts. Only the Tuner 1 series is close to that. Check Skunk2's website so you know what camshaft belongs in the hierarchy.

3. Make sure you know which supertech valvetrain you plan to use. If you plan to use an aggressive camshaft later, you want the HD series (85lbs spring seat pressure). Most places that sell a Supertech "package", don't use the HD series as default. So, verify before you buy.

4. Those pistons don't make the compression needed to make that power, but can still be fun to drive. Keep the camshaft simple with a Tuner 1 and enjoy what you get if you must keep the pistons.

Vtecthatcould

dont need to use the pistons but its the budget friendly way

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Again, you've asked our feedback. We're telling you that those pistons will not work with the camshafts that are going to make that power level. Budget friendly or not.

Vtecthatcould

hey guys any of you guys into the h2b . . . im interested as stock for stock it would put more power out than my b16,b18
also seems to be decently cheap

lxrd_vtec

The general consensus seems to be that stock for stock and dollar for dollar, you'll make more power easier, with less spent, going the H2B route. There's a lot of nasty H2B set ups out there putting down good numbers both on the dyno and at the track. Cheap wouldn't be the term I'd use to describe it though, just less expensive. I myself a B/K fan so I personally have not built H2B, nor do I plan to.

Vtecthatcould

just kinda interested seems like a solid deal since im already B