hey guys, I just bought a 98 spec european itr,
but I have a weird problem.

When I drive my temperature gauge goes up and down, most of the time to the cold side. mostly it drops completely to C, and when driving it almost never gets past 1/4. I tried to warm the car up idling, but even then it stops heating up one line before the middle. so it never gets past the line before the middle of the gauge. also when I drive it has the tendency to drop really fast, it can completely fall down in less than one mile.

I just went to the honda dealership to fix it, new thermostat, new coolant, and I guess they flushed the air properly of my cooling system.
after that still the same problem..

I got no idling problem, car turns like a beauty. only thing I notice is the cooling fan pops on constantly. It stops for a minute, and then it turns back on for five minutes. even when the gauge is down I still have heat, not much but it still isn't really cold cold, but not really warm either. vtec kicks in fine, so I guess my oil gets to the right temperature.
car is completely stock, except for a CAI, but it is still in the resonator box, so cold air can't really reach it.

I try to flush my cooling system again tomorrow and check for leaks, but normally there are none, the dealership checked it all.

I'm getting crazy of this problem, can somebody help me..

 

hey i got same exact problem, but once you getting heat in your then you got nothing to worry about.

 

maybe, but I don't want to take a risk.. I searched months to get an original no accident white one, and I'm planning to spend 5k on it to make it a more powerful beauty. good itr's are rare in belgium, only +- 30-50 imported and after 11 years mostly crashed or drinking liters of oil

and the air isn't really warm so.. when my oil doesnt get to its best operating temperature, I will just destroy my B18C6-block in time.

I been searching a lot and 'till now I found out;
-bleeding of the cooling system was not good
-ECT-sensor ****ed
-ECT- gauge sending unit ****ed
-coolant temperature sending unit (?) ****ed
-wires of one of the above ****ed
-gauge ****ed (but don't think so)

that limits the possibilities

maybe helpfull to the rest of us with the same problem;









Re: Temperature needle problem. (RaWrZie)

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There are 3 sensors for temperature (depending on your car)

1) Fan thermoswitch- this should be located on your thermostat housing. Look at the lower radiator hose and follow it to the side of your engine block. There is a housing that the hose attaches to, there should be a brass bolt with a grey plug attached to it. This is to energize your fan when the water temp reaches the threshold

2) Temperature sender unit - this should be located on the passenger side of your head. This sensor sends the temp to your temp gauge on your cluster. This is the only plug that has a single wire. Should be yellow/green in colour

3) ECT sensor - this should be located right beside the temperature sender unit on the passenger side of your head. This sensor sends the ECU the temperature. This is the plug with 2 wires.

Again, depending on your car, one sensor may be on the back of your block... hope that helps

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...8&ThreadPage=1
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/temperature-needle-problem-2272275/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...+gauge+problem
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ooling+integra

 

Have a similar issue. My car will heat up normal at idle, to right before the 1/2 line, but after driving a mile or so, it begines to go down toward the C, when the car idles it gets normal, when I drive it, it goes down. It's hard to tell because sometimes the heat is hot as hell, on other times it's like the A/C is on, sometimes vtec will cross normal, sometimes it won't let it rev past 5900RPM...

 

Do you have a pyrometer? (not an air one, one on a multimeter that measures temp, or a temp probe of any other sort capable of up to 240degrees F, or whatever that is in cel) If so, warm the car up and check the temp of the radiator with the pyrometer at various points. If the car is running 180-220 and the temp gauge reads cold, I'd replace the sender. Also use the test method in the service manual to confirm that the sender is working. If the thermoswitch is bad, the fans won't activate, so that's an easy one to check for. They should be off for awhile then come on when it's warm (if left idling it will take a LONG time, a lot longer than you think it would, to warm up and activate the fans). I guess they come on at 185-212F. However, if the fans aren't working, I wouldn't expect for it to go cold, it'd be the opposite so I think you can safely eliminate that. Since the dealer just replaced the thermostat, I'd assume they did the work and that it's not the thermostat.

IMO it's going to be the gauge or the sender, likely the sender.

 

my OBD scanner will be arriving soon, so I can check the temperature @ driving mode.
but one tube on the radiator is smoking hot, the other tube is completely cold, so the thermo must be working. only thing I can suspect is the temp sender giving inaccurate readings, cause I'm pretty sure it's not the gauge.
after newyear I'll have it checked @ the dealer, and have the 2 sensors replaced. I'll keep this thing updated.

 

Did you fix your cooling problem yet?

 

If the car warms and then the temperature drop, especially when coasting in gear, the thermostat is almost always at fault. It is possible that the new thermostat is also bad. OP, did you ever find the problem?